Film Ferrania p30

Adrian Bacon

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I use a Jobo, it’s continuous rotation at 24 degrees C (75F). I’d prefer replenished XTOL, but can do straight or diluted XTOL, straight or diluted D76, HC110, or Rodinal.

I process film for other people so would really like to work out the dev time for ISO contrast and speed for the replenished XTOL, but in a pinch can do other developers or do it in a Paterson tank.
 

twelvetone12

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Voilà, I finally made it to take a photo of the negatives. At the end of the day I wet print all my images, the p30 image on the right is not going to be easily printed. You can see basically the transparent shadows and the blocked highlights. These photos were takes just seconds apart.
 

mnemosyne

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The Ferrania negs look underexposed and overdeveloped for sure. The Acros neg looks quite good to me. Going from the density of the highlights in the central part of the 2nd negative, I don't think it is underdeveloped.
 

Scott Micciche

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mnemosyne said:
The Ferrania negs look underexposed and overdeveloped for sure. The Acros neg looks quite good to me. Going from the density of the highlights in the central part of the 2nd negative, I don't think it is underdeveloped.
Click to expand...

I agree. I've not had a negative come out like that in 7 rolls so far using 3 different Nikon cameras and 5 different developers.
 

twelvetone12

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I don't know what to think too. The last 3 rolls have been a disaster, but I have had no problems with other films in the same cameras/developer.
Some time ago I made a couple strips to test p30 in rodinal, at 80, 40, 20 and 10 iso for 8, 10, 14 minutes. (See attached image, not the best scan but you should get an idea). I was expecting my negative more or less as the bottom left one (80iso, 14 min), a bit contrasty but overall ok. My favorite combination was at 20 iso @ 10 minutes, but since people were getting nice results at box speed I hoped I could get some too.
 

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Alan9940

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@twelvetone12, I feel your pain as it sounds similar to my initial experience with P30. I shot my first roll at EI80 and developed it in D-96 per the Best Practices document; soot 'n chalk results--anemic shadow detail and blown highlights. Then, I decided to get serious and do some sensitometric testing which revealed that EI40 provided the correct Zone I exposure of 0.10 over fb+f. My next roll was to determine proper development time/temp/etc with D-96. I finalized on using D-96 @ 1:1 which I haven't seen mentioned, anywhere. I didn't go back and check for correct Zone I when using the developer at 1:1 so I guesstimated that either EI32 or EI40 should be close enough; someday, I'll run the tests, again, to verify.

To sum up, I got the best results shooting at EI40, placing important shadow areas no lower than Zone III, and developed in D-96/1:1 @68F for 6 mins with continuous agitation (12 inversions per minute.)

Don't give up! It's a quite beautiful film, once you get it locked in.
 
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FILM Ferrania

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warden

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Thanks Scott and Ferrania too. Interesting points about Ph and tap water. I have no idea what mine is, so I'll stay on the safe side and use distilled for my one final roll. Make more film asap!
 

Scott Micciche

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jawarden said:
Thanks Scott and Ferrania too. Interesting points about Ph and tap water. I have no idea what mine is, so I'll stay on the safe side and use distilled for my one final roll. Make more film asap!
Click to expand...

My home tap water measured around 7 and had a TSD varying between 300 and 450ppm. You can find measuring devices that are not too expensive, just make sure whatever kit you purchase, that it has a calibration method.
 

Trask

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In Scott's article, he specifically does not try pyro. I'm attaching two pictures made on P30 and developed in 510-Pyro. The shot of the fence is actually taken with an original half-frame Olympus Pen, the other with a Vivitar Series One 28mm f/1.9 on a Nikon FE2. The grain is very, very fine.
 

Scott Micciche

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I like the tonality of these.

Have you submitted the technique here? Dead Link Removed
 

Punker

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A couple weeks ago I shot a roll at ISO 50. Developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 10 mins (4 mins off the recommended developing time), agitating 10 seconds per minute.

Negs were much better than when I did 14 mins. Still extremely contrasty. I scanned it with a Pakon and moved the contrast slider to 0 before export to be able to have anything resembling normal contrast. Adjusted thereafter in Photoshop. I'm ok with the most of results. Some scenes couldn't be helped. Grain was barely there- even with Rodinal.



 

Trask

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Scott Micciche said:
I like the tonality of these.

Have you submitted the technique here? Dead Link Removed
Click to expand...

I had not, but have just done so. I'm also trying P30 in replenished UFG, but that is of less interest as UFG is no longer available on the market. Too bad, it's a very nice developer, and pulls a bit more speed out of P30 -- I'd probably shoot it at ISO 125 or 160 for UFG processing.
 

Scott Micciche

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wblynch

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DaveTheWalker

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That's astonishing. Some of the best results I've seen on p30!
Thanks for the pics.
 

Scott Micciche

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Thank you guys. I am very pleased and was skeptical after reading the book by Grant Haist, but aside from the strong odor, I'm pleased for an AIO solution. The 500ml bottle will do about 4 rolls of 36 exp (135).
 

lantau

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When I bought my enlarger in 2015 it came with a lot of ancient goodies like old Agfa paper. There are also a few proper glas ampules of Tetenal Neofin Blue and Red. One day I will have to try them out.

The packages must be from the 60s. The documentation lists times for various films: Adox, Ilfords Pan F, FP3, HP3 and HPS. There is Perutz, which I never heard about.

Anyway the documentation lists developing times for Neofin Blue and Red. The listed Ferrania Films are P24, 27, 30, 33 and 36. In case anyone has tried/would like to try Neofin Blue with P30 I'm going to give you guys the data. I don't know if the developer changed over the years.

Some remarks from the docs: Neofin Blue is low contrast, and should be perfect for P30. Most samples I've seen are quite contrasty. Another note is that Neofin requires rather short exposures, they recommend reducing exposure by 0.5 to 1.5 stops, compared to the usual exposure (but weren't DIN/ASA half the value of today, back then?). Anyway, they say the exposure should be 'just enough' for best results. So maybe ISO80 will be slow enough with Neofin?

The time for P30 at 20°C (1 ampule diluted to 500mL) is 15 Minutes (Blue) and 9 minutes (Red). If you want to develop two films in the tank simultaneous the times change to 18 and 12 minutes, respectively. Times should be extended by 25% for 120 film, btw. Was that a common practice with rollfilms in the 60s?
 

Old-N-Feeble

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(images removed from quote)

Those look just about perfect to me... excellent detail shadows to highlights. This film has really nice tonality when exposed and developed properly.
 

Scott Micciche

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Old-N-Feeble said:
(images removed from quote)

Those look just about perfect to me... excellent detail shadows to highlights. This film has really nice tonality when exposed and developed properly.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you like them. This appears to be a developer that gives us quite a bit of leeway for contrast control.
 
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