MattKing
Moderator
I wonder if he would accept and include a 620 spool if you supplied one?
It all seems very complicated. Or something simple is being made complicated through lack of confidence in DIY skills, and usually the answer to that is to spend time and/or money solving a simple problem.
Take a drill or angle grinder with a sanding disc, set it on slow, and grind down each end of the plastic spool until it is wafer thin, and be careful not to melt the plastic in doing so. Nibble the flange off with a pair of flush faced side-cutters so it's flush with the backing paper and blow all the dust away. If that takes more than ten minutes it's because you stopped for a coffee halfway through. Of course you still need the 620 spool for the take-up side but that will have come with the camera, and remember not to throw it away with the backing paper. Using lathes or re-spooling is just adding un-necessary complications.
I wonder if he would accept and include a 620 spool if you supplied one?
Is it ok if I worry anyway?
I wonder if he would accept and include a 620 spool if you supplied one?
Since my Brownie Hawkeye camera will take a 120 spool and I only need a 620 spool to take up the film, I will skip buying one and just be careful to save the 620 spool after developing each roll.
I contacted the seller and asked if the 120 spool could be changed to a 620 spool or if he could provide a 620 spool instead.
His answer:
View attachment 338564
My Brownie Hawkeye works that way, but the take-up is far from smooth.
That's what I did except I used sandpaper. Some might say the filings will get in but if light can't in I don't think dust will.
No filing or grinding here, nor re-spooling. I use strong, good quality nail scissors to clip the ends of the 120 spool down a bit. And a 620 spool on the take-up side. Works like a charm so far...
I've clipped the ends of a 120 spool with a nail clipper to load it into a 620 camera (can't remember which one, sorry). It's a lot easier than lathes, grinders, etc, and no dust. But it is not going to work on all cameras; the 120 roll of film is still fatter, because the core of the spool is fatter than 620. Arguing with people that respooling is bad is not going to make progress, because there are some cameras (Medalist, for example) where only respooling onto 620 will make it fit.
Quite some Kodaks. Several Six-20 folders from the 30s, 2 Brownies Six-20, one folder, the other a box. I don't have theses anymore. Recently a 620, most probably French, https://www.120folder.com/kodak_folding_620_angenieux.htmThat’s a very fortunate situation. Which camera?
My Kodak Brownie Hawkeye can take 120, but it's a snug fit.
There are apparently three generations of this camera. The oldest accepts a 120 supply. The middle generation will accept 120 with the flange trimmed to 620 diameter; the last production run won't accept the length of 120, and requires either thinning the spool flanges as well as trimming diameter, or respooling to 620. Apparently it took Kodak a while to really master lock-in.
No filing or grinding here, nor re-spooling. I use strong, good quality nail scissors to clip the ends of the 120 spool down a bit. And a 620 spool on the take-up side. Works like a charm so far...
That's what I have to do for my Hawkeye... That trick won't work for my Brownie Six-20.
Use the Hawkeye to spool to a 620 spool and then rewind that one to a 620 in a changing bag.
But I like to fumble with it in the dark...
I figure that since you can find a Hawkeye on pretty much doorstep in America, there isn't much "history preservation" associated to them. Might as well modify them to keep them doing what they were intended to.
I modified pretty heavily an old Hawkeye Flash years ago. I even moved the flash sync so that it would work with electronic flashes!
Here’s where theory meets practice: with even casual cleanliness I respool 120 to 620 all the time and no issues with dust on the film. And it’s fast and easy!The film is already tightly wound, unspooling it and rewinding it in a changing bag is likely to get far more dust onto the film. And this is dust introduced at the exposure stage, not just in hanging the negs up to dry, so another processing 'no-no', don't double down on possible problems unless you need to.
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