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I am still confused so I will just walk around in circles and mutter to myself. At least that way I will be talking to a more intelligent audience.

With age comes wisdom and reading glasses.

But finding the trimmed film corners in a changing bag is not much fun either.

So in addition to carrying my film camera and lenses you are recommending that I go out and buy a bulky dlsr to drag around as a light meter so I can have the (dis)honor of squinting at "histograms, blinkies & clipping"? WTF???

Well over 1,000 posts and still no new film.

The OP is in a target rich environment searching for a replacement rangefinder. But being in a target rich environment is not always good, for example George Custer in Little Big Horn with the Seventh Cavalry.

Accidentally a roll of Tri-X got into a UltraColor box and a roll of film shot in Kauai turned out to be black & white.

Look at this url https://www.alanrossphotography.com/ under the Workshop heading. I have attended one of Alan's workshops in Yosemite. Quite useful and interesting.

Enjoy

Selenium toning the thin negative can help but only with what is already in the negative. It cannot bring detail that is not already there.

When I was shown a grain focuser, it became much easier to focus much faster and sharper.

Water spots are more a function of ones local water. It the water causes spots then one should consider PhotoFlo or other surfactant.

Good enlarger lenses are generally cheaper than good camera lenses, so why the fuss?

I prefer Nikon AF slrs such as the N75, N90, and F100 for my 35mm photography.

I use enlarger lenses for the enlarger. They are better designed for the enlarger as mentioned in post #6.

I like the Sekonic L308 because it has reflectance and incident readings in f/stops and EVs. I use a Pentax Digital Spot Meter for stop meter readings.

I have not commented on the Leica rangefinders, although I like the M Leicas better than the Leica III, because I prefer Nikon slr AF cameras for 35mm photography.

So that keeps you from listing toward port or starboard, right?

I have never used the Hasselblad in a studio, mostly hand held and only on a tripod when I use the 500mm lens, the 500mm lens plus the 2XE extender, or low level light exposures less than 1/30 second. So yes the Hasselblad can be carried around and used. I do not find it slow, but a 35mm AF...

The top of the line MF camera with lenses, parts and service is Hasselblad. The Rollei slr cameras are great but it is harder to find lenses since much fewer were sold and service can be hard to get. Both have removable film backs so that one can change film midroll or quickly swap when...

Red 25 and Red 29 will give black skies.

No Ektachrome. There was a time that Kodakchome in the late 1960's gave muddy skies.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

That is a great way to put crescent arcs on the film. That will provide more problems to post on Photrio.

Don't! Use PhotoFlo as directed, not peeing some into the water, hang the film, then take a paper towel and draw off the water from the bottom corners of the film. Keep fingers on your hands and off the film. Use squeegees on windows not film.

NO especially if you are shooting slides do not meter the sky EVER, let the sky land where it falls. Only 50 years of shooting slides went into this post. Besides Ektachrome gives us the blue skies we remember, not necessarily as they were.

Magenta on a thin negative will just produce a very dark flat print. Do not bother to waste your time with the magenta filter for a thin negative. Now read post #2 again.

In fewer words do not meter with the sky in the meter's field of view.

I have had this problem which is frustrating. I make test strips with different levels of Yellow filtering from the lowest level to higher levels. That will tell me how much Yellow is needed to get the exposure. Magenta will just make it darker overall and not separate the close contrasts.