The Nikon line has wonderful options for available light.
Consider the fabulous Nikon 105/1.8 for tight, flattering, short-tele shots, with a comfortable, nonintrusive standoff from the subject(s). If you want wider/environmental, consider the 50/1.2. I like the dreamy out of focus elements...
Glad you're trying it, Kal!
I was using fiber matte paper. Ilford mgiv and some others.
One little trick, if the ink has too much flow then you could put tissue paper over the spot and daub that, so that less ink goes down.
Mine did wash out as far as I coudl judge, but... I can imagine that...
I wonder why more maskless films haven't appeared. I certainly would have use for them (and not only because of that technology that starts with an 's' but for wholly analogue purposes as well). There could be mask-emulating filters for those who want to do ra4 from them (and of course it'd...
You may as well stay with the choice you had for the rest of your roll. Just tell the developer to pull one stop (pulling two is probably unnecessary, I think). It'll be overexposed but probably fine. Print films can handle one or two stops of overexposure.
P.S. I assume that you are talking...
Hmm, wonder if I might be more pleased with digibase if I used this specialized chemistry. I was frankly rather underwhelmed by digibase film, processed normally via standard c41 at a lab...
I'd say get a poco or such and rebuild/restore it. Having all the bits and pieces there will really help you, especially if this is the first time you've made such a thing.
Yes the slides will be recoverable. This contains various links that may help:
http://www.retouchpro.com/forums/history-conservation-repair/2985-removing-mildew-35mm-slides.html
You can easily focus in almost zero light by scale focusing, but unfortunately the [original] xa has no distance markings. I have an xa2 with which you could zone focus, but... scale focusing would be the way to go and has been used for a long time in available light shooting.
You can pick up...
Thanks! Wolfeye, it definitely is IR film, I would compare it to efke 820. Note that the filter I was using with the superpan was quite deep, well beyond the 72 filter that many folks use. Anyway, with a red filter you can get strong tones too, see here.
Thanks Kevin. Superpan is a Rollei film. I used to use Rollei IR exclusively; lately I prefer superpan for medium format and efke IR for larger formats. I rate it at 200, give a ~10 stop filter factor with a #87 or ~3 stops with deep red, and dev for 10 mins in wd2d+.
Strongly agreed!
I am ~40 cameras from where I started in medium format (with a Fuji GA645Zi that I still sorely miss every now and then). And I still find regular use for 8 or so different MF bodies. So I predict that you will eventually want more than one. Thus it's really not sensible...
Housing what was once the largest telescope in the world, this observatory sits on the hill behind where I live. This tree has long been my favourite in the area, and I waited a long time for a windy but clear spring day to get this shot of the tree and the observatory on IR film.
Yes, why not a rangefinder? It is by far the best travel option for this format. Are you concerned about close focus?
If focusing bothers you, you might consider a fixed lens fuji RF which has autofocus, i.e. the ga645Zi or similar. Or you might consider a pentax 645Nii or similar.
OMG that last one on flickr is hideous, sorry ;)
If you are interested in high-end handpainting, let me suggest you look at the work of Dead Link Removed (whom I 'discovered' in View Camera magazine).
I also fell in love with Sarah Moon's work in the past year and haven't seen anything else...
There is this lovely ignore user feature that has eliminated most of these unending back and forth things from my view... except when somebody quotes that ignored person, dammit!!!
I use a monopod whenever I can. A monopod also makes a great walking stick... or deterrent of assailants ;) To keep the 'pod light as air, I don't use a tripod head. I just screw directly into the camera. I use the same setup with an rb and an rz sometimes.
The thing about a monopod, with...
P.S. Okay, just checked good old wikipedia, there ar enow long wave IR imaging systems that can see out past 12 microns. Pretty incredible.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forward_looking_infrared
Well, people have done Schlieren photography with ordinary film for some time, and with that you can see thermal signatures from matches and bodies and such. But it is not direct thermal imaging.
What photographers call infrared is what the scientific world calls near-infrared or even extended...
I have a D700 and I almost always focus it manually, except when light is too low. But I do use the focus confirmation quite a lot, and I also have a tendency to scale focus before anything else.
There are plenty of situations when I do "beat" the AF, no question about it. Particularly when...
Well if you want that then you should consider handpainting a b&w print. Otherwise you could run encaustic wax over a colour print.
That colour palette is very vibrant. The colours remind me of 64T (tungsten-balanced colour slide film) with studio lights. Notice the reduced colour palette...
Well done indeed!
RE: flare, always use a hood if you can. Let me suggest checking out the mamiya 645 and rb/rz hoods, they are collapsible plastic and come in various sizes. I never became fond of compendium shades, but these little plastic hoods do a nice job. If you can't get the right...
I certainly agree, for environmental portraiture (usually the most effective in my opinion), there are many successful approaches. Hell, I have seen EIR portraits that were hauntingly beautiful, and I've seen some x-processed portraits that were also quite amazing. But my comments were...
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