A Lazy Man's Zone System

GregY

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
3,208
Location
Alberta
Format
Large Format

Thanks Matt.
 
Last edited:

Alex Benjamin

Subscriber
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
2,414
Location
Montreal
Format
Multi Format

Testing is a subject with which you'll always have the most contradictory views, especially if the zone system is involved, or even just mentioned. You have people here who have done every test possible — zone system, beyond the zone system, to infinity and beyond the zone system, etc. —, and others who have done no tests and just learned through experience.

Both make great pictures. Why? Because in the end, they both learn by looking — learning to look at the scene, learning to look at the negative, learning to look at the print. Now a test, any test, can be part of the learning process at any of these stages. But the test never serves as a short cut to reach your goal — of making nice prints from good negatives — faster. And they are usually most useful when you want to perfect your understanding of something you already have started to master.

When I'm home at night and I'm bored

Buy books by photographers, buy books about photography. You'll never be bored.
 

joho

Member
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
103
Format
Large Format
Just an idea for dcy


film photography is at the level in the begining where one has to ——learn the practical way.

removing the light meter: use note pad to write f/stops/ 1/100 speed times

Step 1: Pick a film 100 ASA[135mm] DO A TEST RUN of six exposures 6x6=36 [*].


Step 2: family photo — do a sitting indoors with room lights use a tripod camera speeds and f/stops on lens
1/2sec-1/4sec-1/15sec-1/30sec-1/60sec-1/125sec
+5stop +4stops +3stop +2stop +1stop 100asa—normal


Step 2A: repeat with different combos [*]. use all 36 exposures. KEEPING NOTES AT ALL TIMES !!

Step 3: make 6contact sheets each different EXPOSURES

use d-23 film and what paper you use.



A Spartan view to using standers but this is the best way to get a basic idea.
 

GregY

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
3,208
Location
Alberta
Format
Large Format

Well said Alex. & DCY....... make that drive to Santa Fe to see fine "real" photographic prints.
 
Last edited:

MattKing

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
52,672
Location
Delta, BC Canada
Format
Medium Format
Well said Alex. & DCY....... make that drive to Santa Fe to see real fine photographic prints.

And take a camera, and photograph whatever interests you.
You mentioned some well controlled ADHD. If you can channel that, don't channel it toward developer choice or technique or equipment.
Channel it toward experiencing - visually and photographically - the plethora of interesting things in the world around you!
 

Paul Howell

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
9,645
Location
Scottsdale Az
Format
Multi Format
You might want to find a copy of The Zone System for 35mm Photographers by Carson Graves, there are a couple of editions out I have the second edition. He came up with system while teaching photography at a community college. Although I was taught to shoot a ring around in college in the 60s and by one of bosses (NOIC) while in the Air Force to find what would call a working ISO, Carson Craves method is more precise.
 

Lachlan Young

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2005
Messages
4,909
Location
Glasgow
Format
Multi Format

We probably shouldn't give away the secret that Sunny-16/ EV tables using pre-1960 film speed ratings is probably going to give better negative exposures than the intense effortfulness being expended on finding new ways to read meters and densitometers wrongly...
 

What About Bob

Subscriber
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
600
Location
Northampton, MA.
Format
Analog

Well said, Matt.

Be observant and in the moment.
 

Bill Burk

Subscriber
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Messages
9,228
Format
4x5 Format

You’re doing alright.

I think it’s cool that you picked an unusual developer, D-23 and are mixing it yourself. I can cheer you on but can’t give you comparable development times because I use D-76 from Kodak packages.

Zone System tests (and any EZ claim) are a sure way to expose a lot of film to find a personal film speed that is half the rated speed. An excellent exercise no matter how you approach it, but surely you found your speed by now.

I could devise a new test every five minutes but you’d probably do your own test anyway.

If you accept that 0.5 is a decent contrast to aim for, then for two stops exposure change you would expect one stop density change in the negative. Taking this into account you could take three shots of the same scene, doesn’t matter what it is, two shots normal and then change the film speed two stops lower for a third shot, then set the camera back to normal.

In this test you don’t even waste a single shot because you could print them all. You don’t even risk ruining anything by accidentally leaving the camera set wrong, because overexposure is graceful with black and white negative film.

But here’s the trick.

When you get the film developed, cut between the two thinner negatives.

Put them on top of each other over a light box and compare to the denser negative of the set.

If they look the same you have developed to 0.5 contrast. If the pair of thinner negatives sandwiched look darker than the thick negative you need to develop more. If the pair together look thinner than the dense one you have developed more than 0.5, and you might consider cutting back time for the next run.
 

Craig

Subscriber
Joined
Apr 8, 2004
Messages
2,314
Location
Calgary
Format
Multi Format
DCY, I think you might have gotten a bit ahead of yourself here. The ability to evaluate different developers is based on the assumption that the negatives are correctly exposed. Based on what you have said, you have not yet achieved a complete understanding of the camera and it's light meter.

I'd take a step back and learn about light, and how to meter it. I'm not meaning the Zone system and all it's variants, I'm thinking of basic use of a light meter and it's limitations, such as you discovered with white sand. Once you have a complete grasp of how your camera meters, then you can understand what to do with the reading it suggests and when to use it or not. You'll learn to recognize the situations that might call for a different metering technique.

Then you can move to learning about exposing film (the Zone System is one method, there are many others), and then once you have mastered metering and exposing, then move onto developing.
There is no point in trying to perfectly develop a poorly exposed film.

I know it's been said before, but I would use one mainstream film and one developer for the metering and exposing phase of learning the craft of photography. The reason is simply to control the number of variables. I would probably also stick to a commercial developer, whatever you choose, and strictly adhere to the manufacturers recommendations.

Also best to use the same companies film and developer. They know the products, and they want you to succeed; they are not going to make recommendations that don't work.

Once you have mastered all 3 aspects (metering, exposing and developing), then experiment and make changes to your hearts content; but you need to have the foundation under your belt before you can make any meaningful evaluations of the results of your experimentation.

I am assuming in the above that the end goal is nice looking prints, rather than the experimentation being the end goal.
 

Bill Burk

Subscriber
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Messages
9,228
Format
4x5 Format
p.s. On the Pentax 17 whenever you feel like doing that test of three of the same shot to check development, take one shot on +2 compensation and then set it back to zero and finish off with two more of the same picture.

You’re going to be less likely to accidentally leave the camera on the wrong setting this way.

It’s going to be obvious when you look at the negatives that there’s a dark one.
 

tykos

Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2020
Messages
101
Location
italy
Format
4x5 Format
Then there's the "minimum time to maximum black" printing time. Assuming you judge it properly, what is that telling you? And of what value is it?

that should be the right time to print a frame: at that time you have max black in the blackest part of the image and the other tones of the image should be separated. If you expose more than that time, you'll crunch to black some of the non-black tones. Following this reasoning, this time is also needed to evaluate the whitest part of the image and therefore establish the right development time.

(not that is prohibited to crunch to black the amount of tones you like but that's the artistic choice while testing is all about the sensitometry. Once you know how your exposure+film+dev+paper+paperdev work (sensitometry), you can obtain the results suitable to you artistic view)
 

npl

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2021
Messages
195
Location
France
Format
35mm
I've seen it mentionned in p.1, "The Zone System for 35mm Photographers" is the book I would strongly recommend for roll film shooters wanting to start with the ZS.

It's a short and practical book that propose a method that doesn't rely on a densitometer and IIRC also gives advices on metering without a spot meter available. Seems right in the alley of OP's question.
 

BCM

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 1, 2021
Messages
111
Location
San Antonio
Format
8x10 Format
*Someone* could have read about and learned the Zone System in the time it took to read all these posts.
 
OP
OP

dcy

Member
Joined
May 9, 2025
Messages
302
Location
New Mexico, USA
Format
35mm

Yeah. I kind of underestimated how much natural variance of opinion there'd be in a forum with a lot of experienced people. But I am feeling upbeat and I'm gradually re-calibrating how I read the advice I get --- a little less "gospel", a little more "Ford vs Chevy".
 
OP
OP

dcy

Member
Joined
May 9, 2025
Messages
302
Location
New Mexico, USA
Format
35mm

Yeah. I'm looking forward to getting to know the idiosyncrasies of my camera and how to use the controls to guide its decisions.
 

0x001688936CA08

Subscriber
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
72
Location
PNW
Format
4x5 Format
For every person who has exhaustively tested their process and come to some acceptable point of understanding or quality, there are a hundred people who have spent their time making interesting pictures instead.

Seems like you might be trying to figure out which typewriter, ink and paper combo is best for you, before you've figured out what to write.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP

dcy

Member
Joined
May 9, 2025
Messages
302
Location
New Mexico, USA
Format
35mm

Wise words. Indeed, one of the reasons I got into photography is that it gets me out of the house and exploring the world on foot. --- There are only so many times you can photograph a bowl of fruit at home, and you can't do photography from a moving car. I find it helps my mental and physical health. Luckily, I now live in a part of the world with lots of sun, mountains, and things to see. I moved here less than a year ago. Before that, I lived in one of the more boring parts of the American Midwest. That... was not great.
 
OP
OP

dcy

Member
Joined
May 9, 2025
Messages
302
Location
New Mexico, USA
Format
35mm
Seems like you might be trying to figure out which typewriter, ink and paper combo is best for you, before you've figured out what to write.

Well... In fairness, my posts are a limited window into my life. It's not like anyone is going to come into a forum and ask "what should I photograph?".
 

0x001688936CA08

Subscriber
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
72
Location
PNW
Format
4x5 Format
Well... In fairness, my posts are a limited window into my life. It's not like anyone is going to come into a forum and ask "what should I photograph?".

Yes, fair enough.

I suppose what I was trying to say is that technical discussion is largely irrelevant and unresolvable unless there is some desired outcome or creative objective.

Why do you want to find a "personal ISO" anyway? You can go outside and shoot vaguely close enough to sunny 16 with any negative film and make a usable negative. I'm pretty sure the experiment you outline at the top is this thread is just the long way to sunny 16.

Garry Winogrand said something along the lines of "you have to grossly under or over expose film to not have a usable negative". Negative film is remarkably forgiving.
 

Alex Benjamin

Subscriber
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
2,414
Location
Montreal
Format
Multi Format

0x001688936CA08

Subscriber
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
72
Location
PNW
Format
4x5 Format
I have an idea that brother Ansel ever really used his zone system all that often.

He essentially admitted as much didn't he? I can't recall where I read or heard this, but Adam's talked about his transition to teaching, saying something like "what I was doing intuitively for many years needed to be formalised". Which seems to suggest that the zone system is entirely a post-hoc description of a way of working that he never actually practiced as rigorously as it he subsequently defined it.
 
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…