C-41 is more colour correct than E-6. Orange mask has a lot to do with it.
Because of the nature of the materials available to us (primarily the dyes, couplers and pigments involved), a system involving a negative film and a subsequent positive final result (print or transparency) has a greater capacity to render colours accurately than a system that produces a positive result directly.
The orange mask is an important part of such a negative - positive system. There are other approaches, but the orange mask is probably the most effective.
If you get rid of the mask, the colour isn't as good.
Damn. In just five succinct words you nailed the entire worldwide issue.
Ken
If your C-41 looks like crap, something is wrong with your workflow, sorry. I don't scan myself as I can't afford a Flextight, flatbed doesn't give optimum results. I get my C-41 & E-6 scanned on a Durst Sigma professionally .
Sorry for OT.
[...]TEACHERS all say that scanning and then printing with an ink printer gives better and more detailed prints than doing it optically, the scanners can pick up better detail than printing color in the darkroom.
[...]
Well the teachers are talking bullshit. Optical printing vs scan to print is very, very subjective and the results have their own flavours, their own supports and detractors each and other alike; I doubt teachers know the nuances of one or both. I like both methods, but industry has "moved on" and now uses the scan to print method no beef about that, just what they are printing to that niggles me. Proofing to inkjet is a representation of a final print on some other media is ludicrous. I've known teachers to support the full-inkjet Monty too. The correct method is to scan and print to wet RA4 analogue ("digital to analogue") the same thing you would do in a darkroom! Unless you have high-end machinery and custom media, inkjet proofing is very imprecise, requires an entirely different approach and profiles very differently compared to RA-4 (gamut-neutral). Teachers really do need to 'go back to school' and come to grips with both analogue and digital methods of printing, including darkroom and digital or a mix of both (hybridised). Just belting the class with "everything is digital now!" is so wrong on many, many counts.
They aren't saying everything is digital, they said (and showed me examples) of scanned images that were ink jetted vs optically printed, and the ink jets were finer and sharper looking. Hey my job is to smile and nod and ask if I can still be taught color optical printing.
They also don't have the money for a lambda/lightjet type machine... Or they might teach that method.
I'm just saying in the new paradigm FILM Ferrania needs to make sure all their film scans well.
What are you talking about "color errors"?
Pretty sure if kodak fails, and Fuji fails, and forbid it FILM Ferrania fails...
There WILL be a color ilford
C-41 is more colour correct than E-6. Orange mask has a lot to do with it.
Not quite true. Or: half of the Story
E-6 films were designed for projection and C-41 for making prints. With the latter thus doubling a saturation-error due to dye malabsorbtion. Thus in twice the need for error compensation.
Yes, in times of scanning masked film can even take greater advantage from this.
The colours are far from correct.
Correct but the masked colours will normally be more correct cause the mask cancels a part of the error mechanism.
If you scan slide and masked C41 the mask should leave you a better RAW.
If your customer is a girl expect her to see more of the error than you can.
What does being a girl have to do with anything?
Ok you may not see them some people don't.
Use a non masked film or slide if you want.
A customer might complain is the only problem.
Some people are very sensitive to any variation.
If you are taking fashion shots a designer may want two shades exactly as the clothing material and even with a grey card it may be impossible, note girls may be more sensitive to hue...
You may have to read up how a tri pack film represents colour, eg Kodak had planned on a two colour film before kodachrome designers perfected the tri pack.
Note Id not tease about something important.
There are some people who like the colour from one digital sensor type over another.
You need a set of oils and canvas and a weekend...
I see what you mean now, but no one is shooting any of the work you're talking about on film anymore... That said there was one guy on the large-format for him who specifically was looking to test different films for the very specific project involving would tonality, he came to discover that the best film for him to shoot was actually fujichrome 64T ... He was shooting 11x14 and preferred that as he said it gave the best most accurate colors for the wood furniture he was shooting over all other color films available in 11x14 (yes it was even expired film (well kept) and still gave the best results, so your results may vary...).
To me, C-41 color is HORRIBLY inaccurate and blotchy, this is because it scans poorly on my V-750 and others have reported the same, the shadow areas in the black aren't BLACK they are a mix of green and red and blue blotchy spots. That's why I like E-6 because the black is pure black.
So to me C-41 isn't color accurate because of these random "color pixels" that appear in the shadow areas... Heck they are even in non shadow areas just not as obvious.
They look like "dead pixels" from a digital camera. It's ugly. So if they do make a C-41 I hope it doesn't have that either.
Hi
But if you do photos for $, the customer is correct. See last para.
Girls can see colour in a different domain from me some of them can recall over several days a colour balance that I can see just side by side but they don't need the side by side.
Not all of us have flat bed scanners. I use a dedicated 35mm one for proofing that is quick a few seconds about 40USD.
The 'grain' you get in C 41 film some people compare with digital noise, try a stop extra exposure with static shots, with XP2+ that will clear most shadow noise. Should be the same in colour. You would need to experiment.
Xp2+ is best at 50 ISO but will still 'work' at 1600... last if you only want an image.
My hot news chum asked me a sequence of film/RC questions half way through I say but you are using a DSLR.
Yes he says but 'the only way I get payed work is with a film portfolio to show I have not just borrowed a DSLR and might not have a memory card in it'.
A film slide of a model with a grey card over breeding bits in portfolio case might get you a job...
Then why can Rollie make a non-orange base film?
It is made for Photography from Airplanes where exact colour rendition is not a concern.
IMO no films are really "exact" in color, they all have a color cast / tone to them that is distinct. *shrug*
Not even digital is accurate, but yse all films are different, and none are 100% accurate, however what i like about film, (reversal film in particular) is that its own traits add to the image and id rather have the colours the film produces than what the real image actually should appear.
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