Are you serious?
I'm giving the OP an answer he can accept. Since he doesn't seem to get the quite reasonable and accurate ones that have been offered previously, I'm trying the "sounds good" approach, rather than the "is good" approach. Certainly you gentlemen aren't suggesting that there is NOT silver in those prints!
What satisfaction do you demand sir? or am I to assume that you mean "satisfaction for me?Lots of reasonable answers, but still no satisfaction from the OP
I'm giving the OP an answer he can accept. Since he doesn't seem to get the quite reasonable and accurate ones that have been offered previously, I'm trying the "sounds good" approach, rather than the "is good" approach. Certainly you gentlemen aren't suggesting that there is NOT silver in those prints!
The light bounced around inside the film and resulted in a lot of the glow.
I was recently wondering why older black and white films tend to have a more silver tone than grey, this was mostly due to watching 8 ½ (cine film I know, but arent they essentially the same? if not at the very least manufactured by the same companies - 8 ½ was shot on Kodak film) and looking at pictures of stars from the silent movie era.
Is there a difference in the way modern film is made? Has the desire for a truer tonality meant that greys are more realistic than they were, or were the old plate techniques just inherently different because of said technique?
So anyway, while Im a huge fan of modern black and white films, I do really miss that silver tone... maybe its because the world is grey enough as it is or an inherited nostalgia, either way, I was hoping to find some modern film that has the same characteristics as these older films.
I never shot any real super professional film or fine art film, mostly just the regular commercial type, so maybe the answer is there.
Does anyone know of a modern film that has a silver tone?
The answer may lie in the development process or possibly even the makeup techniques of the time rather than the film, so if anyone knows now is the time to speak up.
Thanks
Dafydd
Haven't read all the posts so maybe I am repeating what others may have said.
I have noticed larger format films being able to produce prints that have a silvery glow. Lots of this has to do with larger film therefore tighter grain when magnified, as well with proper exposure and development , which in turns creates a longer tonal range in the negative.
With this in place the printer can in fact concentrate on areas of the tonal scale within a image and create local contrast boosts which has an overall effect of making the print glow.
If you set maximum blacks and starting from there make sure that you are not compressing tonal range as you build the image, one can pull out much more separation which then allows the viewer to see deeper into an image. When you are setting your highlights its not only a matter of placing tone there, but as well increasing the contrast by making the deep tones within the highlights deeper.
Split Printing has its advantages in this case and by keeping your mind on all areas of the print and trying to create separation in local areas you can achieve a print that has a silvery glow. not to mention toning which can greatly influence this visual effect.
I think with todays materials it is very possible to create glowing prints... I believe this is what you are seeing very simply a visual manipulation.
the second more than the first.
the greys on the first one are almost there, but seem slightly "flatter" like I'd imagine on normal modern film. Would the second be explained by the lighting and the thinner nature of petals?
The second was done with shallow tungsten lights, actually quite contrasty shallow light to emphasize surface texture. A little bit of broad light, but mostly side light. The film was also pushed out of necessity, but I find that this also boosts grain and micro contrast, lending to surface texture in some cases. Both were on 5x7 fp/hp film.
Back to my conversation with Hurrell's lab assistant and similar old-timers. They'd often shoot with
11x14 film to get as much surface area to fool with as possible. It wasn't just the nature of the large
format films and portrait-style lenses (which was important), but they'd also use that big toothy
retouching surface of the film to smear around various retouching pencils and selectively scatter
the light for a particular complexion glow or subtle diffusion. Creocin dye was also frequently used,
which can be very subtly built up to automatically dodge/burn. These are both lost arts which can
easily be reconstructed for those willing to practice, and can be employed with a lot more ease and subtlety than the current Fauxtoshop tricks. If you don't want to mess with the film itself you can
register a piece of frosted mylar and smear stuff on that or apply the dye - a nice way to experiment
with or without options.
Lillian Bassin's [...] Creocin Dye use in a very artistic manner.
I can't help feeling that flower petals will reflect/absorb light differently to skin anyway, non?
Photography is visual alchemy; if you know your technicals and have a clear vision, you can have your subject say whatever you need to say.
Photography is visual alchemy; if you know your technicals and have a clear vision, you can have your subject say whatever you need to say
Regarding the flower specifically, aside from the effective lighting, what I would have personally done
to get this effect is to take something like TMax 400 and actually underexpose it about a stop for
intense empty blacks in the low zoned, but most important, overdevelop it to greatly expand the midtones and upper highlights. I mention this particular film because it has a relatively steep section
at the bottom of the curve and works better than something with a long toe. Old school Super-XX
would have done it too. Other films will work, but the nice thing about large format is that you can
choose your films based on tonality and worry less about grain. The exact type of pan sensitivity
can also be a factor in things like this, and old-school films do (or did) differ from what is commonly
used today. But there are really any number of ways to pull this off, depending on one's favorite
bag of tricks. I prefer lower lighting ratios (softer light), then seriously expanded midtone dev.
Photography is visual alchemy
can that actually be true?
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