Sure the kit is optimized for Foma R 100, following it to the letter you'll have fantastic slides.
I know of one person who managed to get beautiful results out of Fp4+, Delta 100 using a modified Ilford reversal process. It's viable but with much trial and error. Certainly not using a ready made kit.Delta 100 is not a film optimized for reversal process and yet "it's handling of deep blacks and bright whites is unsurpassed through dr5".
@wyofilm, can you please tell me, where did you get the Foma reversal kit in the USA?Thanks for the information. It is good to know because I have a Foma kit on my shelf I've been waiting to try out. It looks like film and process have to be matched.
Can you tell me please, when using the Foma kit to develop film other than Foma R 100, say Adox Scala 160, do you use the same times and temps as if for Foma R 100? If not, does Foma provide target times and temps for non-Foma films, or is trial and error testing necessary to get acceptable results?The process is the Foma reversal kit, the only chemistry I use because it's cheap, very long lasting and reliable.
Only films designed to be reversed gave excellent results: namely Foma R 100, Adox Scala 160 and Adox Scala 50.
Other films gave only acceptable results (all regular Fomas - which dr5.com can't reverse at all, Rollei Retro 80, Rollei Superpan 200), some gave unacceptable results (all Ilfords, Rollei Retro 100 tonal, Agfa Apx 100).
@wyofilm, can you please tell me, where did you get the Foma reversal kit in the USA?
B&H has it, but they won't ship it, so no help to me.
With films other than Foma R 100 I still use the times and temps written in the instructions that comes with the kit.Can you tell me please, when using the Foma kit to develop film other than Foma R 100, say Adox Scala 160, do you use the same times and temps as if for Foma R 100? If not, does Foma provide target times and temps for non-Foma films, or is trial and error testing necessary to get acceptable results?
they have a map on there site listing dealers who have received at least some stock, MANY are in Italy.Ferrania P30 is impossible to buy in Italy. Nobody carries it.
Very interesting video here
Looks like Ferrania P30 may not be panchromatic at all! May also be native ISO more like 32. Worth a watch.
Very interesting video here
Looks like Ferrania P30 may not be panchromatic at all! May also be native ISO more like 32. Worth a watch.
That's exactly what I thought !Maybe his camera or developer has some type of issue. Density testing is closely tied to individual cameras and developer recipe/technique.
I've not experienced any ortho tendencies with P30 at 80 ASA. This chart is from P30 in Adox Silvermax developer, 80 ASA.
Maybe his camera or developer has some type of issue. Density testing is closely tied to individual cameras and developer recipe/technique.
I've not experienced any ortho tendencies with P30 at 80 ASA. This chart is from P30 in Adox Silvermax developer, 80 ASA.
Very interesting video here
Looks like Ferrania P30 may not be panchromatic at all! May also be native ISO more like 32. Worth a watch.
Looks like Ferrania P30 may not be panchromatic at all! May also be native ISO more like 32. Worth a watch.
Ah, I argued about it not being really panchromatic some years ago, as soon as the first P30 tests were available.
Hear, hear!
Then could we not work with the film under a red safelight if that is the case? Have you tried that?
No, i didn't say it was ORTHOchromatic. I argued that it's sensitivity wasn't similar to the otther panchromatic films, that is, that there was much less sensitivity in some colors.
Honestly, this was readily apparent when the first P30 pictures were uploaded. You can see the same with Fomapan 100: the spectral sensitivity is so different to other films, it gives an instantly recognizable 'look'.
I think that it's exciting that it's an extremely fine grained film and that DR5 loves this film under their reversal process, where it gives ISO 16.
EI 16 is pretty much what I use to obtain a decent, fully exposed negative.
Getting back to its colour sensitivity, I looked at a colour chart photographed with P30. It does look like its spectral sensitivity drops sharply off in the yellow region. In my book, this is like an orthochromatic film. It's definitely not panchromatic..
Yes, I sort of agree... I say it's not panchromatic. But IMO to be "orthochromatic" as we know it, it should have zero sensitivity to the red color.
I didn't understand why they say this is an ISO 80 film. But in any case I don't think a quasi-orthochromatic film can be classified under the regular ISO scale, because the sensitiviry would depend on the light source.
I wonder if p30 might have unusual reciprocity response - something that might yield a different speed when used with relatively short duration electronic flash.That is my video, and the camera had no effect on film speed because the film speed was determined with a sensitometer and densitometer. The results were backed up by which bracketed (1/3 stops) negative produced the shadow value identical to the Tri-X negative. The lighting was a 5500K Profoto strobe with a soft box.
Ortho is more blue sensitive, so theoretically at least, the yellow would appear darker than the other two. In this particular video, my skin tone (which is reddish) is darker than the Tri-X, and the light blue shirt is lighter. I don’t recall from memory if the yellow patch of the color chart is different than Tri-X.
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