Hi everyone,
I'm currently working on an ESP32 shutter tester. Despite the fact that the main computer is working perfectly, I am having serious issues with the light meter and the optical shutter tester (LED matrix) (MAX7219CWG 2530+). The matrix has shown signs of a bad connection, as it hasn't worked properly (sometimes random LEDs were flashing). I only managed to turn it on properly once. I decided to fix the connections on the matrix board and resolder the connections with the DIN connector, but suddenly the matrix started turning off the whole system (it needs resetting, and then everything works smoothly). The case with the light meter module is different because the ESP can't read it. Even during the system's boot process, it says that the BH1750 is not connected. Everything has been checked with an electronic multimeter, and there are no short circuits, and both the matrix and the light meter connections are good.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl?usp=drive_link (photos of shutter tester)
Hi everyone,Hi everyone,
I'm currently working on an ESP32 shutter tester. Despite the fact that the main computer is working perfectly, I am having serious issues with the light meter and the optical shutter tester (LED matrix) (MAX7219CWG 2530+). The matrix has shown signs of a bad connection, as it hasn't worked properly (sometimes random LEDs were flashing). I only managed to turn it on properly once. I decided to fix the connections on the matrix board and resolder the connections with the DIN connector, but suddenly the matrix started turning off the whole system (it needs resetting, and then everything works smoothly). The case with the light meter module is different because the ESP can't read it. Even during the system's boot process, it says that the BH1750 is not connected. Everything has been checked with an electronic multimeter, and there are no short circuits, and both the matrix and the light meter connections are good.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl?usp=drive_link (photos of shutter tester)
Moderator edit: these are the relevant snippets of the images on the link above:
Hi, 3d printed case worked great. Files on Github. I used PLA.
The Authorisation code is unique to each build.
So until you build The Shutter Tester and load the firmware to display your unique
Authorisation code, I cannot generate the pass key.
Sorry to hear of your back problems, I hope the therapy works well.
Hi everyone,
I'm currently working on an ESP32 shutter tester. Despite the fact that the main computer is working perfectly, I am having serious issues with the light meter and the optical shutter tester (LED matrix) (MAX7219CWG 2530+). The matrix has shown signs of a bad connection, as it hasn't worked properly (sometimes random LEDs were flashing). I only managed to turn it on properly once. I decided to fix the connections on the matrix board and resolder the connections with the DIN connector, but suddenly the matrix started turning off the whole system (it needs resetting, and then everything works smoothly). The case with the light meter module is different because the ESP can't read it. Even during the system's boot process, it says that the BH1750 is not connected. Everything has been checked with an electronic multimeter, and there are no short circuits, and both the matrix and the light meter connections are good.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl?usp=drive_link (photos of shutter tester)
Moderator edit: these are the relevant snippets of the images on the link above:
View attachment 414550
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Dear Gruby14,
I've seen the pictures and I'm sorry to say but your soldering joints are very bad. You have to use a FLUX when you solder these delicate PCB's. In my case I use "Chipquik " but there are a lot others on the market.
I also don't know what kind of soldering iron you use but please take care that the temperature is OK and that you work with a fine and clean tip.
Resolder all joints with the aid of flux and try again. If the problem persists then probably something is toasted :-(
maybe this will help you : https://www.pcbasic.com/blog/how_to_solder_wires_to_a_circuit_board.html
kind regards and nice year's ending
I hope this will help you in resolving the issue .
Update:
Have tested The Shutter Tester with LED Matrix and Light Sensor.
Everything works fine.
My issue yesterday was with a Dupont connector being loose and making a poor contact (which is why I prefer JST XH connectors)
There are two new schematic PDF files on Github, replacing the earlier ones.
One shows all optional module wiring connected
and the second is simplified, showing only the main connections.
Wiring connections remains the same,
but colours of a few wires has changed for the LED Matrix & LCD, to make wire identification clearer
and orange as a wire colour no longer used, as this colour is not in the connector kit.
Some of the build documents are/will be updated,
highlighting the current issue with china mixing up the 22.5 & 25mm expansion boards,
adding details of 3d enclosure etc.
I checked connections once again and everything is properly connected. So is I understand it correctly I should use 4.0.0.9 version
I agree that I'm not very good at soldering. But unfortunately, I've never soldered such connections before, and on top of that, the tip of my soldering iron tends to melt, which doesn't help. However, I managed to make the right connections where there are no short circuits in either the light meter module or the optical tester.
Hi, latest version should work fine. Problem my end was loose dupont connector.
I would suggest not connecting the LED Matrix or the SD card slot, as these are on the same bus as the TFT.
Connect the light-meter and get this working first. This runs on the 2ic bus, which is only used for the light-sensor (assuming you do not have the LCD)
Optional Light SensorGY-302
module ESP32 Pin Wire Colour
ADDR - GND Black
SDA 21 White
SCL 22 Yellow
GND GND Black
VCC 5V Red
To be honest, the LED matrix and light sensor are not that useful. Most people do not bother with them.
Thanks for joining Photrio, and participating in this thread.
And as for the criticism of your soldering, it would probably be best to read it as a form of "tough support", rather than anything like condemnation.
My soldering days are in the distant past, but as I recall it, and as I expect others here will agree, one of the problems with solder joints like those is that they tend to fail in a relatively short period of time, and when they fail, troubleshooting the failure is a difficult challenge.
But I will say - good for you for what you have accomplished so far.
Couldn't you just select all items in Cura and move them together? Seems like an easy enough workaround to me.
Dear Niglyn, I started to 3d print the parts. When I open some files in Cura to slice it seems that most of the parts are placed at the edge of the building plate. That's not a big deal to move them to the center but I have a few parts that are composed out of several individual parts that are not grouped . One example is "TheShutterTesterBox v15.3mf"that consists out of two parts. Is this the intention or should they be considered as one.
Attached you can find a a snip of the moved main box in Cura but there is a window that stays if you do not move them as a group.
Would it be possible to guide me in this matter ?
Soldering is an art and skill to be learned. Luckily in this modern age, there will be tuition videos on the tube.
It is a skill worth learning.
Hi, thanks for all your help with soldering. I bought proper solder and suddenly new light meter module started to work properly. I managed to build first prototype laser/sensor module. I build it in a way that I can test horizontal and vertical focal plane shutters. There is also a mask in front of sensor with 1mm holes for better accuracy. What do you think, 1mm is a good option or this is just an overkill and there is no need for that.
Of course when everything will be tested I wil cover the sensors with black case. There is a problem with this design that I cannot put every camera in this tester for example zenit 12xp because one of sensor is covered due to the mirror box mechanism. So I'm thinking of making two different laser/sensor modules. One for horizontal shutters and one for vertical. What would you recommend? Or just making shorter distance from 32 mm apart to 30.
I think this is the came case (or not) with an error that can be seen on the photo cause I got it really often. I got cosina hi lite I I don't know why I just can't test it because of this error (sensor2) and even though all three sensor are seen when the shutter is open, still there is no option to test it. But I think it's because sensor 2 laser is much more weaker than other two.
Link for photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JYlTyYjR-IeasL_swDsMy5MfkJgbeMOl
(My photos are too big)
Hi, yes 60/40 lead solder is far better than this wokey stuff.
1mm mask is perfect.
32mm sensor spacing should work fine for the Zenit.
However, I do not recommend arranging the sensors diagonally. It makes alignment far more difficult.
It is far better to have two frames, one for vertical and one for horizontal shutters.
This could be an indication of shutter capping. Curtain 1 catching up with curtain 2 at the end of the shutter cycle.
It usually happens at higher shutter speeds.
The Shutter Tester is doing it's job and telling you there is an issue with the camera.
I would suggest arranging the sensors/Lasers in a straight line, not diagonally (so much easier to align).
Then test the camera on B. (both curtains should be fully open) to ensure you get a reading.
Then 1/30s , 1/60s etc until you get the error.
The other thing you can do is use 'Single Sensor Mode'.
You can then position the single laser right at the edge of the film gate and make a test. Then in the middle and again at the end.
If you get a reading in the middle but not at one or both ends, it is an indication of shutter capping.
If you have a phone/camera with slo-mo function, back-lighting the curtains and then filming allows one to see what the shutter is doing.
Looks good!
I have a pcb available, which simplifies wiring, but postage to the USA will probably be too expensive.
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