A dilute permanganate rinse was once used for oral infections.
Make sure you use an established working first developer and film combination that works with a normal bleach first.did a quick test the other day...didn't seem to work...should probably try it again sometime...however I am having fun experimenting with copper plating with the copper sulfate
Make sure you use an established working first developer and film combination that works with a normal bleach first.
I washed after sodium sulphite before ammonia solution.
So was radium......off point......
I look at the 3 choices as availiability issues. Permanginate is used as an explosive ingrediant. It's a big deal, here in Canada. You can get it, but the government needs you to create a paper trail (set yourself up as a corp) before venders will sell it seperately. I was lucky with Pot. Dichromate. I convinced a local chemical company to sell me some, if my order was at least $300 or more...... I bought a lot. They since have gotten sold, but I bought a lotI found the English sold Copper Sulfite willingly on EBay and I baught 500g. With a recipe similar to what Gerry posted, it never worked for me. I am still using my expensive Dichromate.
I have noticed that Permaginate is being blamed for breaking down the emulsion, and I have to disagree, as it equally happens with Dichromate. I found it's the streingth of the bleach that does the damage (likely the acid). I have been using half streingth bleach for the last 5 years with little to no emulsion loss. I just bleach a little longer.
I am afraid to verify your first claim, and have no intention to build such a device. I can contradict your second claim, though. People who buy unusual quantities of these compounds do generate a blip on the radar, such as this gentleman. AFAIK the existence of this compound is the main reason why we can't bring liquids through airport security any more.You can make a much better explosive from acetone and hydrogen peroxide. I would assume that neither of these chemicals is interdicted.
Something I've thought about but only finally gotten around to trying, looks like it was successful on the very first try. This avoids the damage and unreliability of Permanganate, and the toxicity of Dichromate (And the difficult some people have of getting their hands on it).
I used my standard developer recipe for T-Max reversal on some Delta 100 as a first developer, wash etc.
Then I used a copper sulphate and sodium chloride bleach.. a rehal bleach. The idea here to bleach the negative portion back to silver chloride so that we can selective fix the silver chloride and leave the rest of the silver bromide and silver iodide intact.
I cleared the bleach with sodium sulphite and washed the film.
Then I sat the film in undiluted store bought household cloudy ammonia which is 2% Ammonia Hydroxide.. we can take advantage of the solubility difference in weak ammonia solutions between the silver halides..
Then I just washed and redeveloped in some print developer. Worked like a charm.
The important part here is you use sodium chloride and not a bromide salt, and also that you follow it up with an ammonia bath.
(Keep in mind I've only done the 1 test)
If you skip the clearing step you risk staining. can you Kodak Hypo Clear from a photographic reseller? That'd be fine too.
I only re-expose with room light, I dont use a dedicated bulb. Pulling it out in room light is enough to sufficiently fog the film for development (i take the film off the reel and put it back on usually).
Time.. I forgot, I prefer to raise temps to keep them short, but you'll be able to see by eye when you inspect the film.
Are there are any wine making or brewing shops? Sometimes liquor stores will carry that stuff too, you can get sodium metabisulphite there, and you can raise the pH with something if needed (not sure if an acidic pH acid clear with copper sulphate bleach would pose any issue or not).
According to Tetenal's MSDS for this product it contains Na4-EDTA and K2CO3 and has a pH of 11.2. I doesn't appear to contain Sulfite in sufficient amounts to work as step 4 clearing bath in Dan's procedure, and given its high pH it would likely precipitate Copper Carbonate, something you definitely do not want to happen.Thanks Athiril for your response!! I do have a hypo clear product at home: "Tetenal lavaquick"
According to Tetenal's MSDS for this product it contains Na4-EDTA and K2CO3 and has a pH of 11.2. I doesn't appear to contain Sulfite in sufficient amounts to work as step 4 clearing bath in Dan's procedure, and given its high pH it would likely precipitate Copper Carbonate, something you definitely do not want to happen.
... From my understanding, reversing requires a (almost) complete & permanent removal of the developed silver after the first development while protecting the undeveloped AGhal. Any rehal bleach would not remove the developed silver, but just convert it back to AGhal. Therefore, during the second exposure the film would be fogged completely...
Let me answer the justified question. Reversal processing was known since the 19th century. It gained new interest with the manufacturers of motion-picture film when the giant sleeping market of home movie making was recognized. After WWI Pathé, Eastman-Kodak, Gevaert, and Agfa began making mixed-emulsion films that yield pleasing positive pictures (am I not being poetic?) by reversing. The 9½mm, 16mm, and 8mm systems (rather than mere formats) rely on that. No need of printing. Beautiful slides could be made on corresponding film, I remember well Agfa-Gevaert’s Dia-Direct.Question: why all the noodling around with chemistry to get a reversal? Why not just contact print or enlarge onto ortho film, or even xray film?
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