My spot meter died and I can't afford a new one. So I carry the light meter over to the bright area and then into the shadowed area and make measurements. Works great.
Actually after so many years of shooting in the Southwest and Rockies I can anticipate the values pretty accurately. A bit of bracketing and I'm sure to get a good negative, especially with films like TM400 that have a 14 stop straight line
The brightness range is of secondary importance in B&W photography compared to the exposure. Scene brightnoess range, of course, has never been a criteria for exposure of B&W negative materials.
Of course the shadows are used for exposure, based on the work of Nelson and Jones (which were subsequently incorporated into ASA and then ISO).
Does this app allow one to set the exposure based on the shadow areas? I don't expect you to fix a "K" value but the sophistocated user, that understands what is going on, should be able to set their own "K" value based on their own Zone I testing.
Does this app allow one to set the exposure based on the shadow areas? I don't expect you to fix a "K" value but the sophistocated user, that understands what is going on, should be able to set their own "K" value based on their own Zone I testing.
think you will have to use hdr function to eliminate specular highlights from the reading.
Is that 15.7 the brightest area with detail or pure white? I
'd also recommend working on basing the exposure off a shadow index as ic-racer suggested
yes the app allows you to set exposure based on shadow area - it tells you the maximum and minimum f stop stop in the range so it is just 1/iso + your personal choice of 3, or 4 stops past the widest aperture the app gives you.
An area for improvement and to address the issue of high brightness scenes is to actually make two exposures, e.g. one at +2 and one at -2 stops and then combine the data.
Btw I also second the suggestion of changing the colors into something more intuitive.
By default I'd probably use something like anything below -2 stops will be considered lost and anything above something like 5 stops. But this is a slippery slope and rather personal.
I believe most people mean something like placing it in zone II or III or on IRE index, not "correct" (Zone V) exposure when they say "basing exposure on shadows". In a similar vein:If you expose based on measurement at the "dimmest" block that area becomes "correctly" exposed. However what happens to your highlights is another story..
Isn't ~2 stops higher about right? After all you want the brightest block to be rendered brighter than middle gray?What puzzles me at the moment is that typically the brighest "block" is 1-2 stops higher than what I get when exposure is calculated from the whole picture.
That would be useful IMO for user-selectable "spots". Tap a spot and you get a little box that says + or - so many stops compared to the selected base exposure, which could be based on also a user-selectable spot. But I think I'm now basically projecting my multi-spot Canon T90 workflow onto this...then again, it's my favorite metering system and the main reason why I mostly lug the T90 around when shooting 35mm...Rather I'd like to see "+X" or "-X"
Yes, that's very useful too I think.Tap to ignore a reading, for example if you want to rule out the sky from the calculation because you are ok with it blocking
Could you include a function to change the size of the rectangles in which brightness is averaged? Perhaps a function to exclude selected rectangles from calculations?
also wonder how you average within the rectangles. Simple mean? If so, is there a provision to exclude outliers?
Isn't ~2 stops higher about right? After all you want the brightest block to be rendered brighter than middle gray?
Tap to ignore a reading, for example if you want to rule out the sky from the calculation because you are ok with it blocking
That would be useful IMO for user-selectable "spots". Tap a spot and you get a little box that says + or - so many stops compared to the selected base exposure, which could be based on also a user-selectable spot.
I'm now basically projecting my multi-spot Canon T90 workflow onto this...then again, it's my favorite metering system and the main reason why I mostly lug the T90 around when shooting 35mm...
It is "correct" expsure for the highlights. I believe if that area was clear sky,it would be exposed to zone V.
When looking at the values of the app, remember all values are exposure suggestions for the selected group of pixels. There is also a "expose at" which calculates all the pixels together - averaging the scene.
I didn't quite understand the idea or my app is doing that at the moment. As it shows the "dimmest" group of pixels in terms of correct exposure, isn't this what is wanted or can you elaborate this in perspective what the app currently does? This is actually why I posted here because I'm not that advanced in exposure measurement.
I've attached some very quick phone pics of how highlight and shadow keying works using the IRE scale
A quick and dirty way to get rid of readings for the sun, glare, lightbulbs, and specular highlights would seem to be
If f stop range = 10.9 (assumed max dynamic range of sensor) then sun / glare / specular highlights exist in shot so delete max highlight readings from calculation and recalculate.
Or even quicker just automatically disregard any reading over 10 stops in the calculation of ev
Later you can expand dynamic range of the meter with hdr.
Good idea. You mean the "average" for complete photo would disregard these "blocks"?
Betatesting has gone live now and I found out that there is a public link option too, so here is link if anyone wants to try out: https://testflight.apple.com/join/MfSnZoX7 - you need TestFlight app for this too.
I've uploaded first test version and it is currently being reviewed by Apple. If it goes through, testers should get some email about testing.. More info about testflight here: https://developer.apple.com/testflight/
Just an update of the UI to others as well. Here you can see over/under exposure visualization, I've set the limit to 1 for demonstration in this case.
View attachment 267812
I'm using ios13.7 on my iPhone 8 plus and there is no blue setting wheel on the upper left of my screen. What is the green dot on top?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?