Fed Up With JOBO!

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Pieter12

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Jobo recommends rounding the corners: "Then round slightly the corners of the film. The rounding should be about 1/4" (6 mm) or less. You may find fingernail clippers useful for rounding the film end."
 

Sirius Glass

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Jobo recommends rounding the corners: "Then round slightly the corners of the film. The rounding should be about 1/4" (6 mm) or less. You may find fingernail clippers useful for rounding the film end."

As Pieter points out, rounding the corners of 135 and 120 films cures many problems. I learned that at the then APUG when I first was guided to JOBO processors in 2007.
 

mshchem

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Rounding corners make it easy to slip film strips into printfiles (after processing and cutting into individual strips)
 

john_s

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Dan's comment about humidity is important. Also, having dry hands, really dry. Do some laundry by hand, then rinse well and dry and your hands will be really dry.
The only times I've had trouble have been in humid weather or when I've become hot and bothered with frustration, a vicious circle.
 

DeletedAcct1

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I am sick and tired of my JOBO developing tanks!!

Years ago, I switch from my classic Nikor + Hewes system to a more modern system. I went with the JOBO 1500 system instead of the Paterson Super System 4 primarily based on two factors:

1. The ability to easily “double up” rolls of 120 film with the JOBO.
2. The reputation of the JOBO system as being relatively leakproof.

Both of these ended up being false!

I just developed two rolls of 120 film in my JOBO 1520 and it tool me almost an hour to load both rolls onto the plastic reel! Almost 60 minutes of cursing and swearing as I try to nudge the very thin, very wide roll of 120 film on to the JOBO reel and constantly having to back off and try again. I’m no novice either! I’ve been loading reels in changing bags since 2014 … nearly 8 years.

And then when developing the film, the damn JOBO 1520 leaks all over the place!! Now I got fixer all over my kitchen!

I don’t understand all the love the JOBO gets here on the forums. Yes, the quality of the German craftsmanship that goes into manufacturing the tanks & reels is high. But that doesn’t matter because the design of the system is fundamentally flawed.

Unless you’re already invested in one of their color processors, you’re better off going with literally any other brand.

</rant>

I agree. Jodo are outrageously expensive and genrally they aren't worth while the extra bucks imho. Better are Paterson and AP made tanks, they equally aren't leak proof but they cost substantially less for what they offer.
 

ic-racer

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My improved loading success by having the factory cut end first may be more to do with the perfect 90 degree cut than the corners.

To state another way, a blind cut to remove the tape-end, would not load as well, because the cut is not perfect 90 degrees, irrespective of the corners rounded or not.
 

Craig

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Jobo reels don`t seem to age well. I had some 2500 series reels, and like others here found them impossible to load. I bit the bullet and bought new, genuine Jobo reels from Fotoimpex and they are much easier to load. Never as easy as a Paterson though.

Previously, I could get a 35mm film about halfway onto the reel before it would jam, with the new reels I can get an entire film onto the reel. Perhaps Jobo used a plastic that shrank with age and use?
 

Sirius Glass

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As Pieter points out, rounding the corners of 135 and 120 films cures many problems. I learned that at the then APUG when I first was guided to JOBO processors in 2007.

Clipping corners helps with Nikkor, Hewes and FreeStyle stainless steel reels.
 

rduraoc

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I've had much better experiences with reels from AP then from Paterson or Jobo. And the AP development tank is also way better than the Paterson. No experience with steel reels, so can't compare.
 

Agulliver

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My Jobo 1520 was manufactured in the very late 1990s and languished on a shelf until i purchased it in 2003....and has since had 21 years of use in my hands. Never had any issues with the tank or the reel. I later purchased a second hand reel which is *much* older and it works fine.

I don't think there's any issue with reel age as such. Possibly with how well the reels have been looked after?
 

markaudacity

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If there's no reason, then why does it seem like many people have problems loading them? Maybe they require a technique that is not intuitive, a method that must acquired. Could it be that their design makes loading them actually hard to master?

No no, you misunderstood. I wasn't saying Jobo reels aren't hard to load (they are), I am saying there is no design reason for them to be this hard to load, given that the plastic reel was already perfected. The indented part of the track creates the problem it purports to solve, namely, the corner of the film catching on the radial ribs.
 

mshchem

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I've found practice and repetition is the key to any reel. Changing bags (ordinary) were really not designed for loading spirals. A cool, dry darkroom is ideal.
 

brbo

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I must be doing something wrong as I've never ever had a problem loading any film on Jobo reels. As long as they are dry.

Paterson auto-load "ball bearing" reels on the other hand...
 

mshchem

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I must be doing something wrong as I've never ever had a problem loading any film on Jobo reels. As long as they are dry.

Paterson auto-load "ball bearing" reels on the other hand...

The ball bearing works until they rust. Need 316 SS bearings. I am hooked on Jobo
 

MattKing

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The ball bearing works until they rust. Need 316 SS bearings. I am hooked on Jobo

I'm usually using the AP/Samigon/Arista Premium clone Paterson reels, and wiggle the ball bearings before loading each film. They work fine.
 

Pieter12

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The ball bearing works until they rust. Need 316 SS bearings. I am hooked on Jobo
I have never had any rust problems, maybe you should try drying with a hair-dryer when done. On the other hand, the ball bearing will get stuck. I have made a habit of freeing up the ball bearing with a paper clip or pencil tip before loading.
 

mshchem

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I have never had any rust problems, maybe you should try drying with a hair-dryer when done. On the other hand, the ball bearing will get stuck. I have made a habit of freeing up the ball bearing with a paper clip or pencil tip before loading.

Biggest issue is that the reels are 40-50 years old 😊. I've never had problems loading Paterson reels, used them for decades before getting a bunch of used Jobo stuff, which I enjoy. I love darkroom stuff
 

Pieter12

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Biggest issue is that the reels are 40-50 years old 😊. I've never had problems loading Paterson reels, used them for decades before getting a bunch of used Jobo stuff, which I enjoy. I love darkroom stuff

Nothing lasts forever. New Patterson reels cost $15 or so. But after 40-50 years, your tanks etc probably need replacing anyway.
 

mshchem

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Nothing lasts forever. New Patterson reels cost $15 or so. But after 40-50 years, your tanks etc probably need replacing anyway.

I have so many tanks, I've sold many of them to beginners. I found 6 new in the box I bought during the closing of my all time favorite store, University Camera. The early Paterson reels from the early 1970's (when Paterson started US sales) were made with some sort of material that didn't age well, I've tossed them out years ago. The Super tanks with the large lid were a great improvement over the System Four tanks. Paterson (I believe Donald?) was a genius, and the system of accessories still available today are fabulous.
I have Paterson trays in every size that's been made.
 

mshchem

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I just went down dug into my tote of Paterson stuff. I need to take some stuff to my guy who runs the 2nd hand store. Holy Cow so much stuff!
 

abruzzi

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I'm surprised at te comments about Paterson tanks leaking. Is that with the current tanks? I've never had even a drop squeeze out of my tanks. I run my thumb all the way around while puching down, then I push my palm down on the lid while lifting an edge of the lid to "burp" it, and create a negative pressure inside the tank. After than, no leak at all.

(I don't use the Paterson reel though, instead I use AP reels with the wide guides which fit the Paterson tank just fine.)
 

mshchem

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I'm surprised at te comments about Paterson tanks leaking. Is that with the current tanks? I've never had even a drop squeeze out of my tanks. I run my thumb all the way around while puching down, then I push my palm down on the lid while lifting an edge of the lid to "burp" it, and create a negative pressure inside the tank. After than, no leak at all.

(I don't use the Paterson reel though, instead I use AP reels with the wide guides which fit the Paterson tank just fine.)

The leaking of the old System Four tanks was bad. Super System Four tanks fixed the leaking, as you mentioned, burping the tank, per instructions is required.
Jobo tanks take it to the next level and allow the lid to expand to accommodate any air pressure increases.
 

Agulliver

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I must be doing something wrong as I've never ever had a problem loading any film on Jobo reels. As long as they are dry.

Paterson auto-load "ball bearing" reels on the other hand...

+2

I've always used mine in a dark bag, and not an especially large one. I do wonder if it's simply a case of some people getting on better with one system compared to the other. The Jobo reels are easy for me with 120 because the film is, by definition, cut straight. 135 I do usually end up snipping the leading corners with scissors inside the dark bag. But then the film loads easily. One tip I do have is to keep a bit of pressure on the film edge just little after the part of the spiral where you load it. I hope that makes sense. It helps the film find the next bit of spiral groove.

As for Paterson System 4, they leak but not terribly. They just leak more than a Jobo. I have no concept of how a Jobo could even be persuaded to leak.

In the end, they all do the job. Choose the one that you feel works for you.
 
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