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I do large-format photos of animals, mostly insects. Might not be exactly what you're looking for, but who knows! www.angelsandinsects.com They keep still well enough but their union is a killer.

Thanks, I certainly know the feeling. As soon as I start to feel like that's the answer I lean towards the most I see a beautiful two-page panoramic spread where the middle is so big and clear that it threatens to make me a convert. I'm normally quite clear with myself on what exactly I do and...

I am somewhat torn on the question of whether or not I prefer photos that are in the horizontal orientation to span two facing pages or not. I'm wondering if people have definite opinions on the matter or not. I am using a vertically oriented book as the starting point. On the plus side for...

My current camera setup weighs 47lbs and is over seven feet long, I've learned the art of scooting the subjects around with their arrangements intact! Every once in while when I need to move the camera for some reason I just kick one of the legs of the rear tripod.

Move the subject, not the camera. Works like a charm if you have the option!

I use a combination of things, with varying results. The old standby for me is a nylon stretched over a coat hanger loop. Thin paper over the enlarging paper produces an interesting effect. Then there's smoke when it's warm and breath when it's cold. It all depends on the look and effect you...

Dead Link Removed will sell you a complete setup if you need. Good prices, good people.

Yep! In my case it was Totas trailing behind a Glidecam, but the effect was the same: Hysterical.

There's nothing quite like seeing someone walking around shooting handheld with a hot light strapped to their camera and a power cord trailing off into the distance.

Depending on what grid patterns you mean, they are typically used to create a more directional light. The tighter the honeycomb (more gridlines) the tighter the beam / the less spill you get. There are also some screens designed to limit the light a bit, I've got one with three sets of...

I spent four days travelling back between the US and Canada doing a photo shoot. It was a very small crossing, the same crossing guards every day. The people we were with grew up near the crossing town (two buildings and a store), and grew up knowing the crossing guards. There was very little...

I don't do people portraiture much, so I can't really answer you directly. I'd say give it a shot but don't invest too much unless you can get your money back if it doesn't work. The great thing about non-pro equipment is that it's cheaper and you often get unexpected results. The great thing...

But of course. At the same time some people need the added reliability and dependability of dedicated equipment and don't mind paying for it. Me, I make my own unless it's cheaper to buy it. It really depends on what you need. You tell us! You're looking for lumens, the more the better...

Chickens? Yeah, they're something I've been working on for a while now... But seriously, here's a link to one. It's the first link returned by the search, I know nothing of the manufacturers product specifically: Automtic Egg Turner For what it's worth, do NOT use these for your...

The big problem with shop lights is that they are not color balanced. It may not make any difference for what you want to use them for, which is pretty much relegating to blasting light all over the place, but if you are doing color work you'll have a tough time matching anything. I used them...

They're daylight balanced so they look like any other light source. Very soft light, of course. I wouldn't use regular household flourecent lights, that's an inefficient way to do it, although I have in fact lit scenes with them. The comparison is like apples to oranges, both are fruit, but...

Hi Nick, this is not entirely accurate. People tend to mistakenly refer to all continuous lighting as "hot lights" even though that is not always the case. If you are talking about incandecent or HMI lights then yes, they tend to be "hot" and expensive to run. However those are not your only two...

Hi Nick, I use bounce and shoot-through umbrellas all the time, often in combination. The results are different, depends on what you're after of course. As mentioned, the bigger the source the softer the light. The shoot-throughs are softer than the bounce lights, but provide less light overall...

One thing I've thought about is modifying automated egg-turners. These are devices that sit inside an incubator and rock the eggs back and forth. Most have some adjustment of timing possible, and most will rock to one side a bit, wait a little, rock to the other side, wait a little, and repeat...

Hi Murray, thanks for the kind words. I've been wanting to submit a package to them for a while now, maybe I should get my act together and do so.

Portraits of unusual subjects: http://www.angelsandinsects.com

I've packed an F2 round a bit. It's not light. But it is possible and as mentioned, it has its uses that may outweigh (!) the extra weight. You can find them relatively cheap on the auction sites ($650 or so w/o lens).

I gave it a try as a response to someone who said it couldn't be done (which baffled me). It was an interesting experiment for me, but not something I wanted to pursue. Mostly cutting the paper to fit was a real pain and I often found that the paper was enough thicker than the standard negatives...

I just tried doing some tests in my dark studio. I set up a 1K hotlight with a diffuser on it as the only light source and pointed the lens at it. The G.G. reader and the calculations with the old manual one matched, more or less. I'm guessing that there's just a problem with using it in strong...

Thanks for the quick reply. I've only got the incident dome attachment available. Are you saying I should try to get the non-G.G. reading to match with the G.G. reading at 1:1? Or do you mean something else about focusing to infinity? I almost never shoot 1:1 so I'm not sure how that would...

I just picked up a Sekonic L-718 with metering attachment to measure the ground glass for macro work. Normally what I do is use my old Sekonic L-398, take an incident reading, find the equivalent reading for the bellows length, and set the lens length to that reading. This works almost...

I just file the pegs to fit. Lately I've also been sandwiching the negs between pieces of glass in a cheap version of a glass carrier. Works well and didn't cost anything extra.

That certainly makes sense. I stick all of my negatives in water right away, then clear at a later time. Even though I shot over twenty pieces that day in the same fashion, this is the first time I've seen this.

That certainly could be. I cleared it at the same time as all the others in the same solution (all at once), but who knows, maybe it didn't get the right treatment.

I've heard, but not tried, that you can solarize it by pulling it apart before full development and then re-contact the pieces, but I shot this the same way I did the twenty or so others I shot that day. I pulled them all on the spot and they were all exposed essentially the same. I've extremely...