MattKing
Moderator
Yes, but if you do it 120 on to 620, and then 620 back onto 620, the "hump" is less of a problem.
It's a double step process. 120 to 120 and then back onto the 620.
Yes, but if you do it 120 on to 620, and then 620 back onto 620, the "hump" is less of a problem.
Yes, but if you do it 120 on to 620, and then 620 back onto 620, the "hump" is less of a problem.
I can even do it in the dark...with my eyes closed.
I eliminate the hump by unsticking the tape, pulling the film taught, and then re-sticking it to the backing paper.
I can confirm that it is an easy task to respool 120 onto 620 spool. I can even do it in the dark...with my eyes closed.
Seriously though, I roll the 120 onto a 620, then back onto another 620 spool. No hump. From a 120 to a 120, and then back onto a 620? Hump.
I can confirm that it is an easy task to respool 120 onto 620 spool. I can even do it in the dark...with my eyes closed.
Seriously though, I roll the 120 onto a 620, then back onto another 620 spool. No hump. From a 120 to a 120, and then back onto a 620? Hump.
So a blind person can do this. Good to know.
LOL... I know what you mean; I respool in a changing bag and close my eyes anyway.
...and do it faster.
But then the film isn't in the right place and you would have problems with the numbers...I eliminate the hump by unsticking the tape, pulling the film taught, and then re-sticking it to the backing paper.
How would a blind person develop film by inspection?
How would a blind person develop film by inspection?
But then the film isn't in the right place and you would have problems with the numbers...
I can confirm that it is an easy task to respool 120 onto 620 spool. I can even do it in the dark...with my eyes closed.
Seriously though, I roll the 120 onto a 620, then back onto another 620 spool. No hump. From a 120 to a 120, and then back onto a 620? Hump.
But then the film isn't in the right place and you would have problems with the numbers...
IME, the few times I've done this, to take out the hump, the film only has to be moved by less than 1 cm forward relative to the backing paper, within the margin of the total film length. (That is, there is often about 1cm or more of blank film after the last exposure on a factory-rolled film). Or, if you have a 620 camera with a start-mark and auto winding (eg Medalist), you can try to remember to start the winding just 1 cm or so before the start mark arrows on the paper.
That might not really be necessary. Retpaking the hump moves the film a bit toward the lead end of the backing paper and will add just a bit to the head of the film. There’s so much tail to the film that there’s virtually no chance of frames falling off the tail end unless one tries to squeeze in one more frame than normally expected.
My Kodak Brownie Hawkeye can take 120, but it's a snug fit.Not in my Kodak Browie Hawkeye camera take up chamber.
My Kodak Brownie Hawkeye can take 120, but it's a snug fit.
Chris
Mine too. It can take a 120 but it needs a 620 to take it up.
Not sure if it has already been covered, but I bought one of these - makes re-rolling 120 to 620 much easier, especially in a dark bag.
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