IKOFLEX

[anthonym3]

I saw that you followed up with that you read again and saw that it was Tessar, but you probably read Carl Zeiss Jena the first time so it's worth to mention that the Novar wasn't a Carl Zeiss lens. Novar was originally a Hüttig trademark, and Hüttig was later absorbed into ICA, and ICA together with other camera makers later merged into Zeiss Ikon on the initiative of Carl Zeiss. Zeiss Ikon was an independent company, but of course related to Carl Zeiss. Novar and Nettar lenses were bought in from various lens makers, so they are not marked Zeiss. A few Zeiss Ikon cameras in the years after the war even used lenses from the Zeiss rival Schneider-Kreuznach.

 

[anthonym3]

JPD,thank you,every bit of information is welcomed and appreciated.

 

[absalom1951]

I have only seen that type with the focus lever on pictures. How is it to use? [/QUOTE]

The lever does the job very smoothly . Maybe the lever did not go over well with consumers so it wasn't around long ? It really doesn't take getting used to , you can go either up or down.

I have an Ikoflex with the Novar lens but it needs a lot of attention.

Not sure how to reply with quote , I'm not the brightest bulb on the string :}

 

[GRHazelton]

I have only seen that type with the focus lever on pictures. How is it to use?

The lever does the job very smoothly . Maybe the lever did not go over well with consumers so it wasn't around long ? It really doesn't take getting used to , you can go either up or down.

I have an Ikoflex with the Novar lens but it needs a lot of attention.

Not sure how to reply with quote , I'm not the brightest bulb on the string :}[/QUOTE]
I didn't know that there was an IkoFlex with a focusing lever! Decades ago my Brother had a Ricoh Diacord with two focusing levers, one on either side. Very convenient. I have a Minolta AutoCord with a focusing lever under the lens board. I find it more convenient than the knobs on my IkoFlex and YashicaMat.

 

[choiliefan]

The original Ikoflex "coffee-can" TLR has lever focus on the left side of the lensboard and is very easy to focus.

 

[anthonym3]

I have the same lens on a Rolleiflex Automat MXV and it's excellent. My gut feeling with such a low early serial number is it's an Ikoflex 1 850/16 Lps with a Prontor-S shutter. The Compur factory was badly damaged during the war and it was sometime before volume production resumed.

Ian

 

[anthonym3]

My IKOFLEX arrived today and already poses a problem,the shutter is jammed. It doesn't have the knurled wheel to reset the film counter,it needs to be checked through the red window. I had it working but might have set aperture or cocked shutter in wrong order. Anyone know how to get it working again?

 

[anthonym3]

My IKOFLEX arrived today and already poses a problem,the shutter is jammed. It doesn't have the knurled wheel to reset the film counter,it needs to be checked through the red window. I had it working but might have set aperture or cocked shutter in wrong order. Anyone know how to get it working again?

Crisis averted! I had removed the viewing hood to clean the ground glass and apparently did not realign it correctly,shutter is working.

 

[anthonym3]

Crisis averted! I had removed the viewing hood to clean the ground glass and apparently did not realign it correctly,shutter is working.

Crisis averted! I had removed the viewing hood to clean the ground glass and apparently did not realign it correctly,shutter is working.

Why would this camera have no film counter window or is it hidden somewhere on the body? As far as I can determine by he lens serial number 21499 it was made around 1951. My earlier model ll/lll has a film reset dial as well as a film counter window so this is very puzzling.

 

[anthonym3]

Why would this camera have no film counter window or is it hidden somewhere on the body? As far as I can determine by he lens serial number 21499 it was made around 1951. My earlier model ll/lll has a film reset dial as well as a film counter window so this is very puzzling.

Correction it was made between 1946 - 1951

 

[JPD]

Why would this camera have no film counter window or is it hidden somewhere on the body? As far as I can determine by he lens serial number 21499 it was made around 1951. My earlier model ll/lll has a film reset dial as well as a film counter window so this is very puzzling.

It doesn't have a mechanical counter, so you use the red window when you advance the film. This was one of the things that made the camera cheaper than the more advanced models.

Here is the instructions manual: http://www.cameramanuals.org/zeiss_ikon/zeiss_ikon_ikoflex_i.pdf

 

[anthonym3]

It doesn't have a mechanical counter, so you use the red window when you advance the film. This was one of the things that made the camera cheaper than the more advanced models.

Here is the instructions manual: http://www.cameramanuals.org/zeiss_ikon/zeiss_ikon_ikoflex_i.pdf

JPD,again I thank you for useful information

 

[anthonym3]

JPD,again I thank you for useful information

I had seen the manual but it was a bit confusing. It only mentions using the red window in order to start the film but does not explain that it is necessary for every exposure. I knew this had to be done however ZEISS could have been more explicit.

 

[choiliefan]

Do you have any pictures of your camera you can post here?
Might be useful for future reference.

 

[JPD]

I had seen the manual but it was a bit confusing. It only mentions using the red window in order to start the film but does not explain that it is necessary for every exposure. I knew this had to be done however ZEISS could have been more explicit.

It says on page 12: "After exposing, the fiIm must at once be turned on by means of the knob (5) until the next higher number appears in the red window (22)"

 

[anthonym3]

It says on page 12: "After exposing, the fiIm must at once be turned on by means of the knob (5) until the next higher number appears in the red window (22)"

JPD, I thank you once again. When I downloaded the manual I got only to page 15 and could not get further pages.There is no doubt a way to get more pages but at age 79 I am not super computer savvy.Here are photos that choiliefan requested

 

[anfenglin]

Here‘s some more info on the Ikoflex line:

http://www.tlr-cameras.com/German/Ikoflex.html

They sometimes have their model number stamped into the letherette somewhere around the taking lens.
There also are some transitional models as with all camera makers that worked before and after the war.

 

[anthonym3]

Here‘s some more info on the Ikoflex line:

http://www.tlr-cameras.com/German/Ikoflex.html

They sometimes have their model number stamped into the letherette somewhere around the taking lens.
There also are some transitional models as with all camera makers that worked before and after the war.

I have a transitional model ll/lll with a 75MM 3.5 TESSAR in fine working order but unfortunately with the dreaded ZEISS bumps

 

[outwest]

This is a good site for the various Ikoflex models. https://www.pacificrimcamera.com/buy/zeiss/ikoflex/ikoflex.htm Mine is a 2a with an Opton Tessar that is a killer lens.

 

[anthonym3]

I have purchased an AGFA BILLY COMPUR 105 4.5 SOLINAR lens serial number 50792 and have no idea the year made. Can anyone help?

 

[choiliefan]

The Compur shutter serial number will date it if the lens doesn't.

 

[anthonym3]

The Compur shutter serial number will date it if the lens doesn't.

I found a number on the shutter 0039820

 

[anthonym3]

I used the lighter fluid flush on the ikoflex 1,every shutter speed now works properly except for 1/10.It mostly fires closer to 1/50 except for about every 15 to 20 firing then it is still not firing at 1/10. Does anyone know why this is happening/

 

[Dan Daniel]

There is a pin that sets the escapement engagement. This pin can be bent back and forth a slight amount to fine tune the slow shutter speeds- 1/2, 1/5 and 1/10. It doesn't take much change in the position of this pin to throw the slow speeds seriously off. And when it is off, it is off for 1/10 most obviously. This is the first thing that I would check.

(The pin is not engaged for 1 second; this speed is set by moving the whole escapement.)

When you say that 1/2 and 1/5 are ok, is this from a speed checker or by ear?

 

[anthonym3]

By ear comparing it with a well working IKOFLEX ll/lll and a well working ROLLEICORD.