I think these figures will help @GP3 Offical Account to have a clear idea on where to set the pricing for GP3 so it can remain competitive. I would expect them to adjust the price point; as @Cholentpot said, the Chinese are king (and very successful) in doing business negotiations.
To complement that information: CatLABS X 80 rolls have a "SHANGHAI" label on the end-of-roll paper. There is a picture here:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/catlabs-x80-and-shanghai-gp3-same-film.174939/#post-2276560
@GP3 Offical Account
Click the link and you'll see.
If I could start again, I would have bought less Nikon gear and more Pentax gear.
Consider also the Pentax KM. I had a KX and the thing i didn't like was the meter switch. While the KM has a simpler circuit that doesn't require to be turned on or off (it does it automatically by turning itself...
Who are Nik and Trick? Is this the name of a store? Do they ship internationally? (Royal Mail ships to my country with flying colours, in fact i frequently buy from the UK just for this reason -- excellent mail service.)
Yes, but it appears you could use the 120 start mark as well. From bronica ETRSi back service manual, the adjustment of the start mark position section; i infer the position is more or less similar.
Yes, it's highly likely that Foma did the conversion for Arista using certain stock A, and now Foma sells rolls using a newer stock B.
Sounds possible.
And also sounds natural that Foma would like to distnace a bit from Arista, if it's made from some older stock.
Ha, ha, ha...
Yet the datasheet for Foma 100 (or 400?) says the film markings will say "ULTRA"... (which is what Arista EDU Ultra film say on the edge markings...)
QED.
Typical community managers that don't know their product in depth...
Which gets us back to my main point -- film's MTF being an important part of the equation. Tech pan had an exceptional resolution and an exceptionally good MTF response. Here it is:
Compare with, for example, Fomapan 100, for an example of a "regular" film. Just a rough comparison since we...
Yes, that's what i didn't like about the C220: the right-side button. The front/corner button is better, and when combined with the other one, even easier.
You could use 120 paper too, as long as the leader is of the correct length (which is more or less similar to the length of the 120 paper up to the part where the film kicks in)
No, the Canon F-1 uses no variable resistors that move with the shutter speed dial or aperture dial. That is, no variable resistors that move frequently under normal use. Thus, they don't have any "resistor wear down" problem, which is indeed present on some Nikon F2 cameras, all Nikkormats and...
Yes, but consider that the ME is an electronic camera. When it fails, it fails abruptly you'll have an almost non-working camera, save for the 1/125 and B speeds.
You can try removing the rings around the side buttons. They unscrew by applying friction (i.e. with a rubber). Then you can remove the plastic buttons and try pressing down with screwdrivers. But you'll need four hands to remove the prsim!!
EDIT; or you can simply not dissasemble anything...
This part broke probably because some hard object impacted it. If this was a metal part, it would have bent the axle and you would have a non working camera and a very hard repair.
Being a plastic part, it just chips off and doesn't do further damage. And the camera can keep working.
Now, if...
This requires a full stripdown. I repair cameas but i don't dare dissasembling my beloved New F-1s. They are far more complex to strip down than most other cameras. The service manual is the longest 35mm SLR service manual i've read!!
Now, the camera should be able to transport film just fine...
Can you fully depress the pins that release the hooks that keep the prism in position? I mean the two pins/buttons at the side of the prism. If the hooks don't clear the path of the rails, you won't be able to slide it off.
The rails are smooth, chrome plated metal so i can't see any other...
No. You need to also dissasemble, clean and relube the helical. The focus wheel alone isn't enough. And dropping solvents near pieces where there are glued optical elements, isn't a good idea.
The focusing system isn't very complex to disassemble. The shutter is also not difficult or complex --...
If he positions the enlarger with its back towards him, the focusing knob will be at the left. And depending on the column, if the column is narrow then it won't be too bothersome to operate the enlarger.
I own a Durst M670 Color and it has a huge, wide focusing knob. I think a left handed...
Careful, every ME and ME Super out there, that has not went through servicing, will require service so it works reliably. Specifically to the mirror mechanism, and cleaning (and adjusting) of the timing switches around the mirror box. Once you do that it is a very reliable machine. If you don't...
Exactly, it is the combination of the above (which also takes into account the lower amount of magnification required). Note that the MTF of the enlarging lens also gets into the "system" equation giving further advantage to the bigger format.
So well, answering what's the "motivation for...
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