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Anyone using Ilford ART 300?

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cirwin2010

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I've now printed a few negs on ART 300. I must say I love the emulsion and love the way it tones but I can't get past the "eggshell" surface, it never looks truly sharp to me. It would be great to have this emulsion on a glossy paper!

I have only used a few sheets of this paper, but I find that it would be a situational pick for my work. The texture of the surface can obscure small details and "interrupt" smooth areas of the image. However, I think it could be a good choice for images that have texture you want to enhance. It also seems to do a decent job with disguising areas of slight missed focus depending on the scene.

Depending on your lighting I do find that the eggshell sheen can make it difficult to make out detail in zone 3 of the image.
 

logan2z

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Resurrecting an old thread, but I've been looking for a more textured silver gelatin paper in order to make some prints and Ilford Art300 piqued my interest. The work is comprised of landscapes shot on my Holga and I was thinking this might be a good match for Art300, given that sharp detail isn't a priority for this sort of work.

For reference, I've included a couple of sample images below. The prints will be 7 1/2 x 7 1/2" on 8x10" paper.

I'm wondering a) if this sort of subject matter is a good match for the paper and b) if prints of this size will work well with the paper texture or if it works better with larger prints.

It would be great to get some input from users of this paper before I buy a box - it's pretty expensive at the moment.

xSnPtwv.jpeg


MkIfjvU.jpeg
 

Don_ih

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I think those would be a good match for the paper. I think the size will be fine, also. It gets contrasty pretty easily, so you'll want to watch out for big patches of black in those images.
 

Pieter12

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It should work fine. The blacks are velvety and the texture shows mostly in large, even, light areas. The emulsion is delicate when wet and so is the watercolor paper base, so don't over-soak or over-wash, handle the prints gently until they are dry. I screen-dry emulsion side up, then flatten in a dry mount press. Finished prints can be stunning. Since the paper itself is slightly warm, the overall look is too. I use it for figure work, I can post a comparison print on FB glossy & Art later in the day.
 

logan2z

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The emulsion is delicate when wet and so is the watercolor paper base

I use print drums rather than trays to make prints. Do you think the emulsion will hold up to being in the curved drum throughout the development process?
 
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Don_ih

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In a print drum, you may experience some furring at the edges (puffing of the paper and flaking of the emulsion). But it won't extend into your image if it's only 7.5" wide. This paper stains very easily if it is not thoroughly acid stopped before putting in fixer. I found it necessary to let it sit in stop for a full minute (I could watch it bubbling) before fixing.
 

GregY

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I use print drums rather than trays to make prints. Do you think the emulsion will hold up to being in the curved drum throughout the development process?

I haven't found Art 300 to be particularly fragile
 

logan2z

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In a print drum, you may experience some furring at the edges (puffing of the paper and flaking of the emulsion). But it won't extend into your image if it's only 7.5" wide.

Just curious, why would this paper flake at the edges when using it in a print drum? I haven’t experienced any flaking with Ilford Multigrade FB glossy, but perhaps that’s because it’s emulsion is less fragile.

This paper stains very easily if it is not thoroughly acid stopped before putting in fixer. I found it necessary to let it sit in stop for a full minute (I could watch it bubbling) before fixing.

I’ve read that. I use Kodak Indicator Stop Bath and agitate continually for 30 seconds. If that’s not sufficient for this paper then I can extend that to a full minute instead.
 

cirwin2010

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In my short excursion trying the paper I found the following.

-appears to be a warm tone emulsion
-Turns chocolate brown in selenium
-Texture can obscure fine details (can be pro or con)
-sheen is unlike any other paper I've seen, inkjet included

I personally did not care for it when compared to standard glossy paper, but I think could add another dimension with certain types of photographs. I would probably give it another try if I could ever figure out how to get my holga to expose properly.
 

Dusty Negative

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This paper stains very easily if it is not thoroughly acid stopped before putting in fixer. I found it necessary to let it sit in stop for a full minute (I could watch it bubbling) before fixing.

Very easily, indeed. Fresh chemistry and at least 60 seconds in the Stop (I do two minutes) in my experience.
 

Don_ih

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why would this paper flake at the edges when using it in a print drum?

I guess that because the water is continuously flowing over the paper and "hitting" the edges, so maybe there will be more liquid absorbed into the edge than if it was sitting in a tray. The paper is already a bit of a sponge. It will soak more into it at the edges. Before I extended my stop time, the edges were where the worst staining would occur - suggesting much more developer soaked in there than through the surfaces.

Regular Ilford fb doesn't stain as readily as Art does.
 

Pieter12

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As promised, a comparison shot. There is quite a bit of dodging and burning on this, so they are not a perfect match, but you certainly get the overall difference in look. Sorry about the reflections.

Paper comparison.jpg
 

Don_ih

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Well, to be honest, I've never found Art 300 that far off white. I don't know why yours is, Pieter.
 

logan2z

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As promised, a comparison shot. There is quite a bit of dodging and burning on this, so they are not a perfect match, but you certainly get the overall difference in look. Sorry about the reflections.

View attachment 411411

Thanks so much for posting the comparison, much appreciated.

I've read here and elsewhere that the paper is pretty contrasty and has good blacks. I don't know if it's the aesthetic choices you and others have made or the way the paper photographs, but the depth of the blacks and the overall contrast of the paper looks quite a bit lower than the MGFB paper. I saw something similar in the video posted several years ago by Chris Wartwood on his Grain channel on YouTube. Here's a screen capture from that video in which he shows an untoned print on the right and a Selenium toned version on the left:

ZlwoMIs.png


The untoned print looks pretty low contrast to my eyes. Maybe just the contrast choice he made and/or the way the paper appears when photographed.
 

Don_ih

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Developer?

What did you use? And I mean the paper base. I think I only used D72.

Here's a screen capture from that video in which he shows an untoned print on the right and a Selenium toned version on the left:

I'd consider the print on the right underdone. I'd be surprised if toning in selenium was enough to make the right print look like the left one.
 

GregY

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What did you use? And I mean the paper base. I think I only used D72.



I'd consider the print on the right underdone. I'd be surprised if toning in selenium was enough to make the right print look like the left one.

Yes. Agreed! That's been my experience
 

logan2z

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OK, I broke down and ordered a box of 8x10" sheets. I hope someone here who likes the paper will buy the remainder from me if I don't like it šŸ˜‹
 

MattKing

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Be prepared to adjust to its desire to float! :smile:
 

MattKing

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Or if you prefer some accompanying music, Canadian astronaut Chris Hadfield:
 
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