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Well, the rb 6x8 (motorized) back does gives you more than the 6x7; however it definitely doesn't give you 80mm along the long end. The back is masked to about 75mm and you wind up with 76 or so on the film. You can't get more along the horizontal direction without getting into modifying the...

You could just look around in the galleries. Do take care to look at actual prints rather than neg scans though; scanners make subtle changes to the tonality and sharpness of a neg that can be deceiving on your screen. Tmax and fp4+ are about as different as different can be. Well... not...

Peter, while it is true that the rbs can deliver 8x8, and most of the lenses easily cover that, the body will not deliver 8x8 without modification. I have modified my rb67 pro sd to provide almost 8x8 cm images on 4x5 film (type 55 and quickloads). This involves removing part of the mirror...

Good! You want new and cool? Take one of your fp100c prints and put it in boiling water. After a few mins, transfer the emulsion to other paper. Enjoy ;)

That's normal. You can get out a dremel tool and expand it a bit, but not very much.

Reala.

I'll just add this postscript: Shen Hao just agreed to make up a 5x8 reducing back for my 4x10... just what I was looking for! The cost is only US$180.

Richard, thanks for making the arrangements. I'll just point out to anyone who doesn't know already: arranging anything at Swannanoa is not easy! I'll just post a pair of quick exploratory images from Swannanoa- my first two shots with a shen 4x10 and a lens that didn't have enough circle to...

Okay, first of all, thank you Tom for teaching me how to make bulleted lists ;) My father had a yashica TLR that fascinated me a kid. I think I was about 8-10 when I took it apart and learned the basics of how cameras work. N.b where we lived, there was no supply of MF film so I never...

That looks really good Joe, maybe I'll give the Efke another go.

Oh you were at Delft too? I was there for 3 years as a postdoc. Applied physics... Cees Dekker's group.

Andrew, I tried the Efke and that stuff is just too freaking contrasty! Haven't gotten anything useful. I haven't tamed it as yet and lost interest in it. BetterSense, I do preflashing to about 2-3 stops below the point at which normal development gives a light grey tone. I marked off a...

Sandy so you are looking to pimp out your 7? :D I am thinking glue and glitter.... okay, elephant skin, I have some and it is amazing.

Type 55! Panatomic x. By far my favourite(s). :rolleyes: Yeah okay, okay, I like fp4+. ID-11 1+1. If you want acutance then just use an acutance developer with acros.

Pinhole cameras go waaay back, at least to 400 BC. That is probably the first kind of camera. You don't need any glass at all to make a camera ;) Not too long ago I gave an historical summary of photography and I wanted to state when it all began. I was surprised to discover how ambiguous...

Didn't we just have a thread on this very topic? Please try the forum search function! (there was a url link here which no longer exists) As Walt said, "of course." Just don't expect tips on reading histograms etc. on APUG ;)

So it's got no shutter?

Oh it could be a camera for an endoscope then. Does it not have a press shutter? Maybe it has no shutter at all? (in which case you could get a press shutter...)

Well none of the aforementioned folks is even close to being the first... people were exposing leaves in pinhole cameras much earlier. I don't think there is a well established date for the first pinholes and obviously the leaf images weren't permanent so we don't know how early that was...

David, actually my problem with some older lenses is precisely that: they have a signature look. Personally, I am not sure that I can figure out how to make something fresh emerge through that. Others may find a way to do it, but, so far, not I.

Stick with the Nikons.

I tried it and it went too fast for my enlarger (I think you will want a very small aperture), but anyway you get funny ripples and such. Alas all I saw was that something interesting was happening and then it just blacked up on me! I haven't explored further yet. I concluded that the optimal...

Yup it's for a sillyscope. Would make a nice duping camera... maybe you could put slides on a light table and dupe to fuji instant film?

The look of a print film, in terms of colour rendition, is going to depend somewhat on how you rate it. Pro S suits me fine at 160 when people are in the frame, whereas for landscape I tend to rate it at 125. My recommendation is to feed a roll to your 35mm camera, bracket it and print it...

White furnished us some marvelous thoughts and quotes, didn't he? One of my favourite Minor quotes, from a caption describing the technique he used for a particular photograph: "For technical data- the camera was faithfully used." At a time when I was immersed in Adams' pedagogy, that simple...

3000b is faaast! and fun. You can shoot handheld LF with that stuff! Actually my recommendation would be fp100b. Love it. Also try the colour version, fp100c. Sweet stuff. And of course, if you're just proofing, you can shoot the smaller (and less expensive) version rather than 4x5, if you...

Bob, for LF my strategy is this. Starting with a wide aperture I focus and then attempt to gain sufficient coverage and sufficient effective depth of field via tilts and shifts. Failing that I stop down. Then... rinse, repeat... no formulas, no math ;) In LF you are almost always working on...

I have to say, I certainly wouldn't characterize someone is such terms even if our opinions differed! Look, we all know folks who gush effusively over poor and inexpressive prints just because they were done with some exotic process. There are plenty of examples of people, er, pleasing...

Bellows factor: If "m" is the magnification of your subject then you multiply your exposure time by (1+m)^2. For example, if you want to photograph something at 1:1 (same size on film as in reality), then m=1 and your factor is (1+1)^2= 2^2 = 4. So if you hand metered a 1:1 macro subject...

I believe that photographers generally develop more sensitivity to time and to light and its many nuances. Overall, I feel much closer to subjects after I photograph them. What most motivates my photography is learning how to see... beyond the superificial level of whether a subject will...