Budget/DIY darkroom sink options?

[Paul Howell]

If your up for drive, on Ebay South Carolina.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arkay-72-Darkroom-Sink/174473064549?hash=item289f67b065:g:dqIAAOSwFBlfgaFA

 

[Craig]

I did something a bit different, I built a plywood "tub" then bought a sheet of acrylic plastic and ran it through my tablesaw to the size I wanted and lined the inside of the plywood frame with the plastic. I siliconed the pieces together to allow some movement, as it does expand and contract with temperature. If I run hot water over one end I can see the plastic expand. I used a shower floor drain at one end and built it on a slight slope so the sink would drain.

 

[mattvo]

Try looking at used industrial kitchen equipment. Theres some high quality stuff to be had at low prices if it fits your needs

 

[Peter Schrager]

Simple just use plywood and marine paint and caulk
I repaint every couple of years but lasts and lasts

 

[Rudolf Karachun]

Check out this things
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...-barrel/spill-containment/2-drum-budget-basin
2 of them next to each other can make a nice waterproof sink, you just need to build a support and add a drain assembly available for the kitchen sinks in the Home Depo.

 

[David Reynolds]

I built a plywood sink and coated it with fiberglass and it lasted for 25 years until I retired .

 

[visualprose]

My current darkroom sink I built five years ago. It started as a simple 1x12 box with a 2x2 frame inside to hold the sink bed. The frame was designed to provide drainage to the middle, but one could slope it to a back corner as well. The bed is half-inch marine plywood. The corners between bed and wall were fared with marine epoxy. The whole thing was primed and painted with marine paint. I'm more than happy with it.

Here's a picture of it during installation (minus faring, drain and final topcoats of paint):

View attachment 256726

It sits on 2x4s lagged to the wall studs and on the supports used to make under-sink storage.

I've got plans somewhere still in pdf form. Just PM me if you're interested; I'd be happy to share them.

Best,

Doremus

visualprose in Oregon asking if you still are about and if you might still have your PDF. I am wondering if instead of fiber glass, can the Schluder (orange german material used in shower tub beds). Your sink looks good, hoping these years later it isn't so prestine white. Thanks; jml

 

[visualprose]

Anyone still into home printing, processing? QUESTION: has anyone considered using the german 'Schluder' material on their tub? The system is a waterproofing membrane used in modern shower, tub, construction. It is orange in colour. Hoping to use said material, will post results upon initial wet line operation.

 

[btaylor]

I have used the US version of this membrane in my darkroom sink for about 10 years. Works great and is super easy to install- 2x4’s create the edges (broad and rounded), simple cheap OSB ply screwed together for the flat surface. 1/2” per foot decline down to a standard shower drain. I built a plywood and fiberglass sink years ago, it was great but took a lot of effort and materials and was functionally no different.

 

[Tel]

I'm getting started on a basement darkroom. For a sink, I got a big plastic tub intended for use in masonry, for mixing large batches of mortar. I paid less than $30 for it.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

visualprose in Oregon asking if you still are about and if you might still have your PDF. I am wondering if instead of fiber glass, can the Schluder (orange german material used in shower tub beds). Your sink looks good, hoping these years later it isn't so prestine white. Thanks; jml

Hi visualprose,

I do have hand-drawn plans (on gridded paper from OMV in Austria ) for my sink still. Mostly legible if you study them a bit. I made a couple of small modifications when building the sink that aren't in the plans, but they are pretty inconsequential; the basic concept was the same. PM me with your email address if you still want them.

As for Schluter membrane (I think it's a "t," not a "d"); you may be able to use that for waterproofing. I'm not sure what kind of a work surface it would make or how robust it would be as a work surface though.

And, my sink is still (almost) as pristine white; I used topside marine paint on the sink so whenever it gets cracks or too stained I just sand it down and repaint (takes about 30 minutes for the whole inside). I've repainted twice in the years I've had it.

One thing I didn't mention in the original post: my sink splash boards are the same height all around, which enables me lay pieces of countertop (properly cushioned and provided with stops to keep them from slipping) on top of the sink. I have four pieces for a total of 10 feet of counter space. I can use one to all four pieces to create a countertop work surface, which I use for dry-mounting, cutting mat board, framing prints, etc. when the sink isn't in use. Then it's just remove and store the countertop segments when I want to switch back to printing/film developing.

Best,

Doremus

 

[Craig]

As for Schluter membrane (I think it's a "t," not a "d"); you may be able to use that for waterproofing. I'm not sure what kind of a work surface it would make or how robust it would be as a work surface though.

It is Schluter, and I think the membrane you are referring to is called Kerdi-flex. It's intended for showers and similar, and intended to be installed in a bed of thinset mortar and tile put over top. The usual way to use it is a bed of thinset mortar is put on the wall or floor of a shower, the kerdi is pressed into the mortar to ensure it is well adhered. Once that mortar is cured, then another layer of thinset is applied over top and tiles set into that mortar. It's not intended to be used alone and uncovered.

 

[GregY]

I built mine of of 3/4"plywood & called the deck & hot tub guys.... My sink is lined w Duradeck. The room only smelled of glue for a day or so

 

[btaylor]

It is Schluter, and I think the membrane you are referring to is called Kerdi-flex. It's not intended to be used alone and uncovered.

Yes, its intended use is as an underlayment.
Yet it works just fine alone and uncovered as my sink lining, and has for a decade. Just sayin’…

 

[Charles O'Connor]

I have been using a potable ice table for a few years. would love a permanent sink but need flexibility in garage. Drains to a bucket and faucet attaches to a board on the back.

 

[Mal Paso]

5 years ago I put 1x3 sides on a piece of 1/2" plywood and painted it with exterior latex. The latex will soften with constant water contact but it works fine for print trays as the chemistry is only good for a day or two and that's not long enough to soften the paint.

The "sink" sits atop a food service rack from Costco providing storage. The sink is watertight to prevent splashes and spills from getting to the storage. I have plans for the future but this is good enough for now.

 

[Chuck_P]

I just recently finished my sink also from 3/4 inch plywood, coated with an epoxy paint.

 

[wiltw]

I just recently finished my sink also from 3/4 inch plywood, coated with an epoxy paint.

Boaters are aware of West System Epoxy, been used for decades in boat hull fabrication...clearish epoxy resin used in the fabrication of wood layup sailboat hulls. Extremely durable (hard to sand off!) Fills gaps, you do not really need to use fiberglass cloth at the angles between bottom and sides if you cannot look thru and see a lot of light in the gap. Perfect for construction of darkroom sink using plywood panels, without the need to periodically repaint the surface.
Here is a photo of a boat made with resin https://www.yachtsandyachting.com/news/229336/Building-a-wooden-dinghy-with-epoxy-resin-part-3

 

[Treebird]

Doremus, May I please have a copy of your sink plans?

Rembeteresa@yahoo.com

Trying to build a darkroom in a large bathroom.

Teresa

 

[Atomic_03]

Is it better to build you own sink as shown before or to just go and get a stainless one? I know I can build a sink for a few hundred dollars with what other stuff I have lying around however I can also buy a stainless one for about 700 by me as someone is selling one. What would be the better route?

Building one would allow me to make a couple customizations to it for my image processor…

 

[Mal Paso]

If the stainless sink fits your space and needs it is generally far superior. Look for existing rust as photo chemistry will accelerate that. 316 "photo" stainless is better than what is generally used for restaurant sinks. I built mine with fiberglassed plywood as space was limited and I got more work space that way.

 

[grain elevator]

Also the stainless will probably have much higher re-sale value. Go for it if you can and it suits you!

 

[cliveh]

If you want a really cheap sink, you could always use a cardboard tray lined with a plastic bin liner. It would still do the job.

 

[In_the_Pines_82]

My current darkroom sink I built five years ago. It started as a simple 1x12 box with a 2x2 frame inside to hold the sink bed. The frame was designed to provide drainage to the middle, but one could slope it to a back corner as well. The bed is half-inch marine plywood. The corners between bed and wall were fared with marine epoxy. The whole thing was primed and painted with marine paint. I'm more than happy with it.

Here's a picture of it during installation (minus faring, drain and final topcoats of paint):

View attachment 256726

It sits on 2x4s lagged to the wall studs and on the supports used to make under-sink storage.

I've got plans somewhere still in pdf form. Just PM me if you're interested; I'd be happy to share them.

Best,

Doremus

My current darkroom sink I built five years ago. It started as a simple 1x12 box with a 2x2 frame inside to hold the sink bed. The frame was designed to provide drainage to the middle, but one could slope it to a back corner as well. The bed is half-inch marine plywood. The corners between bed and wall were fared with marine epoxy. The whole thing was primed and painted with marine paint. I'm more than happy with it.

Here's a picture of it during installation (minus faring, drain and final topcoats of paint):

View attachment 256726

It sits on 2x4s lagged to the wall studs and on the supports used to make under-sink storage.

I've got plans somewhere still in pdf form. Just PM me if you're interested; I'd be happy to share them.

Best,

Doremus

Hi, did you just use the rustoleum primer and topside paint, or spar as first coat to seal it?

 

[MTGseattle]

I think we've already fallen into the weeds in another diy darkroom sink thread regarding what will last, what will not and general feasibility of the diy route.

financial budget, time availability and diy skills. You need to figure out how these 3 things directly affect you.

I would suspect that being in the DC area, there should be some architectural salvage, some restaurant equipment supply places, and a lively secondary market (craigslist, fb marketplace, etc) I would scan/ look at those sources and see if anything works, then figure out time/cost to acquire the used items and whether further modifications needed render the used/salvage item make any sense.
There are a ton of nicely built diy sinks in these forums, short of the "right" thing popping up for free, I would definitely build my own but I am a carpenter by trade which irons out some of the kinks for a person that may/may not own all of the tools I have available to me.

If you go down the plywood route, at least upgrade to something with an "A" face. it will be much easier to finish regardless of your finish choice (but it will cost more).