Different tanks for different chemicals?

[jcn]

I was wondering if anyone uses different tanks/kit for different chemicals?

I started developing B&W and just used the same inversion tanks, measuring cylinders, stirrers and thermometers for everything - Rodinal, ID11, DD-X, D76, you name it...
When started developing in C41, I used the same equipment I had been using for B&W and noticed no adverse effects.

I then read that E6 and C41 should be used with different equipment to avoid cross-contamination. So I bought a different cylinder and tank just for E6.
At some point, however, I mixed them up and used the dedicated E6 tank for C41, and vice-versa... Again, did not see any adverse effects.

I am always really careful and thoroughly wash everything after using it, and never develop with more than one process in any one session... Could that be the reason I have not seen any adverse effects? Or maybe my untrained eye is not discerning enough to pick up any subtle changes? Or is the whole separate tanks thing just overcaution?

Does anyone else keep separate kit for different chemicals?

 

[faberryman]

Who suggested that you needed separate kit?

 

[jcn]

I read it somewhere on the internet, hard to pinpoint where exactly, it was a while ago... Obviously, if it's on the internet then it must be true, so I took it as gospel

 

[Paul Howell]

In the old days, meaning 60s and 70s it was a common recommendation to keep color and black and white chemistry in separate containers. I use lab grade glass cylinders, got them at ASU surplus years ago, I also use gallon and quart size brown glass bottles to store mixed chemistry. None of the chemistry I use stains glass, that includes MCM 100. I think any good grade plastic contains will work as well, I know that some use empty and well washed soda bottles, for me just a habit. 2 liter soda bottles are so cheap you can easily keep a separate set for color and black and white.

 

[mshchem]

I read it somewhere on the internet, hard to pinpoint where exactly, it was a while ago... Obviously, if it's on the internet then it must be true, so I took it as gospel

I've never had any problems. Obviously you keep things tidy. Jobo recommends never allowing a rinse aid like Photoflo or any final rinse to contact the spirals.

I think rinsing out your tanks with warm water is all you need do. Drying your tanks and spirals with a clean towel keeps things looking like new.

 

[Pieter12]

Most all photo chemicals are very water-soluble. If you rinse your tanks and their components well (I assume you are talking developing tanks here, not containers) you should have no problem. I do try to keep Photoflo away from everything as much as possible, it seems to be less soluble.

 

[brbo]

Kodak's recommendations for mixing BW, C-41, E-6:

 

[AgX]

This advice is obviously hinting at commercial labs with huge, static tanks.


In an amateur set up, any tank can easily be rinsed completely.
The Kodak advice understood your way would mean that in a chemical lab, utensils would have to be limited to certain reactions, whereas it is general practice to just rinse them and putting them into storage (concerning aqueaus solutions as we use).

 

[AgX]

Jobo recommends never allowing a rinse aid like Photoflo or any final rinse to contact the spirals.

Well, I got a Jobo manual where they explicetely advise to give some droplets of wetting-agent concentrate into the developing tank with spirals and still filled with water from washing.


Concerning Jobo each party can find advice from them advocating just their way of doing...

 

[foc]

Kodak's recommendations for mixing BW, C-41, E-6:

View attachment 305695

That data is for commercial processing.
For home developing just wash everything and keep it clean and tidy and you will have no problems.
No need to over think it.

 

[brbo]

Of course, nobody is going to keep 4 mixing jugs at hand. I use one jug for everything. But since OP already has more than one set, he might use the information how to use it best. And then there was a question on who the heck was stupid enough to suggest something like using more than one jug in the first place...

 

[AgX]

If one uses seperate jugs to line up at a processing run for the different baths, even marked, one of course could use them for preparing working solutions. Thus ones mind is at ease concerning jugs.

 

[guangong]

I use glass cylinders, beakers, flasks, and bottles. The bottles are brown. I organized them from trash of local college’s chemistry lab when building was being converted to other uses. Glass is easy to clean.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I was wondering if anyone uses different tanks/kit for different chemicals?

I started developing B&W and just used the same inversion tanks, measuring cylinders, stirrers and thermometers for everything - Rodinal, ID11, DD-X, D76, you name it...
When started developing in C41, I used the same equipment I had been using for B&W and noticed no adverse effects.

I then read that E6 and C41 should be used with different equipment to avoid cross-contamination. So I bought a different cylinder and tank just for E6.
At some point, however, I mixed them up and used the dedicated E6 tank for C41, and vice-versa... Again, did not see any adverse effects.

I am always really careful and thoroughly wash everything after using it, and never develop with more than one process in any one session... Could that be the reason I have not seen any adverse effects? Or maybe my untrained eye is not discerning enough to pick up any subtle changes? Or is the whole separate tanks thing just overcaution?

Does anyone else keep separate kit for different chemicals?

There is no problem using the same tanks they're washed carefully after each application.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I see no reason for multiple sets of tanks and reels to avoid contamination. I always scrub my equipment at the end of each session and if it has been a very long time since being used I scrub everything again.

 

[Paul Howell]

For color I have always used SS tanks and reels, not because of possible contamination, as I use a water bath metal tanks conducts heat better than plastic and keep the chem at + or - 1 while processing.

 

[mshchem]

In my past I had brown glass and Nalgene plastic bottles. The problem I found was it was difficult, especially with brown opaque plastic I couldn't see residues, tars etc on the inside of the bottles.
Now I have clear glass and plastic, I still have some nice amber PET Boston rounds.
The mixing instructions are great advice for commercial labs. Probably just a few labs left with a need for mixing huge quantities. Keep a tidy darkroom.

 

[MattKing]

If you work in shared darkroom facilities, separate containers and tanks may make more sense.

 

[Donald Qualls]

If you work in shared darkroom facilities, separate containers and tanks may make more sense.

But a shared facility, in my experience, is where you're most likely to find people using whatever's in reach, uncaring of what was in it last time or will be in it next time.

The only concession I make for special cleaning of my film developing equipment is to run an old toothbrush through the grooves in each reel plate after rinsing out the wetting agent or C-41 final rinse, before setting everything out to dry. I presume it's working; I never have any trouble loading 135, 127, or 120/620 (even two rolls of the latter sizes on a single spiral) -- unless the film is 60-70 years old, of course...

 

[AgX]

In my past I had brown glass and Nalgene plastic bottles. The problem I found was it was difficult, especially with brown opaque plastic I couldn't see residues, tars etc on the inside of the bottles.

High-transparent bottles, stored if necessary in the dark, is the way to go.

 

[mshchem]

High-transparent bottles, stored if necessary in the dark, is the way to go.

I agree. And my darkroom, thankfully is cool and dark. I'm very fortunate to have a nice corner, lower level space.

 

[mshchem]

But a shared facility, in my experience, is where you're most likely to find people using whatever's in reach, uncaring of what was in it last time or will be in it next time.

The only concession I make for special cleaning of my film developing equipment is to run an old toothbrush through the grooves in each reel plate after rinsing out the wetting agent or C-41 final rinse, before setting everything out to dry. I presume it's working; I never have any trouble loading 135, 127, or 120/620 (even two rolls of the latter sizes on a single spiral) -- unless the film is 60-70 years old, of course...

I loaded a roll of Verichrome 620 onto a Jobo reel the other day. Expiration 1973. I discovered that 620 has tape on both ends of the film, attaching the film to the backing paper. Doing a bit of reading. According to Shanebrook, the extra tape was used to tame film curling. The smaller diameter of the 620 spool core causing more curl.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Some 620 was double taped, some wasn't. Been rather a long while since you could buy "real" 620 (factory spooled, that is), though, so I could be recalling wrong. I owned 620 for many years before getting my first 120 camera, but didn't have facilities to develop my own film for much of that time.

 

[Agulliver]

Shanghai GP3 100 is factory made in 620 now.

Regarding chemical bottles, I certainly store my dichromate bleach in a bottle that will never be used for anything else. But I use it in a tank that is utilised for both negative and reversal processing and in which I've also done E6. I wash it carefully.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Is GP3 100 available in 620 in the USA? The only place I've seen it was on an Asian web site.

For dichromate bleach, it would probably be a good idea to use a sodium sulfite wash as part of the cleanup process (converts the hexavalent chromium ion the much less active and toxic trivalent).