Anyone know how to use the Durst RCP 40 Vario?

bottlegardener · Nov 29, 2017

Hi all,

I just acquired an inexpensive and relatively clean-looking but also very large(!) Durst RCP 40 Vario (I'd been looking for simple 11x14 colour print drum, didn't have any luck, so I bought this on a whim).
It did not include the instruction manual and I cannot find it online.

Just wondering if anyone has any clues how to use it?
Would it be appropriate to run some test paper through with plain water in the tanks?

So far the best info I could find came from this French-language forum. The poster says he had good luck using it for RA4 and it takes 5 litres of both dev and blix. He advises emptying the chemicals and storing them in an airtight bottle after use, rinsing the tanks and making sure the inlet rollers are clean: http://objectif-argentique.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=78

*update* I decided to go for it. it runs.
Still wondering if anyone has any more info that wouldn't be intuitive.

btaylor · Nov 29, 2017

I have a recently acquired Beseler processor as well as a Durst Printo. In the old days I dreamed of being able to buy one of these machines or the Durst RCP, I could only afford drums. The machines are really simple. I measured the time it took for the print to go through each bath to set the time and used a thermometer to confirm the temperature settings. Piece of cake. Just keep the machine clean and you'll be good to go. The Printo machine was encrusted and it took some effort to clean it up but it then worked perfectly. It is a pleasure to use these roller transport machines. Freestyle has a good price on generic 20 liter chemicals. I took the advice of someone here on the forum and replenish at a rate of 10cc per 8x10. That has worked perfectly and kept chemistry costs extremely low. The chemicals last a long time if stored on airtight containers with no oxygen, I use seltzer bottles. Good luck!

darkroommike · Nov 30, 2017

Running it with plain water a good idea, and running it with several changes of the water is also good and maybe necessary to flush out old residual chemicals. I would suggest you never turn it on without something in the tanks. And as it runs check for leaks, you may need to replace some hoses or at least tighten a few clamps. (I am speaking generically, never used the Durst, but in my experience with processors, there are always leaks.)

AgX · Nov 30, 2017

Durst explicitely advises to only start the processor if filled at least with water to not damage it by deformation of parts or pump running dry.

btaylor · Nov 30, 2017

+1. Never ever run one of these things dry.

AgX · Dec 1, 2017

Here is a advice for converting the RCP (20) for RA-4 procesessing.
http://www.vogelstimmen-wehr.de/rcp.htm
As a side note: Instead of replenishing the author raises the bath temperature for throughput.

bottlegardener · Dec 1, 2017

Thank you everyone for the excellent tips and information so far.
btaylor, are you just using a bunch of 1litre bottles and squeezing out the air? (Thanks so much for the tip on the generic RA4 chemistry btw!)
Agx, thanks for sending that link. I assembled the .jpg images of the German language RCP 20 manual into a .pdf file with OCR text recognition (for easier searching or copy/pasting sentences to Google translate for folks like me who can't read German) if anybody wants it.
My RCP 40 seems to run pretty well. Setting the dial for approximately 13-inches-per-minute gives me a developer bath time of 45 seconds and a bleach-fix time of about 40 seconds. So I'm guessing I should set the dev temperature to 35ºC and the blix to 40º?
I initially described it as "clean-looking" -- looks can be deceiving. Does anyone have a recommendation of a safe way to clean the rubber rollers? After rinsing and friction cleaning with a microfibre cloth numerous times, the rollers are still leaving tiny marks on the test paper I'm running through it.
Also, there are two non-latching switches labelled 'Control' on either side of the on/off switch (they seemingly correspond to the developer side and blix side). Anyone have an idea what they're for? There is nothing like them in the RCP 20.

EdSawyer · Dec 1, 2017

I have had good luck using Tile-Magic cleaner to clean developer stain/residue from various C41 and RA4 equipment. Others report good luck using diluted toilet-bowl cleaner on rollertransport machines too. (Fujimoto Cp-31s in this case).

darkroommike · Dec 2, 2017

When I ran a one hour lab with Hope roller transport processors the recommendation was to use Lysol Toilet Bowl cleaner on the rubber rollers, followed by many rinses of water. Never get toilet bowl cleaner anywhere near Chlorox bleach since the acid in the toilet bowl cleaner will liberate chlorine gas. And only do it if you can clean the racks outside the machine in a sink or tray.

btaylor · Dec 2, 2017

My encrusted Durst Printo was quite a project to get clean. I took advice I found here and worked with diluted toilet bowl cleaner, a brush and hot water for several evenings. There were a few marks on the initial paper I ran through it, but by the time I had my color correction dialed in the prints were coming through clean.
The Printo takes 2.5 liters of chemistry and the Beseler 4, so I use 2 liter bottles and several 500ml. The small bottles work great for keeping fresh chemistry for the replenishment scheme. And yes, I squeeze all the air out. The chemistry really lasts a long time. Speaking of replenishment, I don't do it until my session is finished and I am storing the chemistry away. I have had no consistency problems at all. I probably run 30 8x10s in a session, so 300ml to replenish at the end of the session.

bottlegardener · Dec 12, 2017

Thanks everyone. The toilet cleaner plus many, many, many rinse cycles seemed to help clean it up.
I ran test prints through it the first time last night. It worked well except for unusual blotchy artifacts on the prints.
The artifacts seemed to consistently appear on the edge of prints that entered the rollers first. The effect was different every time and not on scans of the negatives.
Any clues as to what could cause this? The stop bath doesn't have a heater and the room was quite cold, could that have a reticulation effect?
Excuse the dusty, poor quality scans of these attached test prints. The artifacts I'm talking about are shown in the white rectangles.

Johnkpap · Dec 12, 2017

I have a Durst RCP 40 in storage, I am going to set it up in the new year once I finish installing the plumbing in my darkroom. Would you like me to scan a copy of the manual ?

johnkpap

bottlegardener · Dec 12, 2017

Johnkpap said:
I have a Durst RCP 40 in storage, I am going to set it up in the new year once I finish installing the plumbing in my darkroom. Would you like me to scan a copy of the manual ?

johnkpap

Thanks so much John, that would be excellent! I'd be happy to pay you for your time.

Johnkpap · Dec 13, 2017

No problem I will get it done over the next few days, No I don't want payment, but I might bother you for help when I set mine up in the new year.......By then you will have sorted yours

I will PM you when its done

Regards

Johnkpap

I

mpirie · Dec 13, 2017

bottlegardener said:
I assembled the .jpg images of the German language RCP 20 manual into a .pdf file with OCR text recognition (for easier searching or copy/pasting sentences to Google translate for folks like me who can't read German) if anybody wants it.

Hi, can you send me a copy of the English version of the instructions please?

Thanks,
Mike

bottlegardener · Dec 13, 2017

Johnkpap said:
No problem I will get it done over the next few days, No I don't want payment, but I might bother you for help when I set mine up in the new year.......By then you will have sorted yours

I will PM you when its done

Regards

Johnkpap

I

Thanks John, I'd be happy to send you any pictures, videos, voltage readings or whatever when you need them.

bottlegardener · Dec 13, 2017

mpirie said:
Hi, can you send me a copy of the English version of the instructions please?

Thanks,
Mike

Hi Mike, just to clarify, it's still in German. But at least you can copy and paste the text and put it into Google translate (which kindly replaces 'Durst' with 'thirsty') etc. I don't have an English version. If that's of any use to you, just send me your email.

Johnkpap · Dec 16, 2017

I have good news and bad news

I found my durst processor manual but unfortunately it is the next model up a Durst RCP 50

But the good is it has a stamp on it, I bought mine from OLDTIMECAMERAS.....And yes they have one for your Durst !!!

https://www.camera-manual.com/model.php?modelid=3293

Sorry I could not be of more help

Johnkpap

bottlegardener · Dec 17, 2017

Thanks John, I ordered it!

mpirie · Dec 18, 2017

bottlegardener said:
Hi Mike, just to clarify, it's still in German. But at least you can copy and paste the text and put it into Google translate (which kindly replaces 'Durst' with 'thirsty') etc. I don't have an English version. If that's of any use to you, just send me your email.

Understood.

If i get time i'll compile the English version from the German original.....here's hoping it makes sense after Google Translate has done it's bit!

Mike

RMB10 · Mar 26, 2018

Hello, I just found your posts about the RCP 40 Variospeed and I was wondering if one of you that owns it could give me an advice.
I found someone selling one. He hasn't used it in years since it was kept in a storage. He just had chance to check if it was working ok and said although the ventilation and fan seem to work well, there's a problem with the engine as the rolls are not moving and thinks the engine will need repairing unfortunately.
He would give it away for 100$ but I don't know if that would be a waste of money ( and space!) or getting the engine repair is something possible to do and not too pricey.
I don't even know if the engine can be repeared or it has to be replaced (In that case, where would I get a new engine?)
Any advice welcome!

Thank you very much!

Roberta

AgX · Mar 26, 2018

Welcome to Apug!

I find it hard to imagine such motor to be dead, it must have been burnt through then. However the fan sits on the motor spindle, and as the fan works the motor works too.

Above in a link are two photos of the innards of a modified (belt and gears) RCP-20 sample.

bottlegardener · Mar 26, 2018

Hello Roberta, the manual I ordered from Old Timer Photo isn't isn't very thorough. There are no schematics.
With my own RCP 40, I sometimes need to 'work' the start button and hold it down for a bit in order to get it started. When I have more time, I'll try to figure out how to clean the switches properly. I'm guessing the start switch has contacts for the motors and pumps. Maybe it's something as simple as a dirty switch on that machine?
edit: oops didn't see AgX's reply. I agree that looking at the very similar RCP 20's drive mechanism shown on this site is a great idea.

RMB10 · Mar 26, 2018

Thank you guys for your replies. I might give it a try and take it to a repair shop I know. Hopefully it's nothing major and only the start switch that gives problems.
I'm going to ask the seller to show me photos of the processor and if the rolls are not flakey (I was told that is one of the first thing to check) and might come back here with some more questions if you don't mind.
Anyway, I guess you are both happy with the processor. Would you say it's easy to operate?
I only ever used this German processor called Metoform 5040 in a public darkroom but never had to set it up so It's all new to me...

AgX · Mar 26, 2018

Rollers can be refurbished.

Anyone know how to use the Durst RCP 40 Vario?

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