I agree, but I am happier with the very capable and lighter F100. Before someone posts about the F100 door latch, note that I do not use any of my cameras as hammers.
I love the way Leica M series cameras feel when advancing the film and firing the lens but the rangefinder drawbacks have kept...
Correct, to understand the measured value in situ one would need to derive the Thévenin equivalent circuit.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%C3%A9venin's_theorem
I was told to do that by a coworker amateur photographer decades ago. I found that that worked better for me and I still do it when I work with a changing bag. Part of the reason it works with a changing bag is that nothing in the room can distract me.
My long time girl friend was the first non-engineer woman I met that called screwdrivers, flathead and Phillips instead of '+' and '-'. Also when we go off roading and a vehicle gets in a precarious position she pulls out a large pad a paper and sketches a free body diagram and proceeds to...
I plan on using the 28mm to 300mm zoom, no vibration control or the 150mm to 600mm zoom with or without the 2X extender and vibration control. Both lenses are F lenses so I will not be able to use the in body vibration control :mad:. I am planning to use one lens or the other with minimum or no...
I think that you should be compensated in some form for your time and work. You will have to have a conversation with your friends to see how people feel and what can be worked out for mutual satisfaction.
Since the weight of the lens can dominate the weight of 35mm or MF bodies the concept of chest harnesses to carry the camera and lens with the lens pointing down and yet allowing the camera to be raised to ones eye in either landscape or portrait position is appealing. One example can be found...
Borrowed from the film threads:
In the last 24 hours:
David Busch's NIKON Z7 II/Z6 II Guide to Digital Photography, David Busch, rockynook
ProGrade Digital Gold Series 256GB CFexpress Type-B 2.0 Memory Card, 2-Pack
Lexar GOLD Series Professional 1800x 256GB UHS-II SDXC Memory Card, 2-Pack...
I agree and I have used Skylight 1A filters since the 1960's to slightly warm Kodachrome and Etkachrome film and protection. More recently I have switched to KR 1.5 Skylight filters.
I never prewash the film while it is in storage. I do prewash most films when developing because I have found, following others' advice, that prewashing improves the development consistency and has never, for me, increased fog.
I shoot at box speed and when appropriate I adjust the exposure for shadow detail using the Zone System and for any filter corrections. I eschew the automatic ISO reduction.
I agree. If the camera has problems then have it CLA'd. I was pointing out that a used camera that has an unknown provenance may need to be CLA'd and so I always account for that when buying one unless it comes from KEH because if needed they will provide it.
The point was that solutions that are basic react with the lipids in the finger skin and turn into soap yielding the "soapy" or slippery feeling. Biochemistry, not Photochemistry.
Still available: 13mm/15mm/16mm Nikon Rear Bayonet filter NOS O56 Orange filter in the original box for $45US including US shipping. All other countries, inquire.
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