I recently developed an incident light meter for Android (actually my second one) and works very well. The Android SDK only provides integer lux values so a phone cannot be used for an enlarging meter.
Its hard to actually go from Ilford's data sheet to useful times, because the way they measure light (to determine paper speed) may not match your measurement setup at all. I suspect their ISO(P) values are based on measurements w/o a contrast filter and exposures /w a contrast filter, but there are so many extra variables that your own results may still not line up.Thank you guys for the replies, your comments are very helpful. I'm going to look into Ilford's RC paper specs and see if I can get useful times.
I was reluctant [to purchase the Darkroom Automation meter] because they use an order form.
My experience was very good. As Matt King pointed out, Darkroom Automation is operated by Nicholas Lindan, who posts here on Photrio.How was your buying experience/shipping times?
Most purchasers just send an email and pay with PayPal. The order form is for figuring shipping & handling or charges for upgrading a product. Some people do send in the form with a check using, gasp, first class mail.
Meters are now made to order and take 2-3 weeks to ship.
Meters are $94, the Pyro model for metering pyro negatives is $134. In both cases S/H for domestic Priority Mail shipping is $12; international first class air parcel shipping is $32.
I did a lot of experimentation with using an Android phone as an under-the-enlarger incident light meter several months back when I was trying to see if I could use it as a quick-and-dirty way of calibrating the PrintSizer app I was working on at the time. I'm pretty sure I got floating point results. The real problem I had, however, was that whatever filtering Android did before giving me the data was effectively a showstopper. Basically, any change below a certain threshold would be ignored and not passed back through the API. Of course the variations in low light levels that are kinda important for enlarger usage fall in this range.
For the use case of a camera light meter you're working with a lot more light, so this isn't really an issue.
I recently purchased [the Darkroom Automation enlarging meter] It measures EV, where EV 0 is defined as the exposure that produces D-max on Ilford RC IV paper when exposed for one minute...
I need to correct an error in my posting quoted above. From the manual (http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/eminstructionsj1.pdf), a reading of 0.00 is the light intensity that will produce full black on Ilford MGIV RC paper in 1024 seconds (not 60 seconds).It measures EV, where EV 0 is defined as the exposure that produces D-max on Ilford RC IV paper when exposed for one minute.
I really see no need for a self-made meter because there are some very good darkroom meters on the market.I've been experimenting building my own light meter for darkroom printing. Idea is to get the time to a "ballpark" and maybe reduce one test strip in the process. I've been using digital light sensor which should have "light ranges from 188 uLux up to 88,000 Lux".
For example on my Fujimoto G70 on f2.8 aperture on 50mm nikkor lens, distance 450mm, I get lux values ranging from 0.066 to 0.8 lux.
However I'm struggling how to process this information. If I convert this information to EV and assume paper "film" ISO is about 8, I get totally wrong exposure times. Let's just throw that the EV is -2 at that 0.6 lux. That gives 30 seconds exposure time on f2.8 at film ISO 100. Multiply that to whatever "paper ISO" you want and you end up to many minutes exposure time, which is totally wrong.
Is there a problem that I'm measuring illuminance and I should calculate luminance some how?
Any insights how to use lux meter for darkroom printing would be really appreciated
Datasheet for the sensor I'm using: https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/TSL25911_Datasheet_EN_v1.pdf
I really see no need for a self-made meter because there are some very good darkroom meters on the market.
I really see no need for a self-made meter because there are some very good darkroom meters on the market.
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