When I had my GW670III, I did time exposures all the time. Great camera IMO.
I just put a black hat, or my hand over the lens(without touching it), then moved the shutter speed or aperture ring to close it down. I just learned to live with it.
great cameras, super sharp.
-Dan
Colin,
give tray processing a go. The bigger then film, the easier it is ;). Yes, there is more chances to scratch your film, but with time, it can be a mastered craft!
I used a 9x11 pyrez dish I got for $1 at the thrift store before finding an 11x15 tray, even easier :D.
-Dan
Hey all,
I'm running an identical thread over at LFF, but here it is for you as well :).
I got these items a few weeks ago while cleaning out a friend's apartment in preparation for his move up north. I originally planned to restore a speed or crown to use for handheld 4x5, but alas, my plans...
oops, my bad.
I thought that the Linhof 6x9/7/6 backs that were designed for the 2 1/4 cameras(from the get-go) would work fine with the Galvin. I haven't seen a galvin in a while now, so my memory is somewhat fuzzy.
thanks for the clarification
-Dan
but what I was referring to was this: if you shoot a photograph of some sunny vista, say, you have a -1/2 situation for development. But since you only have 1 back loaded with b/w, going and shooting a portrait of someone in open shade(generally a N+ situation), printing will be made more...
Jerry,
to be quite frank, the only way that the zone system can really be used with roll film(that I've found to be consistent) is to expose the WHOLE roll the EXACT same(contrast-wise). Because the zone system utilizes contraction and expansion of contrast to achieve the desired effect, to...
the linhof rollfilm backs are damn sweet, from my limited experience with them.
Horseman backs are nicely made as well. RB backs are nice, just be aware that the light-trap seals are generally quite worn, depending on the age/usage of the back itself. These are usually in need of replacement...
we can hope, but IDK man....
most of the small mom and pop places, even some pro labs here in LA don't give a shite about their customers, just take the money and hope things turn out ok, rather than making sure they do.
-Dan
just don't buy this paper, whatever you do ;), its Agfa, but look closely at the pictures, notice anything wrong?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260403300337&_trksid=p2759.l1259
-Dan
hey all,
got this today, but I wasn't expecting to have to put THIS much work into getting it working fine and dandy. So it needs a new home. I'm just looking to break even for what I paid for it after shipping.
As you can tell by the pictures, the camera is somewhat of a "beater", but it...
to be somewhat blunt(sorry, I'm tired, long day moving)
just process the film, and get on with your day/week/month, whatever....
then buy some more film to shoot
-Dan
aste:
have your rb's mirror checked to see if its at the right focal point to the film plane.
this is generally the cause of unsharp negatives/positives
-Dan
I just found a lab in NY that has a "proprietary process" for mottle free development, I guess they wouldn't be willing to share their secrets
Page 2, under "sp- c-41" prices are about 2x the normal rate though....
http://ltiny.com/lti_pricelist.pdf
they even show film sizes up to 16x20...
hey all,
I have a simple, yet obtrusive problem that many of you have probably wondered about. Well, my fruitless searches here and on LFF to find an answer have gone un "fruited" ;), so, hence my question:
I know its "possible" to run c-41 at a lower temperature that 100deg F, but its not...
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