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- Nov 16, 2004
- Messages
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Once you do this Alan, can you give us pics of what you found? This would be much appreciated.Thanks for those details, I have some Pyrocat HD and 4 test strips exposed 100 125 160 200 250 320 so I will try that.
Also looking at 2 bath developers like Diafine substitute , IDK if it would work.
Much appreciated, AlanI hope to post the details from taking real photographs later if the procedure proves satisfactory for this purpose.
Dan, did you shoot it at 400?
MDS-1 is quite similar to the now discontinued Emofin, Metol-Carbonate but without the PPD and with added hydroquinone.
IIRC I used to get about 1 stop more film speed with Emofin. Bill Troop suggested a possible substitute for it:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/microdol-x-replacement.46346/page-8#post-669467
thanks. Conversely, I’m using quite a bit more hydroquinone. Which if your theory is correct about the cause for uneven skies, may also be why the skies look ok. I used Barry Thornton’s two bath a bunch with other films. I found that it was very low contrast and below box speed for the films I used. It’s nice for photo quality. The very low contrast might be good for this film but like @gorbas showed you probably won’t get any more speed. I have some Rollei Retro 400S. Maybe I’ll try it in 2B-1Yes your skies are indeed OK and it is good to see that more than box speed can be obtained. It is possible the sky problem only occurs with unusually contrasty films.
It seems that Tetenal/Troop left out hydroquinone and used only metol in the Part A. Maybe there are more possibilities still not investigated as metol alone may provide lower contrast although at first sight that is just to re-invent Barry Thornton's two bath developer with a carbonate Part B.
Unfortunately I never fully tested BTTB in all situations and with different films but what I have seen so far your conclusion is very close to mine.I found that it was very low contrast and below box speed for the films I used.
Alan and Relistan, maybe we should have one organized thread about all those 2 bath developers instead of spreading them all over??
As I recall, when Hennings Serger tested this film, he found the usable EI to be 160 at the most. It doesn't help the Maco markets three films that are all apparently based on Agfa Aviphot 200. I have heard it said that the ISO of aerial films is established in a different way than for convention films and the effective speed is lower if used as pictorial film. So if the box speed of 200 is really an aerial speed, it makes sense that for general use might be EI 100-160. If you want greatest speed, you could use a speed increasing developer like Xtol and clones, which will also give good sharpness and fine grain. Some people complain that the film is excessively contrasty, but some of this is due to shooting at an EI that is too high, resulting in a push exposure. This is especially true with IR 400 if people try to shoot it at 400.
The only one I could have was home made "Bauman Diafine""
A
Metol-3g
Potassium metabisulfite-30g
Hydroquinone-7.5g
Sodium Carbonate 1.3g
KBr-2g
Water to 1L
B
Sodium Carbonate-100g
Sodium Sulphite-10g
KBr-2g
Water to 1L
I was very happy with those results. I used it mostly with ORWO Np-7, Np-27 and Tri-x films.
As I recall, when Hennings Serger tested this film, he found the usable EI to be 160 at the most.
It doesn't help the Maco markets three films that are all apparently based on Agfa Aviphot 200. I have heard it said that the ISO of aerial films is established in a different way than for convention films and the effective speed is lower if used as pictorial film.
Some people complain that the film is excessively contrasty, but some of this is due to shooting at an EI that is too high, resulting in a push exposure. This is especially true with IR 400 if people try to shoot it at 400.
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