Developing B&W 4x5 Film

[John Wiegerink]

Has anyone tried B's 4x5 reel?

B's 4x5 developing reel Mk2 — Bounet-Photography

www.bounetphoto.com

I went to their site a while back and read all about it. It sounds like the answer for many folks, but I haven't read/seen anybody use one yet. Price is right also!

 

[Chuck_P]

It takes me about 15 seconds to fill, put on the lids, burp the tank and then agitate for 15 seconds. I then do 5 revolutions per minute (about 10 seconds) and allow 5-7 seconds to fully dump. The way the tank is constructed, it dumps quickly with both caps off, but you have to do 2 pours; one for the main amount, back upright and then dump about a tablespoon out of the baffles.

Never had an issue with uneven development from day-one. The trick is to tilt the tank and pour it into the fill orifice, which is the larger of the two. I rapt it lightly against the sink to dislodge air bubbles after each agitation period.

There are YouTube tutorials on how to use the tank.

Heavily hinting to my wife for Santa to bring the 6 sheet SP 645 version to this good little boy...

I don't follow on the part where you mention having to do two pours when dumping this tank. I use this tank and I don't do two pours to completely empty it.............is that what you're referring to? Sorry if I misunderstand the statement. I agree that it dumps quickly with both caps off.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I don't follow on the part where you mention having to do two pours when dumping this tank. I use this tank and I don't do two pours to completely empty it.............is that what you're referring to? Sorry if I misunderstand the statement. I agree that it dumps quickly with both caps off.

I've never done it that way either? I always just poured one time and that's it. I learn something new everyday.

 

[Kino]

I don't follow on the part where you mention having to do two pours when dumping this tank. I use this tank and I don't do two pours to completely empty it.............is that what you're referring to? Sorry if I misunderstand the statement. I agree that it dumps quickly with both caps off.

The 2nd "pour" is simply reorienting the tank upright and then emptying about a teaspoon of chemistry that gets trapped on the first emptying somewhere in the light baffles or some internal crevice.

To me, it's important to extend the life of my TF5 fix as much as possible and a teaspoon of acid stop per tank adds up quick.

I've never done it that way either? I always just poured one time and that's it. I learn something new everyday.

You don't have to do it; I just noticed the tank tended to trap this amount without a 2nd emptying.

 

[abruzzi]

The 2nd "pour" is simply reorienting the tank upright and then emptying about a teaspoon of chemistry that gets trapped on the first emptying somewhere in the light baffles or some internal crevice.

The exact same thing on mine as well. Not sure where the chemistry gets trapped, but uprighting then tilting again gets most of the chems out.

 

[John Wiegerink]

The 2nd "pour" is simply reorienting the tank upright and then emptying about a teaspoon of chemistry that gets trapped on the first emptying somewhere in the light baffles or some internal crevice.

To me, it's important to extend the life of my TF5 fix as much as possible and a teaspoon of acid fix per tank adds up quick.



You don't have to do it; I just noticed the tank tended to trap this amount without a 2nd emptying.

No, I will do it now that I know. I use my TF2 fixer as long as I can and this will help even more.

 

[Stephen Benskin]

I first tired tray development and did not like that for multiple reasons.
I went to FreeStyle which lets one bring back equipment within so many days:

Yankee Tanks sloshed chemistry when moving back and forth across the table.​

I tired several other tanks and ended up with the Jobo 3010 Expert Drum on a PPE+ processor. The Jobo 3010 Expert Drum on a PPE+ processor won hands down with up to 10 4"x5" sheets, consistent development and no problems. I got credit for everything I bought from FreeStyle and I am one very happy camper.​

+1

 

[Chuck_P]

The 2nd "pour" is simply reorienting the tank upright and then emptying about a teaspoon of chemistry that gets trapped on the first emptying somewhere in the light baffles or some internal crevice.

Interesting, I can't say that I experience the need for that or have had any issues with the life of my rapid fixer.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Yankee Tanks sloshed chemistry when moving back and forth across the table.

I had this problem when I first got my Yankee Agitank -- but I found the solution. Instead of sliding the tank end to end on the counter, I tilt it on one leg until the bottom edge touches down, then return to level, then tilt the other way. One cycle of this is equivalent to an inversion -- and no spillage at all, even with 1.6L fill for 4x5.

I've recently gotten a Mod54 six-sheet 4x5 holder to fit my largest Paterson tank, but haven't had a chance to use it yet. I'll see whether I like it better than the Agitank.

 

[Strembicki]

As someone who taught photo and large format for 42 years, I can tell you all of these methods work and produce good results, however, your own results will vary according to technique and practice. I personally do all my 4x5 and 5x7 in a combination of tray (DEV, STOP, FIX) then hangers and tanks for pre wash, fix remover, final wash and wetting agent), it does take practice, start with only 2 sheets and work your way up, I use 8x10 trays for my 5x7 and use 2 L of chemistry, I found 1 L in a 8x10 tray made it harder to work the film agitation. As always, your mileage will vary.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've tried trays for 4x5 and I wasn't happy with the results. I got good development -- but also a big ol' scratch in my best image from that trip. For years, I did my 4x5 in tubes with a homemade pour-through light trap, which works fine if you pull the sheets out to fix in the light (else they have patches of leftover antihalation dye). Now I have my Agitank and Mod54, which cover my needs, though if I developed a lot and used one-shot developer, I'd probably spring for a Stearman 645.

 

[BHuij]

I didn't like tray dev when I started 4x5. Standing in pitch blackness for that much time sucked, and I got uneven development around the edges. I also found it difficult not to scratch the negs when I was shuffling them. Skill issue, I know.

Went to tubes and a rotary base and never looked back.

 

[koraks]

I got good development -- but also a big ol' scratch in my best image from that trip.

Did you process multiple sheets in a tray? When tray processing, I limit to a single sheet for this reason. I can't see how shuffling multiple sheets will end well. The risk of a corner of one sheet scratching the emulsion on the sheet below is just too big.
With x-ray film which I used for a while, the issue of scratching was pretty phenomenal. Just walking into the same room the film was stored in would scratch it, it seemed.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Did you process multiple sheets in a tray?

I did. I was using high dilution developer to avoid unevenness from sheets standing on top of one another between agitations, and I didn't really fancy standing in the dark for twenty-plus minutes for each sheet I'd shot. I'd been assured that scratching was easy to avoid -- it wasn't.

 

[Don_ih]

Just walking into the same room the film was stored in would scratch it, it seemed.

That's the main reason I stopped using xray film. The best results I ever got from it were rating it iso400 and developing in Diafine. I had tanks and hangers (perfect for Diafine) but the film would get scratched seemingly all on its own.

I know of one excellent large format photographer that has always tray processed and successfully shuffles several 8x10s in a tray at a time - without scratches - and it's HP5, which is not the most scratch-resistant emulsion out there. But I figure some kind of sorcery is involved.

 

[Romanko]

I shot 9x12 cm sheets a few times and processed them by "taco" method (bend the film like a taco, use a hair rubber band to hold it in this position and load up to 4 or 5 "tacos" in a Paterson tank of appropriate height. Do not forget to use the centre column.)
Not ideal but it worked for me.

 

[Kino]

That's the main reason I stopped using xray film. The best results I ever got from it were rating it iso400 and developing in Diafine. I had tanks and hangers (perfect for Diafine) but the film would get scratched seemingly all on its own.

Same here on the scratches and "mystery gouges".

I have relegated what remaining X-ray film I have to camera testing for light leaks.

I salute those who can use it without problems; I can't.

 

[BAC1967]

I had this problem when I first got my Yankee Agitank -- but I found the solution. Instead of sliding the tank end to end on the counter, I tilt it on one leg until the bottom edge touches down, then return to level, then tilt the other way. One cycle of this is equivalent to an inversion -- and no spillage at all, even with 1.6L fill for 4x5.

I've recently gotten a Mod54 six-sheet 4x5 holder to fit my largest Paterson tank, but haven't had a chance to use it yet. I'll see whether I like it better than the Agitank.

That's what the instructions say to do, it seems a lot of people try sloshing these tanks around without reading the instructions. I think they are great for sheet film and give very good even development. The biggest downside to these is the amount of chemistry required. If you have several sheets it's not a problem but for just a few it's not worth it. When I have one or two sheets I just put them in a tall stainless steel tank, bent with the emulsion facing in. Just do gentle slight tilting agitations to avoid having them move around too much, don't invert.

I have one of the Nikkor large SS tanks, agitation is difficult to do without leaving surge marks down the center of the sheet from the metal band that sits right next to it.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The biggest downside to these is the amount of chemistry required.

This is less of a problem if you run a replenished developer -- you need enough volume to cover the film, but only enough replenisher for the actual area developed.

 

[SodaAnt]

I have one of the Nikkor large SS tanks, agitation is difficult to do without leaving surge marks down the center of the sheet from the metal band that sits right next to it.

What happens if you leave the metal band off? Will the sheets move around or fall out of the slots?

 

[Dave Ludwig]

Dip tanks and hangers. I process 6-8 sheets at a time and prefer the faster transition from one chemical to the next. Loading hangers takes about 20 seconds each. Plus if I feel it necessary I can develop by inspection. Yeah, I'm in the dark and it is so peaceful. When loading film holders and hangers I keep my eyes closed.

 

[mshchem]

Dip tanks and hangers. I process 6-8 sheets at a time and prefer the faster transition from one chemical to the next. Loading hangers takes about 20 seconds each. Plus if I feel it necessary I can develop by inspection. Yeah, I'm in the dark and it is so peaceful. When loading film holders and hangers I keep my eyes closed.

This is the easiest method yet. I have Jobo Expert drums, these are great, but it's hard to beat hangers and 1/2 gallon Kodak Hard rubber tanks for black and white.

 

[BAC1967]

What happens if you leave the metal band off? Will the sheets move around or fall out of the slots?

I think they are part of the structure that holds everything in place.

 

[John Wiegerink]

This is less of a problem if you run a replenished developer -- you need enough volume to cover the film, but only enough replenisher for the actual area developed.

I had a Yankee and a FR sheet film tank, but hated to use them due to the amount of developer needed. Enter Xtol-R! Xtol-R was the answer to the wasted developer problem and it worked perfect in the Yankee tank. I never had a problem with spilled liquids in the Yankee, but I always use the bottom feet rocker method for agitation. With no inner ear balance (equilibrium) I couldn't stand in the dark so I used a high rolling office chair in front of my sink, but tray development still sucked for me. I don't think I could have mastered it with good balance. I'm even thinking of adding the Stearman 645 to go with my 445.

 

[Sirius Glass]

After I went from trays to various tanks, FreeStyle recommended that I try the Jobo processor with the Jobo 3010 Expert Drum. I quickly found out the with that drum I could develop color or black & white 4"x5" sheet film easily and consistently.