I used PET bottles. BE CAREFUL there's one component of the color developer that will crack PET. I use Polyseal lids. These are generally referred to as cone seal. Basically a phenolic cap, with a polyethylene conical seal. Nothing beats glass, as long as the chemistry is not very strong alkaline.What kind of IR goggles do you use?
I decant the FD in 50ml bottles, but pre-measured with an volumetric flask and therefore with some air above the concentrate which i replace by intert gas. Occasionally, there are bottles going bad where i do not know the reason. They turn yellow while the others are fine. I think de oldest one was almost a year old.
The reason for the yellow concentrate is the oxygen, i know, but i don't know if the displacement of the air didn't work as it should or if the cap was not tight enough and air crept in. I usually retighten the bottles 1-2 times after they are initially filled.
A further incident happened when i opened a Tetenal Magic Box E6 and the FD concentrate had a slight violet tint. I thought that it went bad altough it was still in date and contacted the manufacturer. They checked back with the batch number and performed sensitometric tests that were fine. So i used the chemistry from this batch and it worked flawlessly. We do not know
what was the reason, but i suspect some contaminant which did not affect the chemistry itself because oxidation turns it yellow and not violet. Their Tetenal customer support was top notch.
Your experience with the zero-air bottle made me think about trying plastic bottles of 50ml where i can squeeze the air out completely. I used glass from the beginning for its near zero oxygen permeability.
What kind bottle did you use?
Whoa! There's another self-replenishing B&W developer that's available in reasonable size package! Is it available individually, or only as part of a kit?
(Sorry to potentially hijack the thread, but I'd been looking for self-replenishing alternatives to Xtol et al and Ilford DD, which latter is only available in 25 L packages).
20 liters from Unique photo is the smallest size available
I've got to get some of these wine bags. Your experience with propane mirrors mine. I don't drink ,but I may need to start just for these amazing bags. Do you leave the bag in the box?I also use wine bags for my color films. so I have a total of 12 bags. 6 for working solutions that are 3L and then 6 for replenishment that are also 3L. having the tap on the bags makes it really easy when you need only 75ml for replenishing things like reversal bath or fixer. with the bags, as you know, stay pretty much free of most oxygen. you do get some when you pour the chems back in the bags. with moderate ussage, and manula replenishing if they havent been used for a while, I get 2+ years before I feel that I need to dump and remake a working solution. But that only applies to 1st developer and color developer as they go out first. storing the stock solutions topped off with propane has let me keep them for 2 years as well before they (1st and color dev) need to be dumped. the other 4 baths seem to last quite a bit longer. Im on 4+ years and they are still good.
I would call Unique and see if they will sell you 1 5L bottle, they do this with Flexicolor chemistry. My 1st developer 20L comes 4 x 5LSigh. Add to that the likelihood that E-6 first dev will be much too "hot" to use as stock solution for B&W with reasonable dev times, and we're back to where we were.
It's a concentrate, I think it's around 2 liter to make 5 liter of replenisher.The linked first dev is 4 x 10L -- making me wonder if it's ready-to-use (shipping weight around 90 lb) or concentrate (some fraction of that). Concentrate generally keeps better before opening, but ready-to-pour might be preferred for labs...
SpyNet Jakks Pacific. Toy goggles, I cemented an adapter ring on the camera and use an auxiliary fisheye lens for a 1980's era video camera. I need to find a higher end solution, these are the best things for my 64 yo fingers. One set of the LEDS that illuminate the subject are near IR, thus the tape.What kind of IR goggles do you use?
https://www.amazon.com/Wine-Purse-Easy-Fill-Bags/dp/B07PP9YPK7/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=refillable+wine+bladder&qid=1636248196&qsid=136-5462016-2866741&sr=8-2&sres=B07PP9YPK7,B01NCZ94PT,B08R8SWS5Q,B07ZKCMBCG,B0195E7COI,B07G8MTY6Z,B01AU7PPGQ,B07VNFWD77,B06XXN6B1V,B07X5RZL2T,B07XQGPHLR,B094VT7Z1V,B07HRPRZP7,B07FBGPCB5,B00EMDAI44,B072HRF6QR,B08NVJZVXD,B09H2SSPFD,B0721KZWJ2,B097MV2YMGI've got to get some of these wine bags. Your experience with propane mirrors mine. I don't drink ,but I may need to start just for these amazing bags. Do you leave the bag in the box?
it's 2 liters to make a 10 liter working solution.It's a concentrate, I think it's around 2 liter to make 5 liter of replenisher.
it's 2 liters to make a 10 liter working solution.
I used PET bottles. BE CAREFUL there's one component of the color developer that will crack PET. I use Polyseal lids. These are generally referred to as cone seal. Basically a phenolic cap, with a polyethylene conical seal. Nothing beats glass, as long as the chemistry is not very strong alkaline.
PET soda bottles have excellent low gas permeability. Easy to squeeze out the air.
If you're premeasuring your concentrate or stock solution into single-serving size, as it were, as long as it doesn't depend on being water-free for its longevity it would be completely legitimate to either top up with distilled water (which will simply replace some of the top-up water when you dilute) or drop glass marbles into the bottle to bring up the liquid level (ideally to the point there are no bubbles after closing, but you won't get quite there).
HelloThis is something i wanted to try in the beginning but then i didn't. Thank you for mentioning it, i will try it with 1 or 2 bottles from the next batch. If that works, it is a surefire way to eliminate the oxygen in the bottle, as long as the seal is good.
All the comments here make me feel like it IS rather complex I was hoping that I didn’t have to buy any more “tech” than a thermometer, but it seems like one of those sous vide heaters might be a must?
Some of you mentioned filling the top of the bottles with inert gas. How do you do that?
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Some of you mentioned filling the top of the bottles with inert gas. How do you do that?
All the comments here make me feel like it IS rather complex I was hoping that I didn’t have to buy any more “tech” than a thermometer, but it seems like one of those sous vide heaters might be a must?
Some of you mentioned filling the top of the bottles with inert gas. How do you do that?
I just realized something. This is from an old pack of Provia that I had to transfer in a haste because it got soaked in water (freezer ice melted). I guess this could explain part of it at least. The other half of the pack was still sealed though so I’m guessing that part should still be fine
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