Camera for a beginner!

[Rick A]

I really must take issue with that. While I have no quarrel with auto-everything SLR's, I do not think that using one is the best way to learn how film, cameras, and lenses work together. Yes, almost all of them offer manual overrides. But the temptation to rely on the camera's automation is too great to be ignored, and that only serves to reinforce the belief in beginners that shutter speed, aperture, and focus are matters beyond their comprehension. It does take a bit of work to figure these things out, but in the end it is worthwhile. Light meters can lie, and auto-exposure can be fooled. Autofocus is not always dead on accurate. When you do get to an automatic camera, you'll already know how and why these errors occur; and you'll know how to compensate for these shortcomings.

Thank you Frank, I couldn't have said it better. That is exactly what I meant in my first post. If neo's take the time to learn all the aspects of what the components of a photograph are made of, the relationships of the film, lens, and speed/aperture, along with the composition, and how they come together,is whats needed, and not an automaton that does the work for you. I don't know how people can call themselves "photographers" if they cannot perform the basic operations. IMO users of "fully automatic"cameras are merely snapshooters. It does no good to have a machine that does everything, even if you can override the controls, if you don't know why, or when you need to take control.

Rick

 

[Erik Petersson]

Really, the crucial step for me was to see how beuatiful film can be. That got me hooked. A good fast lens - 50mm E f1:1.8 in my case - was important for that, but not manual exposure.

I started out with a Nikon EM, which has fully automated exposure. Now I own an F3, and have got into the habit of overriding the exposure that the camera proposes.

Forwhom, most film is very good, but all labs are not. You should try to find a good lab.

 

[Leighgion]

Is that a list of the options you've found available locally?

 

[mdm]

F65 with a 50mm f1.8 lens. Tough and reliable in every situation. Very light. The only problem I have with my F65 is that iso can't be set manually, only by the dx coding on the film so if you bulk load you may need some stickers. Really not a big problem but still annoying.

I have taken mine to 20 000ft, dropped it down a cliff, got wet, hot cold, everything and it is still the best 35mm camera I have ever used. Portraits, landscapes, indoor, action, everything. I do have a manual Nikon with an excelent zoom but they are hopeless in available light and confusing to use and really, 35mm is all about getting the shot, larger formats lend themselves to a manual, careful and considerd approach. So go with the F65 with a fast 50mm and expose some film. (save the all manual camera for snapping away at the grandkids)

David

 

[Joachim_I]

Will not comment on the camera choice. But I would recommend starting with a fixed focal length in the range 35-85mm. The 50mm f1.4 lenses are almost always first class in terms of optical performance. To get good results with the zoom lenses you mentioned, you need either lots of light (often a boring environment to take pictures), a tripod (often inconvenient) or fast film (which is usually not nearly as good as a standard 100 ASA film, assuming you want to shoot colour). I doubt I would have become an enthusiastic film photographer had I started with any of the zoom lenses you mentioned.

 

[Joachim_I]

the other choice would be a box camera ... yeah, i know 120 format film, and old camera ..

I guess that immediately would kill any further interest in film photography for 99.9% of the population Seriously, I can well understand that someone uses a box camera once he is infected with film photography. I myself would be happy to use one. But to recommend a box camera to a beginner is not a good idea, from my point of view.

 

[tkamiya]

I may be wrong and if so, someone please correct me, but I think, Nikon N65/F65 does not allow you to set the ISO speed of your film manually. It always reads the coding on the film canister. That will make it very difficult for you to PUSH/PULL.

I have an N90. It was very important to me that not only would my camera have automated features, but it will also allow me to override just about everything.

I know you said you are a beginner but you will learn quickly and would want to try out new things. My suggestion to you would be to pick a camera that will allow you to manipulate these settings, rather than being forced into automated settings.

I like my camera and I am also looking at F-100. There are so many choices and most are very VERY inexpensive. I'd say take your time looking for a good one. Everyone has favorite and the choice depends on your preference.

 

[Dave Pritchard]

Thank you for the replies! Now this is a bit difficult Looking eBay is OK but shipping to my Country is expensive. I am in Hungary. So it would be great to find a stuff where from the shipping cost is not too much.

And to tell the truth I am totally new as I mentioned. So I have very minimal knowledge on lenses. So I do not know what to do right now

I think you can find a camera locally. As you can tell from the many recommendations, there are many good cameras. There should be a camera club near you. You should be able to ask around to find used film cameras, as well as get someone to advise you on which ones are in good condition. There are probably many experienced photographers not too far from you.

I agree with the suggestions to get a classic manual-focus camera with a normal lens. You may find that cameras made in Former Soviet Union countries are available nearby (FED, ZORKI, KIEV). Just get someone to check them for correct operation.

 

[blind_sparks]

I'll agree with not going with the zooms. Not only are they generally slower than a prime, it also is slightly lazy. I understand the convenience of making a small adjustment to the composition via zooming in/out , but using a 50mm and moving yourself forward and backward is just as convenient and will also preserve the perspective of the lens. Also, as mentioned above, primes are faster and easier to use in available light.

As far as a body is concerned, whatever is most comfortable for you. Handle them first before buying. Find one that you like the layout/handling of. I'd advise against buying something online/sight unseen. Not only may you decide you don't like it, you may discover that you will have to fund some surprise repairs.

 

[Mark Fisher]

Being in Hungary, you might be able to find a Praktica might be easy to find locally and reasonably priced. The East Germans made pretty decent lenses. The cameras I've played with seem a little crude compared to the Japanese models, but very usable. By going this route, you will also have better access to other lenses in the future.

 

[forwhom]

Thanks to everybody! Very usefull comments. Looking forward more

 

[forwhom]

Hello to All!

Well a very interesting thing happened with me... I remembered that my Grandfather had a camera... I ask my father to check whether it is exists or not. And he found it.

This is an Altix V I think with a Prontor-SVS "hardware". The camera and the lense what it has looks like this:

http://u1.ipernity.com/u/3/A4/D0/970916.c42db6ee1.l.jpg

I am going to try this camera. It seems it works and probably would be a hard but interesting start for me.

Any comments on that camera?



Bye,
forwhom

 

[Fireguy2002]

Not particularly on that camera, but good luck with it and enjoy. The biggest and most often advice I was given is to get out and shoot some film, lots of film. Can't wait to see some pics.

 

[nsurit]

There is a Canon AE-1P in the classifieds currently for $47 including postage. How do you say, "No Brainer?" It is not my camera, I use another brand that is great, however this one needs to stay in the family. Bill Barber

 

[Dave Pritchard]

Hello to All!

Well a very interesting thing happened with me... I remembered that my Grandfather had a camera... I ask my father to check whether it is exists or not. And he found it.

This is an Altix V I think with a Prontor-SVS "hardware". The camera and the lense what it has looks like this:

http://u1.ipernity.com/u/3/A4/D0/970916.c42db6ee1.l.jpg

I am going to try this camera. It seems it works and probably would be a hard but interesting start for me.

Any comments on that camera?



Bye,
forwhom

I like it. It is a fully-manual camera. Ask your grandfather for some pointers on using it. I think it is cool. I'd like to have one like it.

 

[removed account4]

I guess that immediately would kill any further interest in film photography for 99.9% of the population Seriously, I can well understand that someone uses a box camera once he is infected with film photography. I myself would be happy to use one. But to recommend a box camera to a beginner is not a good idea, from my point of view.

i find this kind of amusing since most people born before 1970
began their photography experience using some sort of box ..
hawkeye, brownie... whatever ...

it makes me laugh a little when people insist
that you have to have something fancy to
make worthwhile photographs, be "infected"
or have an interest in photography.

my first camera took 127 film and it was a box.
it didn't turn me off, it did just the opposite.

 

[fschifano]

So was my very first camera. It was a Kodak Holiday Flash camera. I was 8 or 9 when it was presented to me for Christmas, and I loved that camera. Here's a link to some info: http://www.brownie-camera.com/28.shtml

 

[bobwysiwyg]

We seem to be straying a bit from the intent, but my first was... see my avatar, I still have it. A Six-20.

 

[forwhom]

It would be good to have a manual for my camera. I did not found it on the web. And a bit hard for me to figure out what the numbers mean on the lense. Can anybody help me on that I took 2-3 shoots. When I had some photos ready I will upload some here. But I think it will take some weeks

Again thanks for the comments and I will not forget these. Now I need some training on photo making... Go for google-ing

 

[John Koehrer]

Pointers>
The ring closest to the body is for shutter speed.
Second is focus.
Third is aperture or f stop.
The camera doesn't have rangefinder or light meter. So. For exposure use the Sunny 16 rule.
Which is:1/ISO @ f 16. If you film is ISO 100 you would use 1/100 @ f 16 for bright sun. If you use ISO 200 then it's 1/200 @ f16. If your subject is in the shade open the lens about 1 1/2 -2 f stops(f10-f8) f10 would be between 8 & 11.
Focus is by estimation. set the focus to what you thin is the correct distance to your subject.
If you want to use different speeds you can do that. You just have to change Both speed and f stop in combination:
1/200 @ 16 = 1/400 @ f11= 1/800 @ f8. It's a very simple progression and works both ways.
If the camera uses older Euro markings the speeds are most likely 1/2/5/10/20/50/100/200-250.

 

[forwhom]

Thanks John!

Well another interesting thing. My Father found an old flash It is a Chinon 3000XP. Looks like this on that camera:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2661/3695039427_b88348e427.jpg


So I tried it and it is works. I am very interested now what will be the outcome. I have 15 shoots left.


Thanks for the reply and I will upload some pictures. Hopefully there will be some good ones.


Bye!

 

[John Koehrer]

That looks like a very compact flash.
Another few things to keep in mind are:
Try to use faster shutter speeds to eliminate camera shake. Many people cannot hold a camera steady @ 1/50 or slower.
See if you can find a book or two on basic photography. Used book store or library.

 

[forwhom]

Thanks John! That is what I wanted to seek! Thanks!

 

[Chan Tran]

I don't think I ever used a box type camera including those kodak instamatic 126 or 110. At age 10 I used my uncle rangefinder camera. At 22 I bought the Nikon F2AS which was the first camera I ever owned. Of course I was born before the 70's.
I wouldn't recommend a box type camera as the first camera, although the disposable ones are of this type and yet you can reuse them too easily if you want, only because the box type camera is difficult to use. I would recommend one with full manual controls.

 

[forwhom]

Well I almost ready with my first roll-film. It is Kodak 200 and it is colour. I can't find black/white roll. So I would like to create and get b/w pictures.

My plan is to go into a shop and develop the film there. Is it possible to ask them to create those pictures as b/w? I think they can do that but I am not sure that this will be ok or not. What do you think? What is the best way to create b/w pictures? I create my ones on a colour roll.

Thanks!