Forte Polywarmetone Plus, but no warm tones.

[timeUnit]

I have to be careful with selenium toning though, for I find the paper becomes cooler, not warmer, with toning. I'd be curious to know if others see that effect.

I get the oppsite effect. In an eariler post, you can see the extreme results I get with selenium 1+9 for about 4 minutes. The print is actually brown, not brown-black. With two minutes the blacks stay black, and the low mids get a red-brown color. The paper splits, so it might not be everyones cup of tea.

 

[NikoSperi]

I get the oppsite effect. In an eariler post, you can see the extreme results I get with selenium 1+9 for about 4 minutes. The print is actually brown, not brown-black. With two minutes the blacks stay black, and the low mids get a red-brown color. The paper splits, so it might not be everyones cup of tea.

Yes, exactly my experience with KRST and Polywarmtone. Not my cup of tea, really. I'd be happier with a sort of halfway house between Neutol NE and WA...

Anyone know if mixing them work? 50:50 NE and WA all at 1:9?

 

[Mike-D]

Since the Forte warmtone is coated on a white base your prints will look less warm if there are a lot of light tones in them than if dark tones are dominant.

I got good results using homebrew D-52 which is similar to the old Kodak Selectolm, warmer than D-72 (dektol). Never tried Neutol.

Mike D