Anyone has dealt with haze or fungus in a Hasselblad lens. Is this fixable? Photos attached

[Theo Sulphate]

If it's possible to keep your lenses in an environment of low to moderate relative humidity (under 50%), then fungus will not grow. Above 60%, it will grow.

The sunlight-UV process has worked to de-yellow thorium element lenses; I personally don't know about its effectiveness on fungus. However, I don't like the idea of putting a lens in the sun for days or weeks (especially in the summer, since you're in Rio) because I'd be concerned about drying out the aperture and focusing helicoid lubricants.

As others have mentioned, it may not be fungus - just a fogging that can be cleaned.

 

[shutterfinger]

Lubricants gas out,
Fogging the nice clear Zeiss glass,
No shutter in lens.

The paint inside the barrel and other components the lens housing is made from also contribute to the haze.
If no shutter then it did not contribute.

The sunlight-UV process has worked to de-yellow thorium element lenses; I personally don't know about its effectiveness on fungus.

Bright sunlight is an excellent source of UV light which kills fungus. 8 to 16 hours of direct sunlight should be sufficient to kill fungus in a lens.

What can be done to take care of corrosion on the metal parts?

Thanks for your reply!

With the lens elements removed wipe the affected areas down with a damp sponge the all to air dry.
Next buff lightly with a metal polishing scotch brite pad (maroon color) then repaint with flat black paint.
example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Scotch-...b:g:j3gAAOSwidlZaOyE:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

I have an old Kodak Retina with a fogged front lens group, and it appears this front group doesn't come apart. Will exposure to bright sunlight really help to clear the haze on the inner glass surfaces?

What lens is in the camera? UV/sunlight will not remove haze from air contaminates or materials in the lens/shutter gassing out. It might help failing balsam in a cemented pair but repeated soft heat will be faster and likely safer.

Check out the repair videos and repair manuals an tips at https://retinarescue.com/ as it should show how to remove the lens cells. They should just unscrew from the shutter. The trim ring around the front cell should unscrew allowing the front element to come out which will allow access to the inner element for cleaning all 4 surfaces of the two elements. The rear is likely a cemented pair and only two surfaces are accessible by unscrewing it from the shutter. If more than two elements are used in the front or rear then once the outer element is removed the next element is held in place by additional retainer rings removed one at a time.

 

[ic-racer]

Hard to know if there is damage to the lens coating without carefully wiping the lens.
Zeiss lenses differ from year-to-year and between lens mounts. This is a Rollei.
Mark for re-assembly:

 

[ic-racer]

Remove screws:

Remove Back Plate:

Be careful of wires:

 

[ic-racer]

Remove Element:

Clean Glass:

 

[ic-racer]

On the front, the Bayonet ring can be removed:

Don't lose these:

These screws can come out:

This ring comes off:

Don't lose these:

Remove and clean lens element:

 

[moto-uno]

^Nice job of chronicling the process Peter

 

[Sirius Glass]

Before being poetic, you should check if it's the same lens

But it is still good advice to look for lenses at KEH rather than eBay unless saving money and great return policies mean nothing to you.

 

[John Koehrer]

Shipping and import taxes to Rio? Would the taxes be imposed on a returned repair?

Still have to be less than $900. to replace it.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I’ve never gone deep into a lens of any make, but I removed and cleaned an occasional front or rear element. If you already own the lens, that’s what I’d try. You’ll probably need ~$20-30 in tools, unless Hasselblad lenses are harder to disassemble (obviously, stay clear of the shutter.)

send it to Carl Z.they always did an excellent job on mine for about $50 a pop.

 

[lobitar]

Due to the poor quality of the photos originally posted by Dombra (poor light) I think Shutterfinger has mistaken the notches for loosening the back element for the outher notches for loosening the rear lens group (can JUST be seen when loking closely). My experience with dismounting rear group from (older) Hass. lenses is, that the rear group can be really, really tight. I remember I once had to use every bit of my finger strength to loosen it (I have reasonably strong fingers), and probably only managed because I had the original Hass. tools. Still I would try to unmount the read group first thing. But as pointed out above no guarantee for eventual success.