C41 color development issues

[FujiLove]

The original post says you used DIY bleach. What was that mixed from?

Have you already tried re-bleaching/blixing the negatives using fresh chemicals?

What speed are you running your Jobo?

FYI: I wait until I have four or five C41 rolls to process, then mix fresh chemicals for the batch and process them all within two or three hours. I don't keep working strength chemicals. I use separate bleach and fix (Rollei/Digibase kit) and a 2% acetic acid stop between dev and bleach. I add about 33% to the stated times for both bleach and fix (don't have the exact times in front of me, but whatever it says on the Digibase docs). I wash with 4 changes of water for 30s each between bleach and fix and 6 changes after the fix. I dip the film in the stabiliser by hand (small shallow tray) as I find this helps prevent water marks. This has worked flawlessly for me over the past thirty or so rolls.

 

[Truzi]

I don't think the grain is terrible in your examples. To me, it is less obtrusive than debris, water spots, and lingering signs of uneven development - I don't mean this negatively, as you have less of each than my own B&W endeavors thus far (though I think I've worked out the water spots).
Overall, I'd say it looks pretty good. Re-bleach and re-fix as others have suggested and see where that gets you.

Without starting a debate about scanning (or whether we should even discuss it), if you use a setting higher than your scanner's optical resolution, the software interpolation can create "odd" artifacts. Also, the scanning software can do things to "improve" the image, without you asking it to, and this can amplify perceived features when you zoom-in to evaluate. Getting a good scan is an art itself, and DPUG should be able to help with that.

I think the best way to critically evaluate is with a loupe or actual print.

I've only tried "Sun Prints" a few times (http://www.sunprints.org/), but it may be an idea for an easy way to assess the grain and sharpness. There are people here that can tell us how good or bad this idea would be, especially with a color negative.

 

[pentaxuser]

I have just clicked on the outdoor scene of bare trees and white buildings and the indoor sports-hall scene and cannot see any colour cast or grain.

I might be easily pleased of course

pentaxuser

 

[Sirius Glass]

The "grain" is probably digital artifacts which are easily seen in the sky portion of the photograph. Check the negative directly with a magnifying lens and you will see that the "grain" is not there, only the much smaller grain.

 

[SuXarik]

Thanks everyone! Will try, once I get a nice loupe.
Happy New Year to everyone!

 

[kanishka]

What happens if you don't use starter with the replenisher?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Changes in speed and the dreaded crossover take place.

PE

 

[Sirius Glass]

If I remember correctly, starter is used for commercial processing to slow down the fresh developer. It is not needed for small batch uses.

 

[Photo Engineer]

It isn't needed for RA paper (at least back a few years ago), but is needed for C41 due to the Iodide and Bromide balance along with Sulfite and HAS.

PE

 

[Colin DeWolfe]

If I remember correctly, starter is used for commercial processing to slow down the fresh developer. It is not needed for small batch uses.

If you are mixing from lab chemicals (replenisher), even in small batch you need the starter. I've been working through I giant lab batch from a lab that closed down.

 

[SuXarik]

Reviving my old thread!
From January with Yours advice's I was manage to develop more film with different degree of success. Now I got something entirely new. My negative came out green, like emerald green, and extremely dense. Am I right to assume that this is because the developer is dead? As always, thanks.

 

[Rudeofus]

This looks a bit like film that wasn't bleached.

 

[SuXarik]

This looks a bit like film that wasn't bleached.

Except it is not the case)
I've bleached, and then rebleached in another solution.

 

[Rudeofus]

I have a long track record of bleaches and blixes which didn't remove silver

You said you self mixed your bleach, any chance you can tell us which recipe you used?

 

[SuXarik]

I have a long track record of bleaches and blixes which didn't remove silver

You said you self mixed your bleach, any chance you can tell us which recipe you used?

Sure:
Potassium ferricyanide- 20gr
Potassium bromide- 7gr
Water- 500ml

 

[Photo Engineer]

It has the look of film fogged with a red safelight.

PE

 

[SuXarik]

It has the look of film fogged with a red safelight.

PE

That's something new)
I bulk loaded film in total darkness, and every strip before was fine from it was fine

 

[Photo Engineer]

Well, then it is total fog which can take place either by light or by allowing some fix to get into the developer.

PE

 

[SuXarik]

Well, then it is total fog which can take place either by light or by allowing some fix to get into the developer.

PE

Thanks! Will try tomorrow with the same solution, but different film.

 

[Photo Engineer]

But if that solution is contaminated, then if you re-use it you will ruin your film again.

PE

 

[SuXarik]

But if that solution is contaminated, then if you re-use it you will ruin your film again.

PE

THat I understand. I guess couple of shots won't bankrupt me

 

[Mr Bill]

Hi, your film example looks to me like it has not been processed.

At first I was going to say that it's not fixed, and to get it into fixer pronto! But... there is no sign of any image on the emulsion side (tan); this suggests that either your developer is dead, or the film was not exposed. Additionally, the fixer seems to have been skipped, or is also bad.

To check the chemicals, dip a bit of unprocessed film in the fixer - it should "clear" in several minutes. To check the developer, dip a bit of unprocessed film (you can clip a bit of leader from 35mm film) into the developer for several minutes. Do this in the light. If it doesn't darken, then the developer is dead.

 

[Photo Engineer]

It would look that way only with total fog or red safelight fog.

PE

 

[Mr Bill]

It would look that way only with total fog or red safelight fog.

Maybe, but what would be the explanation for each side of the film having a different color? (The photos in post 36 seem to show a shiny "greenish-cyan" side and a duller tan-colored side.) When I look at Dmax (processed) film, held in the same manner as the OP's sample, both sides appear similar - dark.

It should be simple for the OP to determine if it's red-light fog vs unfixed film - simply look at a bright light through the film. If the lamp can be clearly seen through the film, then this indicates normal dye formation (even though possibly fogged). Otherwise, it's not adequately fixed.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Bill, either condition would show the cyan layer and the yellow. We cannot say at this point which, fog or contamination, has caused the problem.

PE