Double-X Film

[ColColt]

Now and then I like to experiment. I looked at the results of Kodak's 5222 Double-X film and thought I'd give it a try as I liked most of what I saw. So, I ordered a couple rolls of 24 exposures from a place called Film Photography Project. Two rolls with shipping was about $14.35. Now, to research for developers. I understand Diapine and HC-110 get the nod a fair amount of times.

 

[Jon Buffington]

Working good with hc110 for me.

 

[ColColt]

I've read even D-76 is a good choice. Lacking the love some have for it, I may try some ID-11.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Everyone's method is a bit different however a good starting point would be HC-110 EI = 400 8.5 m @ 21c.

 

[Adam W]

I used HC-110 1:49 (Essentially dilution E) EI=250 10 min @ 20C. One roll so far, but results were pretty good.

 

[frobozz]

I meter at 400 and develop in ID-11 (should be the same as D-76) 1:1 for 10 minutes, and get really really good results.

Duncan

 

[ColColt]

I don't know the exact speed of the film but seems it's 250. That's probably where I'll start as that's what I use with other 400 speed films.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

I don't know the exact speed of the film but seems it's 250. That's probably where I'll start as that's what I use with other 400 speed films.

Eastman 5222 is designed to be shot at an ISO of 250D, 200T and developed in Kodak D-96 to produce a lower contrast (gamma) than still films. If you want normal contrast then rate it at 400 and use a standard developer like D-76 or HC-110. So you may have to do some experimenting.

 

[darkosaric]

Rated at 250 in Rodinal (times from digitaltruth):

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[Gerald C Koch]

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, ...I

It would be nice to have an obvious means for deleting a thread without resorting to a typesetter's ruse. Like push this button.

 

[ColColt]

Since I have HC-110 and ID-11 on hand either may work well. We'll see.

It would be nice to have an obvious means for deleting a thread!! Like push this button.

Why would you want to delete it?

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Since I have HC-110 and ID-11 on hand either may work well. We'll see.



Why would you want to delete it?

Comment did not apply.

 

[nworth]

Kodak publishes a data sheet:
http://motion.kodak.com/KodakGCG/up...s/Camera_Films/5222/Resources/5222_ti0299.pdf

D-96 replace D-76 as Kodak's standard motion picture film developer. It is fairly similar, and D-76 should give good results. From looking at the data sheet, I suspect 5222 is an especially high acutance film, since the modulation transfer function runs over 100 percent over much of its range.

 

[ColColt]

Up until I started researching this film I had never heard of D96. I feel sure that's not a pre-packaged developer like D76, however. I do have ID-11 as a comparable developer and think I'll try it first.

 

[frobozz]

Yes, D-96 is expected to be mixed on-site in large quantities from the component chemicals at the big film labs... but Kodak gives you the recipe for it here:

http://motion.kodak.com/KodakGCG/up..._en_motion_support_processing_h2415_h2415.pdf

I find D-76 (or in my case, ID-11) to be a dandy substitute without all the hassle.

Duncan

 

[ColColt]

I find D-76 (or in my case, ID-11) to be a dandy substitute without all the hassle.

Sounds like a plan.

 

[ColColt]

I've found you can also get his film in 100' rolls. I've never done bulk loading before so, how would you go about getting that type of packaged film onto cassettes without exposing it to light or getting scratches?

 

[MattKing]

The easiest way is to buy a bulk film loader and some re-loadable cassettes.

This link shows what to do with a Lloyds type loader: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-a-35mm-film-bulk-loader/

In that article, there is also reference to the Watson style of loader.

The Lloyds style wastes less film (less back end trailer), but uses a felt trap, and it is therefore necessary to be extra careful about cleaning and maintaining the felt in order to avoid scratches.

The Watson style wastes a little more film, but uses a closeable gate that won't scratch film.

I have both styles.

 

[ColColt]

$50 is not bad for the Lloyd's from Freestyle. I'd hope there was decent instructions with it.

 

[ColColt]

I just watched a YouTube video on how to load film. Looks like a real PITA to me and room for lots of mistakes in destroying over $200 worth of film.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

I just watched a YouTube video on how to load film. Looks like a real PITA to me and room for lots of mistakes in destroying over $200 worth of film.

If you have a room that can be made completely dark or have a changing bag I really don't see how you could ruin the film. You open the loader. Then open the film container and move the film to the loader threading it thru the then replace the loader's c

I just watched a YouTube video on how to load film. Looks like a real PITA to me and room for lots of mistakes in destroying over $200 worth of film.

Actually it is quite easy. You need a room that can serve as a temporary darkroom or a changing bag. Watch the film again and rehearse what you need to do. Do this a couple of times and you should be fine.

 

[MattKing]

I just watched a YouTube video on how to load film. Looks like a real PITA to me and room for lots of mistakes in destroying over $200 worth of film.

It would be best if you shared the Youtube link. It could be a really bad place to learn from!

 

[ColColt]

I may not have picked the best video to watch but it was the first I ran across. I do have a dark room for loading exposed film in my Jobo so that's no problem.

 

[MattKing]

I may not have picked the best video to watch but it was the first I ran across. I do have a dark room for loading exposed film in my Jobo so that's no problem.

That is a video of someone who does not use a bulk loader. There are a few people around who do it that way, but basically that is the HARD way to do it.

The only reason to do it that way is if you are the type of photographer who shoots many different types of bulk film, and don't want to have a separate loader for each.

Here is a link to the instructions that used to come with the Lloyds version: https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/images/products/media/39335_1_lLoyds_Filmlader_Anleitung.pdf

 

[ColColt]

That doesn't look too bad. Unless I'm missing something though, looks like the very end of the film in the cassette will have been exposed to light while loading it with the tape for maybe 2-4 exposures.