Ansco 130

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Ray Bidegain, Dec 26, 2003.

  1. DREW WILEY

    DREW WILEY Member

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    I buy my glycin powder from PF, usually two bottles at a time, one for use within 6 mo or so, the other goes into the freezer to keep it fresh. I mix 130 per session. The PF formulation of 130 is the classic one. No problem there. But it has a limited shelf life.
     
  2. esearing

    esearing Member

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    PF130 Kit was mixed fresh. Perhaps it is merely the definition of DMAX that we are disagreeing on since that represents a sensiometric measurment . To my eye, Classic has strong tonal separation and very deep blacks even when using a developer like LPD 1:1 Or Ilford Multigrade. The shadows tend to go dark quickly while midtones maintain good separation. Warmtone to my eye (and perhaps way of developing) seems to have more open shadows with more detail visible than with classic. In LPD I get very subtle midtone separation that makes the images seem softer overall but the details in things like pine needles or trees at a distance are well defined. Water is more silver-ish in Classic than in warmtone, though I think that is the way I burn it in with a slower pace in warmtone.
    I think of Classic as having 10 zones of tone vs Warmtone having 15 zones with more shades of mid to dark grey.

    Using PF130 I seem to get more detail out of Classic than I do with other developers. But using LPD with warmtone I get more detail than I do with Classic but have less true black. I like the slower working pace of Warmtone + dilute developer and usually prefer the resulting softer image since I shoot mostly rocks,water, and trees/forest. However once in a rare shot, I capture items with more contrast and the Classic paper look is a better choice. Then I muck it all up using different toners.
     
  3. DREW WILEY

    DREW WILEY Member

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    You should try Cooltone too, though you won't get a true cold tone with 130 on it. I prefer a cold amidol tone for the high altitude work I do, but sometimes have to resort to MGWT and gold toner to get the sheer punch I want. Even the last premium cold graded paper, Ilfobrom, can't quite get there. Classic is a fine paper but a bit finicky. It's nice for when MGWT is simply over the top.
     
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