Dear Paul,
I fear for your life. Put your bulletproof vest on before making such a statement here.
And I fully support your claim.
Best regards,
A friend.
Surely you can, at least with the RB67 which has a mirror governor to slow down the mirror speed. I have done shots even as low as 1/4, handheld, with good results.
The Hasselblads, i can't comment, i don't really care for them.
I had a mint Pentax 67. Shutter shake was too much. Handheld, even at 1/60 and 1/125 you could get motion-induced blur that robbed the image of the high quality detail medium format should be used for.
The Mamiya RB67 had none of this issue and could be used down to even 1/15 with confidence...
Umm this is very... interesting. The MTF curves for the Kodak C41 and E6 films showed the C41 films in general being of higher MTF than the same-speed E6 films. And Ron Mowrey (RIP) explained why this happened -- basically thanks to more freedom on the C41 films for adding interlayer effects...
I think it's even simpler than that -- i guess Kodak has some master rolls of VR films there, frozen since years ago, and simply sells them to Lomo which then converts them into 120 or 35mm in China.
Are you sure Inoviscoat or "another "company in germany can't convert? TURA AG used to do conversion for lots of films in germany. I'd guess there is another company there in germany doing the conversion,.
A WORKING Kodak Ektra?! WOW...
Would love to have one.
Funny stuff, "fotón" is slang for "big photograph" or "great picture" in spanish. Also means "photon" as well.
Rusted things are a bad sign -- things can be rusted at the interiror and this isn't a good thing. If said M3 "went for a swim" that means massive rust ,and yes, this means very bad things.
It depends on the particular camera, because some are very easy to work on (i.e. Mamiya RB67) and others are a nightmare (i.e. Canon New F-1, which I don't dare to service).
But even me, who still needs to acquire more and more practice, can strip down a Pentax ME, do whatever is needed and...
I became a part-time camera technician not so long ago.
Out of necessity, since the good camera techs here retired, and I got left only the bad (terrible!) camera tech.
Since i have 25+ cameras and 50+ lenses, I had to take charge of these matters.
Here's the LIDICOLSET, take a deep look:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133677854971?hash=item1f1fd230fb:g:8f0AAOSwMDJgOq26
Essentially you need the LIDIBOX 667, because you probably already have a negative carrier
Here's a cheaper LIDICOLSET...
BINGO!! Read!!
https://www.planker.dk/Sale/durst_M_370.pdf
This is for your enlarger, M370 Color:
Yes, it uses the same SIVOPAR, SIXMA, etc accesories as the M670 for the negative carrier, but a different diffusor. You need a LIDICOLSET 66 as difussor.
- Maybe he has the BW head
- Even with the color head, it uses a diffusor and, at least on my M670, there are two-sized diffusors, so you need the one for medium format if you want to print MF.
By simple googling at your enlarger and looking at pictures of it, i wouldn't be surprised if the negative holders for my M670 fit your M370 with no problem at all.
I'm not sure what do you mean with "masks", what you switch is the negative holder.
Same question as above, which time did you use? temperature? agitation?
The recommendation for using EI 250 or 320 is due to Fomapan's own datasheet, which is unusually detailed. It shows real speed is aprox. 250 using a classic developer like D76, or 320 on a speed-enhancing developer...
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.