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How to get grain-free black and white negatives?

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Let me repeat XP2 - zero grain.
 
How does XP2 act when processed in traditional B&W chemicals? Say Rodinal?

XP2 is a chromogenic film and intended to be processed in C-41 chemicals. If you attempt to process it in conventional B&W developers you will probably get thin, low contrast negatives.
 
In all seriousness, use cooler temperatures for longer times (68-75 F is good - if you run hotter, you'll really punch up the grain). Use more dilute developer solutions. Use fine-grain and grain-masking developers, like Pyrocat HD. And as mentioned before, use bigger negatives or print smaller. Expecting a 16x20 print from a 35mm negative to be grainless is like expecting an elephant to fit in the trunk of a VW Beetle.

Within the 18º-30ºC temperature range there's no increase in film grain at the higher end of the range reducing the time to compensate for the increased temperature, with one proviso the temperature must be kept constant throughout the process cycle including washing.

When I'm in Turkey I process at 27ºC as that's the water temperature, air temperature is usually higher, and there's no difference in grain size or graininess between those negative and the ones I shoot in the UK, that's with a variety of B&W films, Ilford, Fuji, Foma and Kodak.

However with some less well hardened films lower temperatures cause less swelling of the gelatin and at higher temperatures sudden temperature changes cause problems with surface artifacts (Kodak's term), it's also been termed micro or incipient reticulation, and cause graininess in prints and scans. It's purely a surface effect on the gelatin super-coat and sometimes also the anti-curl layer on the reverse of some 120 film, it doesn't change the actual grain structure.

Ian
 
You must be using some post production noise removal filters?
Looks more like @mindthemix shot 120 6x6 format... and these are real results, realistic expectations.

It illustrates the wise advice to shoot larger format if you want less grain. A very simple, straightforward suggestion that will give you those results.
 
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The idea that you can achieve totally grainless images is a fiction. Grain is inherent in the photographic process. You cannot escape it entirely. There are developers that produce finer grain but at the cost of lower resolution.
 
The idea that you can achieve totally grainless images is a fiction. Grain is inherent in the photographic process. You cannot escape it entirely. There are developers that produce finer grain but at the cost of lower resolution.



Technically correct, but I would challenge you to see any grain in an 8x10 contact print! Or for that matter, most enlargements from 4x5. If you want grainless, go to a larger format.
 
Don't stand so close to the print!

Hilarious!

"Grainless" simply means that your eye cannot resolve any grain in the print (there are always silver grains making up the image). This is achievable several ways, including the one mentioned above.

Grain-reducing measures (in no particular order):

1. Precise temperature control throughout processing, including washing.
2. T-grain film (T-Max/Delta)
3. Slower film
4. Larger film
5. Smaller enlargements/greater viewing distance
6. Grain-masking developers, i.e., staining developers like PMK of Pyrocat
7. Developer choice. "Fine-grain" high sulfite developers soften grain; others seem to produce finer grain.
8. Take off your glasses

Best,

Doremus
 
I like to point out to people that fuss about grain in a print. What you THINK is grain is actually the spaces between grains in the negative. You cannot see the actual grains in the negative; it is gone in the print. Then if I am feeling a bit peevish that day I might suggest they take up watercolors. :smile:
 
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Oh, man, I am trying to get smallest possible grain from a super 8mm film. for the other formats I am not really bothered much from the grain.
 
Oh, man, I am trying to get smallest possible grain from a super 8mm film. for the other formats I am not really bothered much from the grain.
Are you using Super8 film for enlarging or scanning? For projection it wouldn't matter much if the grain were present.
 
Are you using Super8 film for enlarging or scanning? For projection it wouldn't matter much if the grain were present.
I am scanning , digitising it,to movie files, and yes it matters a lot, as you can see from the scanning on top, its a big grain.
 
Are you using Super8 film for enlarging or scanning? For projection it wouldn't matter much if the grain were present.
Screen Shot 2017-03-14 at 10.31.46 PM.png
 
Thomas might be right. It also looks like it might just be slightly over-developed by the looks of the highlights. If so, that can also add to the large grain you are seeing.
 
Oh, Super8. That's a really tiny frame. Back in the day I could approach 16mm quality in S8 with Kodachrome 40 and exacting exposure. A lot of people assumed it was 16mm. But K40 is no more. The last S8 I shot was about a year ago, 7266 Tri-X. It's pretty grainy stuff, not a lot you can do about it. I have seen programs that reduce the perception of grain significantly in digital post-processing of MP footage. That's probably the way to go. I'm talking about moving pictures, not stills.
 
The idea that you can achieve totally grainless images is a fiction. Grain is inherent in the photographic process. You cannot escape it entirely. There are developers that produce finer grain but at the cost of lower resolution.

XP2.
 
OP
good luck !
i always liked grain, it makes photographs a bitmore interesting ..
but to each their own ..

john
 
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