Are any of you using diopters for the Mamiya RB67 waist lever viewfinder? Do you have spare ones?

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Neil Poulsen

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I used one, when I had an RB67 system. It made a big difference; it enabled me to focus the image through the prism finder properly.
 
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I used one, when I had an RB67 system. It made a big difference; it enabled me to focus the image through the prism finder properly.

Thanks, I have not tried a prism finder yet. That is on my list.

Update:

I have several updates to share with you all later this month (too busy to sit down and write everything out in detail and include footage/pics at the moment). I have not solved the problem yet.

At some point I will drop a few comments and possibly a review of a focus checking device I tried out. I made a clip with a quick view of that device and a recap of my frustration so far :smile:.
 
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Hello again

If you thought this saga was over, guess again! I will be back at some point in May with a new update that includes everything I did not mention back in March and some recommendations for things to try out. You will probably find it interesting. This thread will be worth linking to for people struggling with issues.

One quick note about the video linked in my last post:

Thanks, I have not tried a prism finder yet. That is on my list.

Update:

I have several updates to share with you all later this month (too busy to sit down and write everything out in detail and include footage/pics at the moment). I have not solved the problem yet.

At some point I will drop a few comments and possibly a review of a focus checking device I tried out. I made a clip with a quick view of that device and a recap of my frustration so far :smile:.

I left Instagram for now so that link above is dead. I will replace it at some point.

Do you have a RB67 waist level viewfinder you aren't using?

I might be interested in picking it up. I broke mine after the wind carried away my tripod for a test shoot for this thread.

See you soon.

 
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Hello again

If you thought this saga was over, guess again! I will be back at some point in May with a new update that includes everything I did not mention back in March and some recommendations for things to try out. You will probably find it interesting. This thread will be worth linking to for people struggling with issues.

I'm late - very, very late. However, that's because I have been busy working through this when I get the time. Some relevant updates follow for anyone interested.

I decided to learn how to 3D print so I can build an accessory that should help me work around this problem. Here's a progress pic:



Sam Cohen from Frankinstax was part of my inspiration to try this because the RB67 accessory he printed for me a few months ago was so useful for investigating this issue. I've been meaning to make an updated clip related to that. I left IG and my old one isn't available anymore.

My first* three 3D prints

Here are some links to pictures, the free print STLs, and comments on the resulting prints if you're interested. They're all simple, practical prints for RB67 owners. I'll probably start the main accessory print to get back to this focusing issue next weekend because I have enough experience now.

Print 1

Print 2

Print 3




*besides a calibration print and a Benchy.

I will be back at some point in May with a new update that includes everything I did not mention back in March and some recommendations for things to try out. You will probably find it interesting. This thread will be worth linking to for people struggling with issues.
I've left out several bits to avoid a mountain of text. I'll keep it pithy with a final recap at some point.

Scans?

I've shot more frames with the RB67 since April. However, I haven't scanned very many because my current set up takes too much time. I will probably 3D print a film holder soon to solve that issue and share some observations. I have a few landscapes and portraits.

 
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Hey there,

I just finished the Frankinstax Mini build. I still need to test the adapter with film in the morning but I've confirmed the battery and roller are working. Also, the back fits the body. I linked the STLs and designer (David, O.G. Frankinstax) in the Imgur link below.





I predict this should help because now I can take a test frame or two to prejudge focus and determine the approximate DOF visually for important pictures. Over time I could get a more intuitive sense of what's "in focus" even if I don't necessarily "perceive" it that way in the WLVF. Maybe.

If you're using an instant film back on your RB67 and you have any insight on the idea above please share it. I'm not sure if any of you are still following this thread at this point. I wouldn't blame you because it has been a saga.

Coincidentally, I just watched a video a professional photographer made about why he stopped using film. One of his major complaints was that he couldn't reliably achieve sharp focus with medium format film cameras (03:20). It makes me wonder how many people quietly shelve film for this reason:

 
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Hello

I just realized I haven't updated this thread in a while. Read on if you're curious. We can consider this the conclusion.

My Frankinstax Mini build was a success. You can watch a short video of my build process here. I also included a video demonstration of its operation during a photoshoot.



You can see high-resolution scans of some Instax frames to judge them for sharpness at the end of my article here. Remember that Instax film is not as sharp as a negative, and they're blown up to a much larger size on that page. You can tell that they're clearly in focus in person.

Also, here's a web resolution scan of an RB67 frame I took after using the Frankinstax Mini the way I described I would here:

I predict this should help because now I can take a test frame or two to prejudge focus and determine the approximate DOF visually for important pictures. Over time I could get a more intuitive sense of what's "in focus" even if I don't necessarily "perceive" it that way in the WLVF. Maybe.

The image is sharp:



Final Thoughts

1. I confirmed that there isn't an issue with the camera body itself with various methods, including the opinion of a professional repairman.

2. The camera is still a pain to focus on. I need to do a song and dance to get tack-sharp results. That means determining DOF at the aperture and subject distance, slowly focusing with my third-party bright screen, locking the focus wheel, exposing a test frame with the Frankinstax Mini, and then swapping to the film back. It's easier to get sharp images on any other format I use (135, 6x6 TLR, 4x5).

3. I don't see complaints like mine online. It could be that most people are blessed with better eyes. If you struggle like I do, I suggest you send your camera to a professional for a check first, then decide if you want to switch to a more eye-friendly format. You may find 4x5 more comfortable. I do.
 
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