Fogging with Hypergon!

[Patrick Robert James]

Have you thought about "blackening" instead of paint? The added advantage of blackening is you can do it to a rough surface so there will be no reflections. Something to think about. If I were in your shoes that would be my first try.

 

[OrientPoint]

Do all of the copies of this lens (I am referring to this newly made version, not the pre-war German originals) have this problem?

 

[jonathanchli]

I do not understand why the manufacturer chose to use such a shiny finish for the star wheel, and all the gizmos in front of the lens.

If you are tired of constant re-painting, you can use Birchwood Casey products to chemically blacken brass, aluminum or steel. Better yet, contact the manufacturer for a proper fix. You have been working on the fix for months...

 

[ic-racer]

This did take a lot of work.
After 3 coats of different flat black paint, I stripped it, used a dremel grinder then metal brush to smooth out the dome and the transition to the screw.
I did not put Loctite on the screw this time.
I applied multiple coats of brown primer.
I used sanding wheel and think strips of sandpaper to sand smooth the cup shape so the area of the screw end makes a smooth transition.
Finally I painted it with Testors Flat Black brush paint as that seemed a little blacker than the spray paints I had tried.

 

[ic-racer]

After final sanding, just before paint.

 

[ic-racer]

Spinning test after final painting.

To answer some questions. Yes I had considered blacking or flocking, but would like to use this lens sooner rather than later, so I'm using what I have available now. Also, no matter what I use to make it black, I wanted the base of the concavity to be smooth first.

In terms of the manufacturer, I don't know, but I consider this a user modification. If other lens owners are having issues, I don't know, I want my lens to work the way I want it to work.

 

[ic-racer]

Other 'user modifications' to improve my lens:

I added a spring to the fan so that it pops off when the string is pulled and put a rubber bumper on the front of the camera where the spinner hits when it files down.

 

[ic-racer]

I increased tension on the aperture lever so it holds in place better by making a 'wavy washer' out of the original flat washer on the aperture plate.

 

[ic-racer]

I painted the aperture plate flat black (was shiny metal finish):

 

[ic-racer]

I put a handle on the lenscap so it does not fall out of my hand, seeing as the lenscap is the shutter:

 

[ic-racer]

Last set of images look good! Though they were done indoors. Still need to try it out side.

If I'm still having trouble, I have designed a special compendium shade to attach with magnets to the lensboard, to keep stray light off the spinner. Of course with such a wide angle of view, plenty of light can still hit the spinner, even with the shade.

 

[ic-racer]

Looking back on this whole situation, I'm pretty sure it was the Loctite around the screw that fouled the paint, making the inner surface irregular.

 

[MarkS]

That's some very impressive engineering you're doing. I look forward to seeing some of your successful photos!

 

[ic-racer]

For comparison this is a picture from the internet of a REAL Hypergon's spinner. I was impressed how smooth it was and tried to make mine the same.

 

[ic-racer]

Last set of negatives look good!

Now that I have the inside of the spinner nice and smooth, I might try the Black 4.0.

I did not rush right to that paint because, although it is darker than regular flat black paint (center figure) it is not a magical paint that makes black things disappear against a black background as youtoobers would want one to believe.

This image shows it best:

 

[Chuck1]

Glad to here the negs are looking good

 

[Ian Grant]

I painted the aperture plate flat black (was shiny metal finish):

View attachment 363494

I'm surprised the apertures are straight sided. The best Waterhouse stops or wheel apertures are usually tapered slightly at the front. The original Hypergons would have been painted with a lead based matt black paint, these paints are still used for highly specialist purposes, but here in the UK you need a special license and the appropriate safety facilities.

Ian.

 

[ic-racer]

Next project is to address the lens cap. It is made like no other I have ever seen. It is ridgid plastic. Every rigid cap I have uses velvet on the inner rim. In this case they used ridgid bumps on the inner rim. This cap is maybe ok for storage but not good for a shutter, due to the difficulty detaching and attaching.

My plan is a box, about the size of the lensboard, with a flocked lining, held in place by 4 magnets. Easy to remove and attach quickly.

The spring I added to the spinner assembly works great. The spinner pops off when released, even when the camera is pointed slightly upward. The originals had a spring there, but this was left off the reproductions, though the milled area for the spring is there.

One can see the original style spring in post #39 above. Looks to be held in place by a small rivet or screw.

 

[ic-racer]

These are not scans, per say. They are digital photographs of the negatives on my light table. I made them negative in the digital domain, so they might resemble a print.

The defect in the center is no longer present.

 

[ic-racer]

 

[ic-racer]

One if my first prints from this lens

 

[ic-racer]

It was the irregular transition between the screw and the spinner that caused the surface to be prone to reflection. Perhaps from the threadlocker or oil on the bearing tracking down the screw.

In its current state there is no threadlocker on the screw and I'm running the bearing dry.