How to supply external power to a flash?

[Chan Tran]

I saw they sell the dummy AA battery pack that you can put in the flash unit to power with an external power source. What I don't know is how to close the battery compartment cover. Does anyone have any idea?

 

[DWThomas]

I saw they sell the dummy AA battery pack that you can put in the flash unit to power with an external power source. What I don't know is how to close the battery compartment cover. Does anyone have any idea?

That could depend quite a bit on the details of the specific flash (and the adapter). It might be possible to find a spot where a small U-shaped notch on the edge of the battery door (or it's mating cutout) could permit wires to be routed out and make a connection. I admit to having low enthusiasm for attacking a recent model flash with my Dremel tool though!

 

[eli griggs]

That could depend quite a bit on the details of the specific flash (and the adapter). It might be possible to find a spot where a small U-shaped notch on the edge of the battery door (or it's mating cutout) could permit wires to be routed out and make a connection. I admit to having low enthusiasm for attacking a recent model flash with my Dremel tool though!

I have some 283, 285 Vivitars that were 'holed' in the battery compartment door, to allow a faux battery block (of wood), with long cords as contacts in the flash and the opposite end, wired to a power supply, in the form of a rechargable battety RC racing drone or a common photographers rechargable, portable battery pack.

If the hole bothers you, just fill it in with epoxy, putty, wood dowel, or a zillion other things easily employed to close up that door.

 

[MFstooges]

With current battery technology I don't see much reason for those battery pack. I had modified old Vivitar 283 to work with 7.4V Lithium Ion and the recycling time is just crazy. I just had to remember to give it a break after many full power flash to avoid overheating.

 

[Chan Tran]

With current battery technology I don't see much reason for those battery pack. I had modified old Vivitar 283 to work with 7.4V Lithium Ion and the recycling time is just crazy. I just had to remember to give it a break after many full power flash to avoid overheating.

I mainly want to run them on AC power.

 

[koraks]

Does anyone have any idea?

I've run my Canon digital camera off of AC for quite some time. The AC adapter came with a replacement battery cover with a cable feed-through. You could fashion something similar; either drill a hole in an existing cover and do something creative with a grommet and/or some hot melt glue. Or maybe print (have printed) a new battery cover that feeds out the cable.

 

[Chan Tran]

I've run my Canon digital camera off of AC for quite some time. The AC adapter came with a replacement battery cover with a cable feed-through. You could fashion something similar; either drill a hole in an existing cover and do something creative with a grommet and/or some hot melt glue. Or maybe print (have printed) a new battery cover that feeds out the cable.

I really don't want to make any damage to the flash. I can run them on NiMH and they work well with that but I want to power them with external power so that I can measure the current draw. Also I noticed that some flashes when the capacitor is fully charge they shut off and turn back on when the capacitor loses some voltage. Other flashes just keep drawing a low but significant current when the capacitor is fully charged.

 

[koraks]

If all you want is to do some measurements, I'd not bother with trying to close the unit. Maybe apply a little painter's tape across whatever wants to pop out to keep it in place for time being.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

That could depend quite a bit on the details of the specific flash (and the adapter). It might be possible to find a spot where a small U-shaped notch on the edge of the battery door (or it's mating cutout) could permit wires to be routed out and make a connection. I admit to having low enthusiasm for attacking a recent model flash with my Dremel tool though!

You and me both.

 

[Chan Tran]

Well last night looking thru my stuff I found a pair of old version of these alligator test clips which allow me to reach into the battery compartment and connect to the spring contacts inside.

Fluke AC220 SureGrip Heavy Duty Insulated Alligator Clips

Strong grip, insulated jaws for a tight grip on round screw heads

www.fluke.com

 

[eli griggs]

With current battery technology I don't see much reason for those battery pack. I had modified old Vivitar 283 to work with 7.4V Lithium Ion and the recycling time is just crazy. I just had to remember to give it a break after many full power flash to avoid overheating.

Modification of the Vivitar with a overrated (voltage) lithium battery seems to me a a risky business for just powering a classic flash unit where a battery pack supplying the correct voltage current from a rechargable unit does not overstep the already good enough flash specs.

Just as very fast lenses are rarely (for most folks) needed, ultra fast flash units do not mean a better shoot with Model, nor will it improve a set of a fully set long table of china, stemware, silver and the lighting of.

Likewise, nature shoots, of wildlife, insects, flowers, or fish in a stream or a snail on a rock face are more about the correct moment to fire the flash, though some occasional rapid firing of a flash is needed, for dragonflies or birds, most of the shoot will be about regular or classic photography, not how quickly the flash resets.

IMO.

 

[ic-racer]

My Rollei e36re flashes can be powered from AC, but still need the battery.

 

[Chan Tran]

Modification of the Vivitar with a overrated (voltage) lithium battery seems to me a a risky business for just powering a classic flash unit where a battery pack supplying the correct voltage current from a rechargable unit does not overstep the already good enough flash specs.

Just as very fast lenses are rarely (for most folks) needed, ultra fast flash units do not mean a better shoot with Model, nor will it improve a set of a fully set long table of china, stemware, silver and the lighting of.

Likewise, nature shoots, of wildlife, insects, flowers, or fish in a stream or a snail on a rock face are more about the correct moment to fire the flash, though some occasional rapid firing of a flash is needed, for dragonflies or birds, most of the shoot will be about regular or classic photography, not how quickly the flash resets.

IMO.

2 cell Li-Ion battery pack would give a nominal 7.4V but fullly charge the voltage is 8.4V. However, the voltage isn't too much concern but rathe the current capacity of the batteries whichi is more of a concern.

 

[ic-racer]

I found lithium batteries excellent replacements for Nicad and NiHm cells. Obviously, leaving the flash on will destroy the battery and the battery needs to be removed from the housing for a balanced charge, but the batteries I'm using cost about $5 (3-cell; 12.6v)

 

[Chan Tran]

My Rollei e36re flashes can be powered from AC, but still need the battery.

View attachment 376646

If the AC provide only the high voltage for charging the capacitor then you still need the batteries for it to work.

 

[eli griggs]

If the AC provide only the high voltage for charging the capacitor then you still need the batteries for it to work.

I believe the battery compartment only need a secure and safe 'bridge'.

Vivitar did make AC power supplies, which work just fine with the correct pairing of ac supply and flash, the 283 and 285 have different ac units

 

[ic-racer]

In the e36re, the AC trickles the battery, but there is enough current from the 'wall wart' to drive the voltage multiplier. So, it still needs a battery, even if the battery is dead. But the AC recycle time is actually slower than if the battery were fully charged.

 

[eli griggs]

Interesting, but I've just

In the e36re, the AC trickles the battery, but there is enough current from the 'wall wart' to drive the voltage multiplier. So, it still needs a battery, even if the battery is dead. But the AC recycle time is actually slower than if the battery were fully charged.

Interesting, but I've never noticed, using batteries or battery for rapid flashes for in-motion scenes, dancers, musicians, insects, etc.

AC supplies I've used for light stand interior shots.

It's interesting, on the whole, seeing and hearing the very many things other photographers do in their own approach to capturing an image.

I do so love film photography.

 

[AnselMortensen]

When I worked for a newspaper, I used an SB-25 with a Quantum Battery.
If I recall, the Quantum module came with some velcro strips to keep the battery compartment door 'sort of' in place for those folks who didn't want to file a notch in the door for the cable.

 

[MFstooges]

Modification of the Vivitar with a overrated (voltage) lithium battery seems to me a a risky business for just powering a classic flash unit where a battery pack supplying the correct voltage current from a rechargable unit does not overstep the already good enough flash specs.

Just as very fast lenses are rarely (for most folks) needed, ultra fast flash units do not mean a better shoot with Model, nor will it improve a set of a fully set long table of china, stemware, silver and the lighting of.

Likewise, nature shoots, of wildlife, insects, flowers, or fish in a stream or a snail on a rock face are more about the correct moment to fire the flash, though some occasional rapid firing of a flash is needed, for dragonflies or birds, most of the shoot will be about regular or classic photography, not how quickly the flash resets.

IMO.

Not for me. It's cheap and gave the result that I wanted.

 

[Chan Tran]

Not for me. It's cheap and gave the result that I wanted.

You said 7.4V li-ion battery what kind of cells do you use? 2 18650 cells?

 

[MFstooges]

You said 7.4V li-ion battery what kind of cells do you use? 2 18650 cells?

No. It was a battery for Nikon D70 that I had lying around. I added mic port on the Vivitar to connect the battery. Later I did make a proper lithium battery pack to insert to Vivitar battery compartment but I misplaced the flash shortly after.

 

[Chan Tran]

No. It was a battery for Nikon D70 that I had lying around. I added mic port on the Vivitar to connect the battery. Later I did make a proper lithium battery pack to insert to Vivitar battery compartment but I misplaced the flash shortly after.

Oh thanks. I have some 18650 laying around. I think I will try 2 cells and see. Last night I power my Vivitar 283 with an external power supply set for 6V and current limit to 5A. It's quite fast. I would want to see how many A the Li-Ion can provide.

 

[MFstooges]

Oh thanks. I have some 18650 laying around. I think I will try 2 cells and see. Last night I power my Vivitar 283 with an external power supply set for 6V and current limit to 5A. It's quite fast. I would want to see how many A the Li-Ion can provide.

If you care for the flash you may want to put voltage divider to cap pair of 18650 to 6-6.5V. I didn't care for mine so I just used 7.4V. Even with that small battery it lasts forever for a single charge.

 

[koraks]

put voltage divider

Not a divider; use a DC-DC buck converter. @Chan Tran knows; I'm not concerned.