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These Chinese magnolias kill me, the smell is strong! Instant headache. But they are patient models.

This one is 10 feet from my front door. I always find it interesting the way the blossoms appear emerge from the bark, even before the leaves appear.

There is bellows patching compound that you can buy, and you'll find numerous other solutions if you search this site. If you really like the camera then you might also consider simply purchasing new bellows.

You've captured a good feeling there Daniel, and its nice and sharp where it needs to be. Really nice tonality for a paper neg! (Really nice tonality for a normal neg too...)

Are you sure it's a dev issue and not some light-seal issue with the camera itself? Or the canister?

Sounds like a good approach. But overall, I think a flash meter is indispensable. My inexpensive little gossen digipro gives good flash readings. The thing is, you'll seldom want the flash sitting on or tight near the camera.... you'll want to diffuse it and have it at some angle off the...

WildBill is Vinny. Vinny, please introduce yourself! Trond, now I know where the name Trondheim comes from! You are famous! Thanks for joining the group, I look forward to seeing everyone's experiments.

Well, a warm water stop bath could tame the highlights a tad. Maybe a really dilute second dev bath would be beneficial as well. Anyway neopan can handle quite lot of subject brightness range- one of the reasons why it came to mind for night stuff. It's also fast enough that reciprocity...

Say, wouldn't it be cool if the tattoos matched the camera body? You could even incorporate a bellows factor chart on there, how handy.

Depends on the amount of enlargement.

See now that red reptilian cover makes all the difference. I *must* get my rb pimped out! Anyway those forearms kind of make my earlier point, don't they? ;)

What is the film, what is the developer? Time? Temp? What was your agitation?

Might pre-flashing the paper help? If clumped up highlights and contrast is the issue. Printing via the split grade method definitely sounds like the best overall approach. What I (and many others, I am sure) do is make a split grade matrix of exposures... exposures with the low contrast...

In '92 I had my first beer. But that is another story. This, gentlemen, is what I call a pistol grip.

lol Tim, did I mention that I am an experimental applied physicist? Who teaches honors engineering students? Not the old chalkboard bloke who gave you the disappointing grade all those years ago ;) Kidding/ribbing aside, people should do what they feel makes them productive. That's all...

John, with the L bracket you do support the camera from underneath, as was pointed out in post # 21, if not sooner. If you use the L bracket as it is meant to be used, and as described in post #21, then there will be virtually no torque on the wrist. It's just like the vertical grip...

Show us your burly forearms Tim, you must be so proud ;) Did I actually say that this rig does not exist? Or if it did exist and you used it that'd you'd be doing something wrong?! ;) I think what I said is that if it exists then the original poster wouldn't want one. I forgot that I am...

I also like this one best. For me, the collodion images that seem to work best are those in which most of the image is in the darkest tones and there is less midtone and high tone. I seem to like the collodion images that have detail just emerging from the deeper tones. I guess that is...

Check out the Zeiss ZF lenses for Nikon F mount if you want more contrast. As others have mentioned, there is a vast repertoire of ordinary Nikon F lenses that work very well for b&w.

I agree with the above, that chart is very helpful for understanding. I'll just throw in one other observation: rating a colour c41 film a lot slower than box speed (while developing for box speed) tends to move the colours more into coarser primaries... a bit like what you get with certain...

The thumbnail for this works extraordinarily well in my opinion; perhaps because of the overall rhythm of the composition. I think if you print it relatively small (contact?) with ample surround then it will really shine. Another thought that comes to mind is that this would work very well...

Re: glass screens, Diwan Bhathal taught me that a homemade plexiglas screen works almost as well. It's not so bright, sure, but it truly cannot be broken. I did my 5x7 Yosemite trip with one that we scratched up with pipe compound at Diwan's place. Still, I think you'd be better off scale...

That effect is because your film plane is not curved, right?

I'd not go for anything with bellows and ground glass for mtn. biking. (Then again, maybe it depends what you mean by mountain biking....) I'd suggest the Dead Link Removed, or if you have lots of money to blow, maybe the alpa. (Isn't that alpa site amusing?! Wish I were actually shopping...

Well I'll sell you mine for, I dunno, $275 +shipping? Poor thing just hasn't seen any action in ages.

You definitely would not want to support an rb from underneath via a single-handed pistol grip. Hear me now, believe me later. Even if such a device did exist, it'd not be something you want! Unless you really want to bulk up your lower forearms and wrist muscles! I do have the side grip for...

Wow, what a read! ;) Interesting. First of all, Gustavo, I feel no need for the portion of the frame beneath the tabletop. That we can see straight away that she's on a table really opens the door to some of the criticisms [coarsely] expressed here... she simply comes across as one object...

Elephant's foot! Great.

Sure. But again, I'd be tempted to rate it considerably slower for a bit more well defined colours. By the time you factor in that and reciprocity, I don't know, you might be bumping the exposure by a stop to get what you want. Hard to say. It'd really not occur to me to use an 800 print...

I'd say tmax 400 and delta 400 have a totally different tonality when compared to fp4+. Not nearly as much edge bite, overall softer feeling. To my eye, hp5+ is indeed tonally much closer to the feel of fp4+ (albeit much grainier), and then comes neopan 400... but the tmax and delta are way...