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But in reality it is a Hotel California, you can check out at any time, but you cannot leave! :laugh:

XTOL and replenished XTOL with most of the developing done with the latter. It provides better shadow detail, finer grain and better sharpness than the other developers. Plus the tonality is better and I have found that the developer is the most forgiving developer that I have every used...

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I too like to stock up one films especially recently discontinued film and keep those films from the hoarders. ;)

Ditto

I have not found that to be the case. Often it is too much. Ilford HP5+ and FP4+ require one minute added to the 20°C [68°F] time for the negative to be thick enough to use.

What is the technical term for a janitor at Chernobyl? Mop & Glow

Yes, but it is harder to print in a darkroom and there is no shadow detail and so no depth. Just very flat. That is not good for most compositions.

Probably not. Must be based on what someone had for breakfast. A thin negative does not have data and that data can never be retrieved. Expose and develop film normally.

Exactly. Nothing complicated going on.

The only stupid question is the one that was not asked. None of us was born knowing all about photography, so if you have a question, just ask it.

Any three colors can be used to obtain any color. Red Yellow Blue are called the Primary Colors. In graphic arts, projection, computer science and the printing industry Red Green Blue are used for technical and practical reasons. No right or wrong, just conventions.

It is a personal choice. I prefer not to risk loosing a photograph just to save some money. For others, they might not have a choice.

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That has been the experience of many here who had this or related problems and reported those experiences on Photrio.

I do it properly. It is not rocket science. My standards meet the requirements to hand chemistry and photography expected by Kodak. If you want to expend more effort, that is your decision and that is your personal business.

I would if I had hands on experience with your camera, but I do not make any recommendations about equipment that I do not have significant hands on experience.

I agree. He is probably checking his heart rate.

No suggestions from me, but let me be the first to say Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

I will either wait until I have developed six rolls or just start replenishing from the start. I prefer the former, but I have had no noticeable problems with the latter. Replenished XTOL is very forgiving.

I think it is a plumbing and vent problem.

One could add a big arrow in FauxTow$hop.

I found that the accordion bottle leaking air too easily. I use StopLossBags. See StopLossBags.com

Very forgiving. Instead of waiting to develop several rolls before starting replenishment, I just replenish starting at the first roll and that has never been a problem.

Replenishing is easy. The change is speed loss is so small it is not worth noting. My hazardous waste disposal is near by. If "taking old chemicals to my local hazmat is even bigger pain in the ass" you should take your film to be processed by someone who cares about the environment. The...

I have not had enough drift to matter. I do not use control strips.

Red, Green and Blue are used in our retinas and television screens but Red, Yellow and Blue are the primary colors.

Use the Kodak published development times for replenished XTOL. Those times are close the the 1:1 times interestingly.

I have used replenished XTOL in low volumes and I have never had a problem with it. It is always exactly as it should be when one follows the replenishment with 70ml per roll and stick the the replenishment development times.

Would it help to plug the sous vide in backwards? 🙃