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Stock XTOL, 1:1 XTOL and replenished XTOL are all sharp. I have not compared them.

I had one, it was easier to use my imagination.

You really need to get ALL your light meters, in and out of cameras, calibrated. Preferably by the same person. Also you meter on what you want to be Middle Gray, unless you are using the Zone System.

Santa is a female saint, so does that mean that Santa Claus is a cross dresser? :unsure:

Actually he was quite friendly and he reached out to help many. There was a problem because some thought he was self promoting [subtitlely advertising] on the forum and that hurt him personally, so rather than fight he left. He always gave me good advice and support.

George Eastman founded Eastman Kodak in Rochester New York because the area is the largest natural darkroom in the world.

Companies want to score points with the real world. You should get out of your cave every decade or two.

I save up my film to do all the C41 processing in a day or two. The longer the chemicals sit around, the more trouble you are asking for.

While I agree that UV and Skylight filters provide protection and that is part of why I have them on all lenses, those filters cut the UV light and haze from the sky and help make the sky look much better.

I spent several decades shooting slides and if I had to I would remount a slide to do some cropping. I learned that it is much better to get the composition correct before taking the photograph and then not have to crop later.

Also line up the chemicals in order before starting.

So what that the photograph faded, look at all the money he saved on stop bath.

I like negatives as large as possible so I would never use a 645 format. To me it is too long just like 35mm.

I have it but I have never used it to take a photograph, however it is fun to walk around inside a building and going through doorways looking through it.

Some on on Photrio suggests turning the camera upside down if the bottom of the frame is critical. I have just moved it up-down-right-left a little in the past, but I will turn it over the next time I need to. There us a similar problem with the M series Leicas with the lens hood getting the...

One estimates the distance, but the depth of field is so great that if one sets the infinity symbol on the the f/number virtually everything is in focus. One can also attach a prism to the back and see directly through the lens. I have the equipment to do that, but I have never needed to do that.

That explains it.

Use the developer that yields the results that you like.

To do either well takes work. If a composition is weak, then color may make it good enough to be acceptable. Black & white photography must be carried by the composition alone. It depends on ones taste. I do both and have great photographs with both. I will often shoot one at a location and...

I am stunned that KEH for most of the pandemic cannot keep inventory, especially Hasselblad, but others too.

Stock XTOL give great results and is very forgiving. If one does not want added work and wants to avoid any contamination problems, especially if there are others in the darkroom using the same chemicals, then stock XTOL is the way to go. I like the improved tonality of replenished XTOL.

Cropping is not cheating. Sometimes it is needed. It is better to compose using the whole frame if possible than have to crop later.

Your prints of the first frames will be ok, but there is no reason to deviate from box speed on color film. Can you change from box speed? Yes but the more you move off box speed, the more you will loose elsewhere.

It is not about the curves. If you cannot see it, then no one can help you.

The SWC is rectilinear and that is very different than the run of the mill shorter than 20mm lenses [for 35mm cameras] of which most valuable feature is to distort everything for the Holy Grail of distortion. The SWC is a real camera, not a Lens Baby. If you want a real camera buy and use the...

Chris is looking for a new identity and that could help him do it.

When you are using the Zone System to get details in the shadows, you might has well just use box speed because you will still get the shadow and the highlight details. Why throw out the top end just to have the ISO 200 bragging rights?

OR shot a Hasselblad or other 6x6 and the need for a rotating back vaporizes.

My SWC slides into my camera backpack next to the 50mm lens with the 80mm on the camera. Sometimes the 250mm or 100mm or both will come along for the ride. Because of the weight the 500mm does not get out as much unless there is a good opportunity to photograph wildlife.