ahah I'm trying to do my best to learn it xD
I'm using a thermo-drum and before to load the chemicals I always check the temperature.
ahah I'm trying to do my best to learn it xDFlavia,
I expect that English might not be your first language, so I hope you don't mind if I tell you that this is a colloquialism that is very funny (in the circumstances).
The colour of the unstained part does look quite close to correct, so you should be feeling encouraged.
What procedure are you using to develop the paper?
Is it possible to start fresh. Also, it's important to keep the temperature the same. Variations in temperature will cause your color to shift.Yes finally I think I reached the right filtration but I think I have another problem right now... And I don't know if is about chemicals or other
. He was accustomed to people asking him what kinds of color he used in his own residence. It was all bright red. Why? Because his wife was Peruvian. As he explained it, to a Peruvian, red is their equivalent of a neutral, and she was in charge of color choices.
So maybe it's because it's too small! I didn't thought about thatI am concern about the size of your test strips. It helps tremendously to keep all variables as constant as possible...time and temperature to be sure, but also the square cm (area) of paper developed with the same ml (amount) of developer. That is why my example of a test 'strip' is a whole sheet of paper. The only thing changed between the test and my first print was the aperture and a slight tweak of a couple seconds.
Thanks. I take it that he complained to his wife that when he came home after a day of heart surgery and looked at the rooms' colour it was like being back at work. Same thing happened with a heart surgeon in a more expensive part of town. One he married a Peruvian woman, everything indoors got repainted red.
Looks like a problem that has to do with coverage of the chemistry, possibly with another factor involved as well (e.g. light fogging after incomplete processing).
I'm going to suggest something that may raise some eyebrows, but try developing in trays (instead of drums) at room temperature. Timing is not very critical; take a development time of 2 minutes for starters. Blix time 1-2 minutes; again not critical assuming the blix is fresh or adequately replenished. You'll find temperature is not extremely critical - if it causes visible shifts, they will be the equivalent of around 1cc or 2cc filter pack change (if that, even). All in the dark, of course. Agitate continuously; doesn't have to be very wild, just keep the developer moving across the paper. Use a stop bath of acetic acid (1-2% is fine) between developer and blix.
This would resolve most problems with uneven development. If this works, see if you can get it to work with drums as well.
I get the strong impression that drums tend to create more problems than they solve, at least for some people. But it may just be my preference for the simplicity of trays talking here
thermo-drum looks very similar to the dev-tec setup I use which works very well for me. I put the loaded drum in and let it dry-warm while I measure out the chemicals (60ml each of dev and blix for 8x10 one-shot). Dev for 50 sec @102 F, blix for 50 sec, then two water rinses (200 ml) about 30 sec each before removing the print and giving a final rinse under running water. Give the drum a quick wipe with a paper towel and it's ready to go by the time I'm set up for the next print. I get very even and consistent results.
I don’t think it’s needed. It’s bad for your health because some stabilizers contain formaldehyde.Do you use a stabilizer after the bleach?
Oh perfect! So finally I can avoid to use it. The temperature of water is indifferent?Stabilizer is needed in high-volume roller transport processing simply because wash time is insufficient. Everything is fed straight into the dryer. Even if you happen to use an automated roller-transport machine yourself, you have the option to manually wash the prints for a longer time in completely fresh water.
The kit I'm using (Arista RA-4 from Freestyle https://www.freestylephoto.biz/11814-Arista-RA-4-Color-Print-Processing-Kit-4-Liters) doesn't include a separate stabilizer. I think I read that a modern stabilizer (that replaces formaldehyde) is incorporated into the blix or paper.Do you use a stabilizer after the bleach?
Stop bath for how long? And the final rinse 2 minutes, right?Yes. But I recommend, prewash (plain water), dev, stop bath, briefly rinse again, blix, final rinse, then final extended washing of the print outside the processor.
You don't need to when working at room temperature.I want to try this too but I'm a bit dobious about how maintain the temperature with trays
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