You need thisNope, it's not reagent grade, it's technical grade. Who knows what other stuff is in there. I'm aware of D67, I've used it in the past. It's not that D19/D67 is a bad developer in general. Fog can be a problem only when the Dmax of a film has a rather low value, as is the case of Fomapan R 100. So, perhaps if I used benzotriazole, I'd get a little less fog, so a bit more density. Fomadon LQR, being a PQ developer likely has some and is what is used as a developer in the kit.
The film was fresh, well within date, just bought off Fotoimpex. My process ran at 20°C, tank inversion was 5'' every 30'' for developers, the bleach was continuously inverted. I haven't tried PQ universal with this film, it was the first time I used it.Is the film expired? And if yes, how much is expired?
How it was stored?
At what temp do you run your process?
Constant inversions?
Have you tried Ilford PQ Universal?
Fomadon LQR isn't the same as the FD in the Foma kit.The film was fresh, well within date, just bought off Fotoimpex. My process ran at 20°C, tank inversion was 5'' every 30'' for developers, the bleach was continuously inverted. I haven't tried PQ universal with this film, it was the first time I used it.
If i had
a) bleached long enough
b) a bleach that didn't have a rehalogenating effect
then my minimum density would be better.
I see.@Alessandro Serrao Thanks for the links, they have some interesting raw chemicals.
@Raghu Kuvempunagar No, not necessarily. You see, this film has a uniform antihalation layer consisting of silver, but after FD there's a lot more silver on what will eventually become the highlights. I suspect whatever effect there is, is more pronounced in the highlights. And since you requested samples, well, here they are:
View attachment 258425
View attachment 258426
View attachment 258427
As I said before, these may look radically different at your monitor. The highlights may seem washed out, but they're salvageable. The last sample is a 100% crop of the second image, with very light sharpening applied. Grain is very fine as you can see. Some sharpness is lost when scanning.
If these scenes had been shot at EI125 to 160, things would probably look better. At EI100, some highlights were shifted to the toe of the characteristic curve, where contrast becomes progressively lower. As a result, the highlights lost some brilliance.I see.
What you're referring to, with those images, is something like a dull slide.
To me it looks like a problem with the bleach (rehalogenating).
I'd try a purer form of sulfuric acid and a purer form of permanganate. Plus I'd use only distilled water for the bleach stage and both rinses before and after the bleach.
Another valid source of chemicals may be this:
https://www.labotech2000.it/
and this:
http://moersch-photochemie.de/moersch/webroot/files/Preisliste_online_2018final.pdf
Tried it, but looks too ugly and is of no use...@Anon Ymous: thanks for the scanned images. If it is not too much of a trouble, can u take pic of the slides held against window light (or light table) with the phone camera and share the pic?
I think the claim is about the optimal density for projection viewing and not in general. Not just Haist several others have made similar assertions. I guess flare is an important factor to consider in the context of projecting slides on a white panel. Maybe there are other factors too which affect the experience of viewing slides projected.
Yes ,, I am speaking on the recommendations of (that patent) ,, I am not speaking from my head.Thanks. The sulfuric acid quantity isn't very important. Less can be used, but the bleach becomes slower while keeping better if I recall correctly. There's a patent posted by Lachlan Young somewhere, which describes this.
I understand.If these scenes had been shot at EI125 to 160, things would probably look better. At EI100, some highlights were shifted to the toe of the characteristic curve, where contrast becomes progressively lower. As a result, the highlights lost some brilliance.
For the record, I always mix my permanganate bleach with deionised water and my permanganate is reagent grade. My bisulfate on the other hand even looks a bit yellow.
Yes, but it may not be very easy to source. Meanwhile, I have some dilute sulfuric acid (battery electrolyte) that has some bits floating. It may not be pure, but it's worth a try. I can avoid the floating bits with a pipette anyway.I understand.
Will you try some purer sulfuric acid?
It's not advisable since ammonia is a silver halide solvent. You'll risk to lower DMax...Any idea what is the main rehalogenating impurity in hydrogen sulfate? If it is chloride that is causing rehalogenation, then you can try a 2 minutes rinse in 2% ammonia solution after bleaching to remove the chloride. A thorough wash before and after ammonia treatment is advisable.
It's not advisable since ammonia is a silver halide solvent. You'll risk to lower DMax...
It is still not advisable due to the excessive softening of the emulsion because of the permanganate bleach...Not really. @Athiril has gotten great results using copper sulphate bleach that uses ammonia to remove chloride. I've used the same method on several different films to get good results. Though bromide and iodide are also soluble in ammonia, it takes much more than a few minutes in 2% ammonia to see any significant loss in density. Bromide and iodide have much lower solubility in ammonia than chloride.
It is still not advisable due to the excessive softening of the emulsion because of the permanganate bleach...
Yes it will withstand a 8min permanganate bleach but I highly doubt it will withstand also a 2min ammonia dip...Isn't Foma 100-R sufficiently hardened to handle permanganate bleach? Foma actually recommends dichromate bleach for this film.
Yes it will withstand a 8min permanganate bleach but I highly doubt it will withstand also a 2min ammonia dip...
after a permanganate bleach?Hmmm.. never had any emulsion softening due to the use of 2% ammonia.
after a permanganate bleach?
I just tried another bleach, this time with sulfuric acid. This time the redeveloped film piece remained completely clear. The funny thing is, this rehalogenating effect didn't take place in previous attempts with Rollei Retro 80S, the leader remained completely clear. Any guesses why?I understand.
Will you try some purer sulfuric acid?
Please explain in more details.I just tried another bleach, this time with sulfuric acid. This time the redeveloped film piece remained completely clear. The funny thing is, this rehalogenating effect didn't take place in previous attempts with Rollei Retro 80S, the leader remained completely clear. Any guesses why?
There's not much to give details about. The sodium bisulfate bleach I used previously seemed to have a rehalogenating effect when used with Fomapan R100. The same bleach, when used with Rollei Retro 80S didn't seem to act this way. This film also has a clear base and it's easy to spot an increased Dmin. Every time I reversed Rollei Retro 80S, the film leader always came out crystal clear. That's what is weird in this case.Please explain in more details.
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