Diffusion Transfer Printing ("Polaroid" peel-apart) recipes

[alecrmyers]

The state of play is that I have a single combination of film, developer and receiver paper that produces good positive images.

To summarize the things I'm still working on, or would like to find:

A developer that uses more traditional thiosulphate/phenol-based chemistry, which would be more accessible.

A stripping layer that helps residual developer peel off the positive more cleanly. At the moment the very thin layer of developer that remains can crystalize and produce white powder or haze on the surface of the print (salting out). This can be prevented by rinsing or wiping the print, but it would be nice to avoid that need.

Alternatively/additionally a volatile silver solvent, or one that works at a lower pH than uracil/thymine and other cyclic imides, which would reduce the solids left on the surface of the print.

If anyone wants to help with these, that would be very welcome.

 

[richyd]

Indeed, you have accomplished amazing results for one person that what work very well. I have had good results from the material and would be quite happy to use what you have produced up to now. I did make up some developer to a partial recipe you published earlier in the thread using regular development ingredients but the result was weak and yellowy.

I don’t have the resources now to pursue, either in chemistry (my knowledge is over 40 years forgotten) nor in space and equipment. I can make up my own developers to known formulae but that’s about it. A serious health issue has re-surfaced as well so am on treatment again which will impact my time for projects.

I must say I didn’t notice much of a residue on my prints but having said that I just tried rinsing a few of them and yes it is noticeable. But working in a darkroom and having to rinse the paper is not a problem. More worryingly is that with the papers I coated the image will rub off under water.

Going forward it depends what your goals are. Do you want to create a full peel apart product and get others to help with the practicality of the mechanical side of that.? Or just create the product formulas for others to do their own thing. For myself I would be quite happy to use your current developer, it works well and lasts a long time.

 

[alecrmyers]

Indeed, you have accomplished amazing results for one person that what work very well. I have had good results from the material and would be quite happy to use what you have produced up to now. I did make up some developer to a partial recipe you published earlier in the thread using regular development ingredients but the result was weak and yellowy.

That needs more work from someone. I'm still working on it, but more hands will help.

More worryingly is that with the papers I coated the image will rub off under water.

If you wait approx 24 hours after coating the silica, it forms a hard waterproof coating. If you use the paper right after coating the silica isn't set and will wash off easily. The image tone is also better after at least a day of drying.

Going forward it depends what your goals are. Do you want to create a full peel apart product and get others to help with the practicality of the mechanical side of that.? Or just create the product formulas for others to do their own thing. For myself I would be quite happy to use your current developer, it works well and lasts a long time.

I'd like to have sets of recipes that span the gamut of the well documented technologies that Fuji and Polaroid used.

 

[Qebs]

Here are some links regarding Polaroid Coating.

The first mentions these chemicals in the coating liquid:
Isopropanol/Isopropyl alcohol, 5-15%
Zinc acetate dihydrate, 2-5%
Glacial acetic acid, 3-7%

What is in the Polaroid print coater? - Photo.net B&W Photo - Printing & Finishing Forum

Discuss black and white photography, from film to finishing, with the members of Photo.net.

web.archive.org

Photoengineer makes two comments here and PVC glue is mentioned:

What's in a Polaroid print coater?

I looked up the MSDS for the print coater goo, and got the following info: Isopropanol/Isopropyl alcohol, 5-15% Zinc acetate dihydrate, 2-5% Glacial acetic acid, 3-7% However, not only are these percentages VERY approximate, but the MSDS is not required to list "chemicals present in the...

www.photrio.com

The MSDS:

Wayback Machine

 

[alecrmyers]

Thank you - that's very good to have for reference.

I haven't noticed any of the symptoms of requiring a coating on any of the prints I've made, and I have a batch of original Polaroid print coaters thanks to a generous Photrio member - which don't improve print quality when I've tried them, so for now a print coating doesn't seem to be a priority, for anyone who's intending to try this.