I'm following this thread with interest because I've been thinking about picking up a Jobo 1500 or 2500 for inversion processing of B&W film.
I'm curious, if the plastic Jobo reels can be problematic, is there a reason more people don't use Hewes (for Jobo) steel reels in their Jobo tanks?
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I thought those little ball bearings only helped with 135 film? They are designed to fit into the sprocket holes.
The easiest to load of all the 120 reels I have tried is the plastic Samigon reel that fits the Paterson tank (and the Plastic Samigon tank.)
In my opinion, the Jobo reel system is junk.
I have some 2500 series reels and I have never been able to load a 120 on them either. I can load a Patterson in seconds, been using them for 35 years and it's so easy. My reels are clean and dry, the humidity is very low in my darkroom and I have tried it with fresh film that is well in date to minimize curl - nothing has worked.
Oddly, if I try to load a processed and dried B&W film it will load on a Jobo reel, but I have never been able to load an unprocessed film successfully without kinks and creases. In my opinion, the Jobo reel system is junk.
The expert drums are wonderful for sheet films, but for 120 and 35mm I've gone back to processing by hand in Patterson tanks; they work every time.
I am sick and tired of my JOBO developing tanks!!
Years ago, I switch from my classic Nikor + Hewes system to a more modern system. I went with the JOBO 1500 system instead of the Paterson Super System 4 primarily based on two factors:
1. The ability to easily “double up” rolls of 120 film with the JOBO.
2. The reputation of the JOBO system as being relatively leakproof.
Both of these ended up being false!
I just developed two rolls of 120 film in my JOBO 1520 and it tool me almost an hour to load both rolls onto the plastic reel! Almost 60 minutes of cursing and swearing as I try to nudge the very thin, very wide roll of 120 film on to the JOBO reel and constantly having to back off and try again. I’m no novice either! I’ve been loading reels in changing bags since 2014 … nearly 8 years.
And then when developing the film, the damn JOBO 1520 leaks all over the place!! Now I got fixer all over my kitchen!
I don’t understand all the love the JOBO gets here on the forums. Yes, the quality of the German craftsmanship that goes into manufacturing the tanks & reels is high. But that doesn’t matter because the design of the system is fundamentally flawed.
Unless you’re already invested in one of their color processors, you’re better off going with literally any other brand.
</rant>
I have recently returned to developing film, after over a decade of not shooting at all - and my experience has been the opposite of yours!
Previously, I used nikkor steel tanks and hewes reels, for both 135 and 120. I managed to find my old tanks and reels while getting supplies ready, and I found them to leak badly. I sprang for a Jobo 1500 tank and the only time it has leaked was due to user error (I failed to ensure the lid was on correctly). Otherwise, it has worked like a charm, as advertised.
The steel reels, on the other hand, have been somewhat of a disappointment. Some brands of film have been fine, but with others I’ve managed to lose two rolls; one that i could *not* get to load correctly, and another that ‘jumped’ the spiral, and did not develop correctly where it was touching itself.
I have switched to the jobo plastic reel for my 120 films, and I am very pleased with the ease of loading. I have not lost a single roll since - the tip to trim the corners befo re loading was very helpful.
I have found it a little easier to load the Jobo reels with 120 by rounding the corners of the film with a cutter used by scrapbookers. But Paterson reels are still easier to load because they have a little ball bearing that pulls the film along as you rotate the reel sides. Just make sure the ball bearing is not stuck before you load the reel. The Jobo lid won't leak if properly closed--sometimes a pain--but the Jobo tank is much easier and faster to fill and empty than Paterson. Neither system is ideal in my mind, I end up using both.
You probably have residue on the reels. Every now and then I clean my reels and tanks with bleach. Toss some bleach in there then fill with water and let it soak. I've had my JOBO 1500 tanks and reels for close to 30 years now. The reels are still whitish even though I use staining developers. Film goes on like butter....
If the tank is leaking out the top then take a piece of fine sandpaper and go around the plastic where the lid attaches to knock down any burrs. That should solve the leaks. And you do know that after you put the lid on you push the center of the lid down, right?
Do you know what grit of sand paper you would use? I wondered about doing something like that myself.
The problem is after that. I try to gently load the film onto the reel, and it will move smoothly for 2-3 inches. But then it will jam. And I have to back it off an inch, and try again. And the further on the reel the film advances, the more difficult it becomes to load! To the point when, if I’m trying to load two rolls, the first roll becomes almost impossible unless I “force” it. And yes, this is with a bone-dry reel.
Do you know what grit of sand paper you would use?
…
I can't load 120 on to steel reels - period.
Fascinating!
I can’t load 120 on to plastic reels. Impossible!
Hewes and LPL 120 stainless reels are super easy.
I found that instead of securing the film-end in whatever lock the reel provides, that it is much easier for me just holding the film-end with my thumb for the first turn and wind the spool from there.
I originally learned to do 35mm on Paterson reels and although I now prefer Hewes (and LPL) I still think that Paterson is the most economical and easy way to start. (Just make sure the reels are clean and dry).
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