• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

DIY Ferric Oxalate Synthesis for Kallitype

Lutheran Cemetery Angel

H
Lutheran Cemetery Angel

  • 0
  • 0
  • 21
Dystopia

A
Dystopia

  • 1
  • 0
  • 40

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
202,944
Messages
2,847,938
Members
101,550
Latest member
Paris-Belle
Recent bookmarks
0
My pleasure. As someone who has not yet had a chance to make Kallitype prints using powdered Ferric Oxalate, I would be interested in knowing, from your experience of working with it, if there are any noticeable differences in the exposure time, contrast, and colour tone.
 
My pleasure. As someone who has not yet had a chance to make Kallitype prints using powdered Ferric Oxalate, I would be interested in knowing, from your experience of working with it, if there are any noticeable differences in the exposure time, contrast, and colour tone.

I'll be taking a look at that very thing, shortly!
 
Nice video. I, too, like the tone of the DIY version best.

Just a note about your comment regarding the respirator... the concentration of CO2 in air is about 0.04%. The breath you exhale has roughly 100x that concentration of CO2.

Thus the amount of CO2 added by this small scale synthesis is completely negligible even in a small enclosed space such as your darkroom.

Furthermore, a typical dust/particulate or even an activated charcoal respirator will not remove CO2 from the air you take in.
 
Nice video. I, too, like the tone of the DIY version best.

Just a note about your comment regarding the respirator... the concentration of CO2 in air is about 0.04%. The breath you exhale has roughly 100x that concentration of CO2.

Thus the amount of CO2 added by this small scale synthesis is completely negligible even in a small enclosed space such as your darkroom.

Furthermore, a typical dust/particulate or even an activated charcoal respirator will not remove CO2 from the air you take in.

Thanks for the info. All I had on hand was the respirator, so better than nothing...maybe. My fan does a pretty good job sucking air upwards, so I probably would have been fine going without a respirator... But then again, I like sounding like Darth Vader... 😄
 
Like several of my printmaking friends in India, I was looking for a simple procedure for synthesising Ferric Oxalate for use in the Kallitype process as importing Ferric Oxalate was both complicated and expensive. So I explored several methods to make Ferric Oxalate at home for use in the Kallitype process. Pretty soon I realised that some of the well-known methods for synthesising dry Ferric Oxalate are cumbersome and not well-suited for the low volume users like me. Also, dissolving dry Ferric Oxalate is a pain taking a lot of time and effort.

After some trials, I arrived at the following simple process that allows me to make 20% Ferric Oxalate solution from scratch in about 15 minutes:

Distilled water: 30 ml
Oxalic Acid (Dihydrate): 12 g
Sodium Carbonate: 9.9 g
Ferric Nitrate (Nonahydrate): 25 g
Distilled water to make: 75 ml

Mix Oxalic Acid in distilled water and stir well. Not all of it will go into solution, but that's Ok. Next add Sodium Carbonate in small amounts to the mixture and stir well. Carbon Dioxide will be released with every addition of Carbonate and the solution will fizz. After all Carbonate has been added and the mixture has been stirred well, you get a milky white solution. Now add Ferric Nitrate and stir well. A green coloured solution forms. Top it to 75 ml by adding requisite volume of distilled water. Store the solution in a dark glass bottle tightly stoppered. When kept away from light and in reasonably cool temperature, it stays good for over three months.

The solution thus synthesised is meant be used in the Kallitype process in place of 20% Ferric Oxalate solution. I follow the Kallitype process delineated by Sandy King in his Unblinkingeye article. At 1 ml / A4 sheet, this procedure gives you enough Ferric Oxalate solution to make ~75 A4 sized prints. Of course, one make only as much sensitiser as needed for a working session as it takes not much time to make the desired volume of sensitiser from scratch.

Purists will rightly point out that the solution contains Sodum Nitrate along with Ferric Oxalate. But that doesn't do any harm to the printing. I and my friends have used Kallitype sensitiser made using the above method successfully and are quite happy with it. If you try this method, let me know how it worked for you.

If we don't top up the solution to 75 ml, the volume is about 55 ml after mixing all the ingredients. This is 1.36 times more concentrated solution of Ferric Oxalate than what is generally used in Kallitype. Such a concentrated solution could be of independent interest to some.
 
This indeed is super helpful recipe and Raghu has been kind enough to gift me samples to try.. A sample Kallitype [Gold + Selenium toned] is attached with my post so that you all can also assess the range..

1768394677115.png
 
Thanks @Debanjan for both trying out the sample I shared and posting your beautiful print! Much appreciated. DIY process of making imaking FO solutions is quite simple as you can see from Andrew's lovely end-to-end demonstration. I hope you'll try it yourself in the near future and share your experiences.
 
Raghu,

Does the Oxalic acid in your formula require any particular purity level? 99.2% is readily available and cheap, 99.6% is a bit more, 99.9% higher still, and then there’s reagent grade….
 
Steve,

I use 99.8% purity Oxalic Acid because it is easily available and quite cheap here but 99.2% should also be fine I think. From what i know about the impurities in > 99% Oxalic Acid, none of them are in a quantity that can cause a problem. But I would be keen to hear from our chemists what they think about this.

B&S has attractively priced Oxalic Acid which I believe they use for their own synthesis of powdered Ferric Oxalate. They don't mention the purity level though.

You may want to first make only a small volume of FO (say 15 ml) and see how it fares.
 
If we don't top up the solution to 75 ml, the volume is about 55 ml after mixing all the ingredients. This is 1.36 times more concentrated solution of Ferric Oxalate than what is generally used in Kallitype. Such a concentrated solution could be of independent interest to some.

I can report that Mr. Kuvempunagar's recipe for Ferric Oxalate works perfectly for Pt/Pt printing. Compared to my years old, carefully stored powdered ferric oxalate from B&S, it fares better: better D-Max and graduation, judging only by my eye.

I used it about an hour after prepared, WITHOUT toping the resulting 50mls I got from the procedure to 75ml. This should be about 27% as preconized by most (the only exception I know of is Ian Leake, who has his own, a bit more complicated procedure to manufature Ferric Oxalate, that yields directly a 20% solution, that he reportedly uses for Pt/Pd printing).

Thank you very much for sharing this very valuable information Mr. Kuvempunagar!.

René U. Villarreal
 
Last edited:
I can report that Mr. Kuvempunagar's recipe for Ferric Oxalate works perfectly for Pt/Pt printing. Compared to my years old, carefully stored powdered ferric oxalate from B&S, it fares better: better D-Max and graduation, judging only by my eye.

I used it about an hour after prepared, WITHOUT toping the resulting 50mls I got from the procedure to 75ml. This should be about 27% as preconized by most (the only exception I know of is Ian Leake, who has his own, a bit more complicated procedure to manufature Ferric Oxalate, that yields directly a 20% solution, that he reportedly uses for Pt/Pd printing).

Thank you very much for sharing this very valuable information Mr. Kuvempunagar!.

René U. Villarreal

Hello @renevich, very nice! I'm glad it worked well for you in Pt/Pd printing process. Thanks for reporting your experience. Encouraged by it, I did a quick test myself and made a small Palladium print using DIY Ferric Oxalate. The result is indeed quite pleasing.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom