Build a shutter tester for Focal Plane shutters - Cheap, Easy & it Works

[Niglyn]

Oh, yeah, I remember seeing that in the write up. It sounds like a nice option.

Perhaps this has been discussed already, but since I haven't read through all of the posts on this forum, nor all of the excellent documentation you provide (I just wanted to start connecting things up as soon as I stumbled across this design) I didn't see it. Are you going to do a future box build around that PCB?

Hi, yes, 3d print files available for a case, works with pcb or expansion board.

Also new today, enclosures for the sensors and Lasers. They can be configured for vertical or horizontal shutters.
(or both if you want to add switches to toggle sensor output)

Also 3d print files for cutting template if using the project box,
bezel for screen, if using project box.

 

[Niglyn]

Newly uploaded to Github,
Full enclosures for both sensors and Lasers.

Sensor enclosure is designed to mount bare sensors without the module.

A small vero-board can be used (which clips into the enclosure) to solder the sensor onto, add the capacitor and wires.
A build guide will be added, waiting for my vero-board to arrive.
(It would probably be ok to use the compete modules, but I have not tried it)

Two flat parts can be used to hold the sensors in place.
Cable entry can be either left or right and cable grips are the T pieces.
Holes are designed for 2mm screws.

Laser enclosure is designed to use bare Lasers, which come with wire tails, so easier to connect than the modules.
Complete modules can be made to fit by bending the laser away from the board.

 

[Gruby104]

Dear Niglyn,
I have a problem with tester. First of all I managed to build frame with horizontal sensors. But I have serious issue with alignment. Despite the fact that I decided to use better lasers that can be seen on the photo. Laser points directly into sensor"lens" but I got information that it's blocked and I don't know what to do. Only if laser points not directly to the lens (for example upper the lens) tester shows that laser can be seen. I tried to adjust shutter speeds of one of my cameras and it's nearly impossible to do it. The results are really inconsistent if it comes to how classic (copy of ) Leica shutter works (hard slit). And now I struggle to make even one reading cause of this error. And there were two times when whole tester crashed. Please help. Maybe I am wrong with something but this is my first project with ESP 32 ever (I learn how to repair old film cameras )Cheers!
Photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl

 

[Niglyn]

Dear Niglyn,
I have a problem with tester. First of all I managed to build frame with horizontal sensors. But I have serious issue with alignment. Despite the fact that I decided to use better lasers that can be seen on the photo. Laser points directly into sensor"lens" but I got information that it's blocked and I don't know what to do. Only if laser points not directly to the lens (for example upper the lens) tester shows that laser can be seen. I tried to adjust shutter speeds of one of my cameras and it's nearly impossible to do it. The results are really inconsistent if it comes to how classic (copy of ) Leica shutter works (hard slit). And now I struggle to make even one reading cause of this error. And there were two times when whole tester crashed. Please help. Maybe I am wrong with something but this is my first project with ESP 32 ever (I learn how to repair old film cameras )Cheers!
Photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl

Hi, firstly be careful using powerful lasers, you do not want to burn holes in the shutter!

I have never had the firmware in The Shutter Tester crash.

Suggest you temporarily remove the mask in front of the sensors..

Please go into the alignment screen and check the sensors show 'Seen' when the laser is pointing at them & 'blocked' when you cover the Laser.

If it is working backwards, then there is the 'new' old' option to reverse the settings. This is documented in the user guide.

Sensors can be triggered by ambient light and also if near computer or tv screen. I built a little hood to cover mine from sides, rear and above. Just out of a piece of cardboard.

Please let me know how you get on.

 

[Gruby104]

Hi, firstly be careful using powerful lasers, you do not want to burn holes in the shutter!

I have never had the firmware in The Shutter Tester crash.

Suggest you temporarily remove the mask in front of the sensors..

Please go into the alignment screen and check the sensors show 'Seen' when the laser is pointing at them & 'blocked' when you cover the Laser.

If it is working backwards, then there is the 'new' old' option to reverse the settings. This is documented in the user guide.

Sensors can be triggered by ambient light and also if near computer or tv screen. I built a little hood to cover mine from sides, rear and above. Just out of a piece of cardboard.

Please let me know how you get on.

I will make more tests tomorrow but I discovered that adjusting lasers really matters. I mean every laser has got "focusing" knob. I made the tests and when laser is focused on the shutter it increase up to 1/450 from 1/350 on the same shutter speed without any adjustment. Also I managed to get 1/14200 of a sec. on Zorki 4 haha I got an error and I couldn't make a photo but it was something like SS<micoss100 or something like that. Then tester restarted

 

[Niglyn]

I will make more tests tomorrow but I discovered that adjusting lasers really matters. I mean every laser has got "focusing" knob. I made the tests and when laser is focused on the shutter it increase up to 1/450 from 1/350 on the same shutter speed without any adjustment. Also I managed to get 1/14200 of a sec. on Zorki 4 haha I got an error and I couldn't make a photo but it was something like SS<micoss100 or something like that. Then tester restarted

Hi, the distance is only 6 inches, so powerful lasers are not required and you could be overloading the voltage regulator on the ESP32.

The error you see is The Shutter Tester reporting that a very fast speed was recorded. Often caused by PWM lights, computer or tv screen.

 

[Gruby104]

Hi, the distance is only 6 inches, so powerful lasers are not required and you could be overloading the voltage regulator on the ESP32.

The error you see is The Shutter Tester reporting that a very fast speed was recorded. Often caused by PWM lights, computer or tv screen.

So my plan for today would be attaching lasers that I got from AliExpress and making cover from ambient light. Btw the lasers that I use now have power of 5mW. I will test it on every camera that I have.

 

[Gruby104]

Dear Niglyn, I managed to create cover for sensors with light proof black foil. With that I separated every single sensor from reflections from other lasers and also I added big cover that covers whole sensors compartment. Furthermore, I glued sensors to their connectors protect against unwanted movement. As I said earlier I used stock lasers and issue with alignment has gone. I tested It with Pentax S3 that has much more stable shutter than Leica type. Despite the fact that there was no capping effect (I was checking the shutter in slow motion) and I had perfect alignment I have errors that 2 sensor cannot be recorded. Also it seems that tester is unstable cause I managed to regulate the shutter to almost 1/1000 and after the shut down the tester and and then has shown 1/500 maybe this is my mistake but I get you know that. I haven't tested all my cameras yet and I'll do it in the next week. Cheers! Photo: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl

 

[Niglyn]

Dear Niglyn, I managed to create cover for sensors with light proof black foil. With that I separated every single sensor from reflections from other lasers and also I added big cover that covers whole sensors compartment. Furthermore, I glued sensors to their connectors protect against unwanted movement. As I said earlier I used stock lasers and issue with alignment has gone. I tested It with Pentax S3 that has much more stable shutter than Leica type. Despite the fact that there was no capping effect (I was checking the shutter in slow motion) and I had perfect alignment I have errors that 2 sensor cannot be recorded. Also it seems that tester is unstable cause I managed to regulate the shutter to almost 1/1000 and after the shut down the tester and and then has shown 1/500 maybe this is my mistake but I get you know that. I haven't tested all my cameras yet and I'll do it in the next week. Cheers! Photo: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl

31, 32 , 23

Hi, please look at page 31 / 32 of this thread to ensure you do not have one of the faully batch of sensor modules.

If you look at page 23, there is a photo showing a simple cardboard cover I made for the sensors.
The rear of the sensors also needs to be covered if they are affected by stray light.
My tester sits right in front of the compute monitor, hence my little cardboard cover.

I would suggest you dispense with your mask.

 

[Gruby104]

31, 32 , 23

Hi, please look at page 31 / 32 of this thread to ensure you do not have one of the faully batch of sensor modules.

If you look at page 23, there is a photo showing a simple cardboard cover I made for the sensors.
The rear of the sensors also needs to be covered if they are affected by stray light.
My tester sits right in front of the compute monitor, hence my little cardboard cover.

I would suggest you dispense with your mask.

I covered the whole sensors. I put out the main cover in order to show you how did I separate sensors. I also have bought new sensors from my local seller and I will try once again

 

[crispernaki]

Hi Niglyn:

I got things up and running yesterday! Once again, let me say you have put together an awesome project. I'll send better pictures once I get around to bolting everything down, but here is the current state:

I'm going to build up a second set of emitter/detector boxes to have both horizontal and vertical capabilities available. The emitter/detector boxes you designed work really well! Aiming the lasers wasn't too hard, but I've been pondering how you might make aiming even easier. Have you considered leveraging the fact you are 3D printing, and how you could implement a ball/socket in place for each laser? This way, the lasers can be in place and wired up, with the enclosure being closed and mounted, prior to aiming. The lasers could then be aimed precisely from the outside, and locked in place with a bit of glue.

I can sketch something up if my description isn't very clear.

Also, it would be helpful to indicate on the inside of enclosure print which detector is #1 and which is #3. Although I do see the comment above about reversing the order in the settings. COOL!

I still haven't read through all the posting in this thread, so forgive me if this has been discussed already!

 

[Niglyn]

Hi Niglyn:

I got things up and running yesterday! Once again, let me say you have put together an awesome project. I'll send better pictures once I get around to bolting everything down, but here is the current state:

View attachment 416827

Hi crispernaki, thanks for your positive feedback and comments. I always welcome these as it helps to improve the product.


Only yesterday, I uploaded a better box for the Lasers. Rather than the Lasers being mounted in the lid, they are now in the main box.
I am also using Lasers that are loose and not mounted on a module. These are much easier to work with.
(Details of these will be included in the new build guide - coming soon).

With both boxes mounted on a base, it is now much easier to align the Lasers.
Still a bit fiddly I know, a blob of hot-glue on the Laser and having to hold it until it cools.

I think a ball & socket might be too fiddly to print & being behind the Laser, multiplies any movement in use.
It might be better to have the front of the Laser fixed and the rear moved up/down/left/right.

I can see how to do this, however it starts to get complex & I don't think 3d printers are accurate enough, so extra precision drilling & reaming would be required. Hopefully the new box and hot-glue will work satisfactorily.


It is possible to use one box for both horizontal and vertical sensors (theoretically). A 2 pole two way toggle switch is required, fitted to the sensor box. Then the outer two horizontal and vertical sensors can be wired via the switch, to select horizontal or vertical.

The Lasers could also be switched in the same way. All five could be left on, but I am concerned about the current loading of the 3v regulator on the ESP32 board.

I need to slightly modify the 3d printed T piece for the Sensor box. It works fine for horizontal sensors, but obstructs the legs of the top vertical sensor. It only needs a hole added, for the sensor legs to protrude.

This week, I have been making a new testing frame using the new 3d printable sensor/Laser boxes and photographing each step, which will be used for a new build guide.

I might even make a video ) Now I have got the hang of making them. I have a few tubes, demonstrating my shutter alignment jig & other camera repair tools..