My experience with fairly high volumes of consumer and amateur photographers and labs is the opposite of chuckroast - people who habitually over-expose their negatives tend to achieve worse results than those who use the "box" speed.
Much of that, of course, is colour negative, but it applies as well to black and white.
It may be relevant as well that many of those people take far more photographs of people, whereas Zone System users seem to like landscapes, rocks and trees
I guess I'm an outlier - I don't use much Zone System, but after years with lots and lots of people pictures, I too like landscapes, rocks and trees.
It's much simpler than that. Every single film/developer combination I have tried, when shot at box ISO and developed according to the recommended time/agitation discipline has lacked shadow detail. Switching to the ZS definition for effective ASA delivered results as you note - the personal ASA showed a full stop (ish) slower.
Now you can argue that the original ISO methodology of getting 200 viewers to tell them what looked best is a better test (as controlled with scientific rigor). You can argue that my subjective idea of what constitutes "good shadow detail" doesn't constitute proof. You can argue that my meters or thermometers are all out to lunch and that's why I'm not seeing sufficient shadow density when working at the prescribed ISO and development scheme.
The problem is that my experience is echoed by a great many other experienced photographers who have found the exact same things; The ISO rating gives weak shadow detail and its typically a full stop too fast in practice.
As I noted upthread, I did several years industrial research that involved measuring human response to sensory input. The individual-to-individual variability made finding statistical significance in the results ... challenging. So I am not wildly confident that asking 200 people what makes a "good" picture is any better a measure than my own need for shadow detail.
The ISO standard is useful. It provides a consistent and controlled way to speak to film sensitivity. But practice beats theory, and there is a significant body of practice that finds far better results by using the ZS definition of speed and development discipline.
I am not terribly dogmatic about any of this. If people are getting satisfactory results with ISO marked speed, Godspeed to them. We each work in our own way to our own vision.
N.B. All of this is pretty much beside the point anyway. The biggest sin I see committed in monochrome photography is a lack of local contrast even if the entire SBR is captured. This yields flat, boring images irrespective of the shadow detail ...
So, it's anecdotal. That is legit and I can respect your opinion. I misunderstood because your statement was so definitive.
For the record - these days about 90% of the time, I am getting an EI that is exactly the ISO speed because I am using long, dilute, low agitation development, which lets the shadows fully develop. This suggests that my meters and thermometers aren't too out to lunch...
chuckroast, what might be worthwhile if you were willing to go to the trouble to do it for those of us who remain open-minded about this interesting point <SNIP>
Steven,
Perhaps you would prefer if I said instead: "people who habitually use a lower EI to guide their exposure decisions or add exposure as an extra safety factor tend to achieve worse results than those who rely on the "box" speed."
Trying to use low or moderate scenes to prove "box speed" ability using certain developers is not really a fair fight. Try it with a full range scene. For instance, Foma 200 is indeed capable of reproducing around 11 or even 12 full stops of range under routine development, but not at box speed - more like half of that (100). Now try your semi-stand or whatever trick using the same parameters. Go photograph an extreme range scene, and see if you still get full linear response or not.
Second issue : what is highly dilute D23 with all its sulfite grain-solvent effect doing to the edge acutance? I've never used it for anywhere near that length of time.
The key to evaluating the images posted is not ISO but exposure. The photographer's meter can be set at lower or higher than box speed and the resulting image be underexposed, overexposed, or correctly exposed, depending on the metering skill of the photographer. You really need to conduct a film speed test according to ISO or Zone System standards for each film, developer, and development routine you employ, and work on metering consistency. Then, of course, there is interpretation during printing.
For example, the image of trees in post #112 is lovely, but from a technical point of view, the sky is completely blown out, as are the highlights in several areas of the tree trunks. In addition, the main tree trunks appear to be unnaturally light. The only way to determine whether this image was exposed at the technically correct ISO/exposure would be to see a print exposed for the minimum time for maximum black at the film edge. As I said though, the image is lovely as printed regardless of how it may have been exposed.
The 9x12 scene of logs is sharp as testified by the one strand of grass? you pointed out. Some of the highlights look a little blown on the end of the logs but for all I know the end of the logs themselves may have weathered and dried to a near white with little texture
The 35mm scene of "tickets" is equally sharp but again the front sign with fantasy on it looks a little blown out as if the sign artistry has serious faded and may be that just the problem i.e. it has just faded and is not blown out My first thought here, had it been a print was that a higher print contrast was needed. On the other hand the trees in the background do appear to have detail which a higher contrast might destroy
Maybe the whole of the tickets' painted frontage has seriously faded in real life so what I am looking at is the genuine way it is and diluted D23 in low agitation and long development has captured the scene in a way that conventionally process D23 could not manage?
The only way to be sure would have been to have taken another neg and developed it normally I suppose
Yes there is grain when I use my software on screen magnifier that I think magnifies it at least 4 times so I wonder what restricting the dilution to 1+4 but using low agitation would have done i.e. what might be the gains and losses compared to 1+9 plus lye?
Finally the forest scene in the light conditions looks to be one of those scenes where the challenge to make it look more interesting is a very difficult one under any processing regime but the detail on the trees' bark does look full of detail
Thanks
pentaxuser
Here's another day's attempt from a slightly different angle done in DK-50 1:4 + 0.5g/l lye. I find this one far less satisfying than the one I posted above. It has none of the atmospheric sense...
The image in post #112 was developed in D-23 1:9 + 0.5g/l lye. The image in post #116 was developed in DK-50 1:4 + 0.5g/l lye. The later image is darker with more detail, which could be attributed to film exposure, developer, developer routine, and/or print exposure.
Have you done film speed tests for all the film, developer, and developer routines you employ?
N.B. After this thread of conversation, I'm not sure what a "speed test" even means anymore. We've established that the ZS tests do not match the ISO definitions, so - as a matter of curiosity, without being argumentative in any way - what would you suggest a valid test would even look like?
I am not sure why you are not sure what a film speed test means anymore. Nothing has changed. The ISO test came out in 1993 and, to my knowledge, has not been changed. The Zone System film speed test came out decades before, and likewise hasn't changed. Both have been described earlier in this thread.
Certainly using my screen magnifier so in that sense keeping all thing equal with the tickets scene, the grain in the rocks scene using Pyrocat HD is a quantum's leap improvement in terms of grain. OK the 2 films used are different: tickets being Double X and the rocks being Tri-X but I doubt that is significant.It might be that Pyrocat HD is able to combine box speed with low grain in 35mm in a way that D23 cannot
Semistand type of development seems to be a recognised method in a way that highly dilute D23 and lye is not. In fact until I saw your posts and your interesting article to which you referred me, I don't think that I have seen anyone mention highly dilute D23 with or without lye
Thanks
pentaxuser
Life's too short to waste it on infinite testing. I want to make pictures.
Apart from blowing off an entire field of science offhand, it is considered an opinion because you have no evidence to substantiate it. It is impossible to have confidence the claims are true. Which is fine when working within your own closed system; but how am I supposed to know that your observation of ISO film speed not being applicable to real world situations is correct or that it isn’t just your metering technique?Well, more to the point, it's subjective - much like asking 200 people what print is "better". At some level, all of this depends tying to figure out how people "tend on average" to see things. But that's not really a great measure of human response. On average, we're all going to die, but that doesn't mean I currently have given up on life.
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