D76 versus ID11, Are they the same things ?

[Keith Tapscott.]

The picture in the link below shows an extra component in D-76. See post 50 in the link.

Alternate d76 formulas, worth trying?

I always found better tonal range with replenished developers better shadow and highlight details, un-replenished developer give harsher results in terms of contrast.. Ian Some films esp., Foma gives green color liquid after pre-wash. I don't know what dyes they are but I wonder whether they...

www.photrio.com

 

[koraks]

The picture in the link below shows an extra component in D-76.

It just shows a normal borate buffer system. These are the kind of differences @ADOX Fotoimpex referred to earlier: there are differences in what the manufacturer puts into the bag, but that doesn't mean there's the same difference once everything has gone into solution. The end point is virtually the same.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

It's probably why some people prefer to mix from scratch.

 

[Don_ih]

It's probably why some people prefer to mix from scratch.

The main reason to mix from scratch is that it's a whole lot cheaper. Also, if you mix your own, you can also mix the replenisher that you can no longer buy.

 

[koraks]

To add, for me personally the attractiveness in mixing my own developers is to have control over the freshness of the developer. I.e. the dry ingredients generally store indefinitely so I know I can always work with 100% fresh developer that will therefore perform perfectly predictably.

 

[Don_ih]

Yeah, there are many reasons to mix your own - not least of which is being able to mix up as much as you need for the time.

 

[Milpool]

Yeah, there are many reasons to mix your own - not least of which is being able to mix up as much as you need for the time.

Right, but do you mix D-76 or ID-11?

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

How about Clayton F76+ ??

 

[John Wiegerink]

How about Clayton F76+ ??

I think I read that Clayton F76+ is not the same as Kodaks D-76, but don't know for sure.

 

[Milpool]

I think I read that Clayton F76+ is not the same as Kodaks D-76, but don't know for sure.

If we’re talking formulas/ingredients it’s not the same as F-76+ is based on Phenidone rather than metol, has a different pH/alkali etc. However that doesn’t mean it produces different results than D-76. Since it was formulated to more or less replicate the working characteristics of D-76 the results might be indistinguishable.

 

[Richard Jepsen]

What I want to know is

1. Does D/76/ID-11 PH still rise after 6 weeks or so?
2. Did Adox D76 fix the PH rise?

 

[miha]

Reading this, I think I’ll just buy Rodinal.

 

[Milpool]

Reading this, I think I’ll just buy Rodinal.

Which version of Rodinal?

 

[miha]

The one that comes without a 12-page thread

 

[John Wiegerink]

The one that comes without a 12-page thread

 

[Alex Benjamin]

The one that comes without a 12-page thread

Ha! Wait until you say you'll be doing stand development in it....

 

[miha]

Ha! Wait until you say you'll be doing stand development in it....

Please… although I’m a William Mortensen fan, I don’t do stand, my film needs drama.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Ha! Wait until you say you'll be doing stand development in it....

Is that with a pre-soak or no pre-soak?

 

[Paul Howell]

If we’re talking formulas/ingredients it’s not the same as F-76+ is based on Phenidone rather than metol, has a different pH/alkali etc. However that doesn’t mean it produces different results than D-76. Since it was formulated to more or less replicate the working characteristics of D-76 the results might be indistinguishable.

I have used Clayton F76 off and on for years, Clayton F76 produces similar results as D76, balance of grain, speed and contrast, I think the times are similar. At 1:9 when using my Unicolor film drum I can mix up 10oz for 2 rolls toss and done. In the past when going out of town for weeks or months at a time I would fill a partial bottle up the brim with marbles and freeze the remainder then defrost, still works.

 

[koraks]

The one that comes without a 12-page thread

Only longer threads?

 

[pentaxuser]

If the same, still no sure whey ILford recommends more time in ID 11 at 1:1 1:3 and pushed to 800.

Probably because things(life in general) happen more slowly in the U.K.

pentaxuser

 

[Don_ih]

Right, but do you mix D-76 or ID-11?

The recipe that's in my old copy of Leica Manual - along with the formula for replenishing.

Probably the same recipe Ilford uses to make ID11...

 

[ADOX Fotoimpex]

What I want to know is

1. Does D/76/ID-11 PH still rise after 6 weeks or so?
2. Did Adox D76 fix the PH rise?

ADOX D-76 was intended as a replacement for Kodak D-76 when it was no longer available and you might want to call it clone.
ADOX D-76 ECO is a totally different story. I never witnessed this pH rise you are refering to but in the ECO version we use a different, better, buffer and that might actually do this fix. Do you you know how to test for it? Just store and measure pH?

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

ADOX D-76 was intended as a replacement for Kodak D-76 when it was no longer available and you might want to call it clone.
ADOX D-76 ECO is a totally different story. I never witnessed this pH rise you are refering to but in the ECO version we use a different, better, buffer and that might actually do this fix. Do you you know how to test for it? Just store and measure pH?

The Adox D-76 ECO might actually be the best of the D-76 types currently available.
Would you consider a replenisher if there was enough demand?

 

[pbromaghin]

D76 and ID11 have a very similar formulation, but D76 is the dogs bollocks of developers and ID11 is a close second.

Ummmm. Is this a good thing or a bad thing?