Found 126 film and flashcubes under a shelf at home!

[Bronson Dugnutt]

I had to avenge the C-22 Kodacolor, so I exposed an ad-hoc load of Vision3 250D a bit earlier. It went in before some 35mm & 16mm, so the chemistry was fresh.

The results seem mushier than the b&w but I still like the rendering.

 

[Donald Qualls]

This C-22 Kodacolor had a silver based antihalation layer which would further complicate b&w processing.

You can get color images from that if you mix your own CD-3 based color developer, use C-41 bleach and fixer, and get a hexamine or formalin based stabilizing bath. I've heard of people getting useful development with unaltered C-41 at 80 F -- but the formalin or hexamine stabilizer is crucial for C-22 dyes.

The silver layer in that film, AFAIK, is actually the yellow filter layer below the blue-sensitive color layer. Careful treatment with Farmer's Reducer after B&W processing can reduce this layer's density with only slight loss of image silver.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

You can get color images from that if you mix your own CD-3 based color developer, use C-41 bleach and fixer, and get a hexamine or formalin based stabilizing bath. I've heard of people getting useful development with unaltered C-41 at 80 F -- but the formalin or hexamine stabilizer is crucial for C-22 dyes.

The silver layer in that film, AFAIK, is actually the yellow filter layer below the blue-sensitive color layer. Careful treatment with Farmer's Reducer after B&W processing can reduce this layer's density with only slight loss of image silver.

I tried a frankenstein C-22 process: CD-3/metaborate developer (minus the benzyl OH), hardening stop, ferricyanide bleach, regular fix. There was zero dye formation, even fog, from this 50+ year old film.

As you say, the stabilizer must be this sticking point.

 

[Donald Qualls]

the stabilizer must be this sticking point.

What I've read is that C-22 dyes don't become colorful until they've had that little interaction with formaldehyde. If you still have that film, a bath in Cinestill C-41 final rinse might fix it...

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

I just tried a dip into the hexamine-based stabilizer from a disused Arista C-41 kit to no avail. Presuming that hexamine was still intact (and is a suitable substitute for formaldehyde), this step probably needs to happen prior to bleaching and fixing.

I'm all out of C-22 film so I'll never know, but I don't feel too badly about it

 

[Donald Qualls]

this step probably needs to happen prior to bleaching and fixing.

Not to my understanding. This is called "Final Rinse" for good reason; it's also the wetting agent and antifungal, and should be the last bath for the film (equivalent to PhotoFlo).

It's also possible your CD-3/borate developer didn't develop anything (we can rule out exposure because of the pre-exposed frame lines and numbers on Kodak 126 products). No easy way to tell with the result you got.

 

[Sirius Glass]

View attachment 317616

I had no idea I had these, probably a yard sale a few years ago?
Film dated 1990, 12 Magicubes blue "X" type (the good stuff?!?)

How to process the 126, no idea!

Enjoy!!